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If your main caps are still installed w/ bolts rather than studs, I don't think there is anything you can do that will just bolt on to increase the bottom end reliability.

Not being a machinist, I'm curious why you need to have the main caps align honed when switching from bolts to studs, considering the caps fit into the main registers and the hardware is just there to strap 'em down. Yeah, I know, that's an over-simplified view... but still.



The reason studs typically change the bore is because they use more of the threads in the block than bolts do. It doesn't always happen, but is a good idea to check. I'm not a believer in stud girdles that don't touch the center of the cap. The crank is trying to push the cap down and it tends to oblong the bearing cap. Having a girdle does nothing to stop this unless it's actually pressing against the cap in the center. This is why splayed caps work so well on engines that can use them. The bolts pre stress the caps by pulling them in a direction different than the direction the crank is trying to push them.