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this might sound silly but i gotta ask. how do you know when the to-be-treated object is hot enough. the instructions say 120 but is that just a 'close enough' number? can you tell by how it flows?



Hi Everyone,

I'm seeing a lot of great questions about RPM. I'll try and give the short version on a couple I have seen.

1. How hot does the part need to be?
We recommend above 120 degrees. After you practice on a test piece you'll find the ratio of heat to product flowing.When the part is warmed you will notice that RPM flows when applied. I use a heat gun but we have people who have used hair dryers, ovens, radiant heat, even putting the part out in the sun during the summer. I don't recomment torches or flame type heat since we don't need the part glowing red and most flames will leave residue and soot. On large pieces you can work in sections. We treated the driveshaft by heating about a 12-18 inch section and working from one end to the other. Remember always wear appropiate protection when handling warmed parts. Don't forget adequate ventilation.

2. Painting over RPM.
Most paint manufacturers recommend natural clean surfaces for adhesion. If you oiled a part then tried to paint over it you wouldn't get great results. Even painting some paints over other paints isn't satisfactory ( laquer vs enamel).

3. RPM over paint.
RPM will provide an additional layer of protection. As pointed out above sometimes you see corrosion on painted parts. I recently treated a K-Frame on a late model builder project for additional protection. Most paints will withstand the normal heat range that you use to apply RPM

All great questions. Thanks for everyone passing on their own personal techniques.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.