the r/r for the accumulator & heater core went well as it only took me8hrs. yesterday and 4 1/2 hrs today. however, now the dash cluster seems screwed up. the gages [temp and gas only] don't work, and the odometer & shift indicator don't light up with the #'s that are 'spossed to be there....... i haven't driven the bus yet, but i; almost certain the speedo won't work either. also, the idiot lites for the door ajar, low fuel, etc. that are on the bottom of the cluster don't light. there is only one plug for the back of the cluster and it ony has 7 wires in it. they are as follows :bottom row : black[ground] m/t slot, red w/white tracer[12.47v key on only], purple[2.47v key on and off both], white w/black tracer[2.47v key on and off both] m/t slot, black[ground]
top row : orange[11.57v lites on only], m/t space, m/t space, m/t space, pink [12.52v key on & off both], m/t space.
it looks like i got power TO the cluster, but the cluster don't work. it worked fine before i tore it apart for the ac condenser & heater core r&r , so i know it was a good one. what am i missing ? how can i bench test the cluster ? the battery was disconected, and i didn't have to force any connections apart ; no corrosion either...... thanks in advance ! i need to keep what hair i got........

anyone in the late nite group ?

bump for the day shift.........

The cluster gets all it`s info over the bus (the 2 wires with 2.47V) Honestly it is going to be tough without a scan tool (real one NOT a code reader) to see what is going on as there are far to many variables not knowing what all you took apart, or more to the point, maybe unnecessarily took apart
Make sure you have all the connectors back on the body control module if you removed them before you go too far.

Rick

so hopefully, i just have an unhooked connection or two ? i have an OTC enhanced monitor 4000 scan tool. what should i be looking for on it, or what testing should it be doing ? i don't think the cluster should have taken a dump just unplugging it from the harness. i'll check the bcm plugs to see if they got bumped.

I`m not even sure if aftermarket scan tools can do body stuff...but you need to see if you can access the BCM and the cluster to see if they are active on the bus, and have any communication faults.
For that matter..i`m curious, why did you even have the cluster out ?

Recheck both of the lower junction block connectors as you would have had them disconnected, the IP side connector of the body controller, and the 2 40 ways to the right of the steering column...I`m betting that something is not seated correctly or you pushed a terminal out when reconnecting.

I`m not trying to be difficult but I am just simply guessing here, I have no idea what all you took loose.
This is a 3 hour, maybe 4 hour on a bad day job and it is possible you took way more apart than needed if it took that long and something that is not normally touched is messed up.

Check the connectors first and go from there.

Good luck
Rick

I know the 1st Gen. Neons were touchy, a solder joint breaks or works loose. Maybe, this happened when you pulled the plug out? They are cheap to buy, maybe just pick up another at a yard? This would be a good time to convert it to the tach cluster option? Just plug and play!!!

rick, thanks for taking the time to try to help out here ! i followed the directions in a 1996 fsm for the removal of the heater/ac housing[my bus is a 2000, but i"think" the model years should be similar], and it said the cluster needed removed. i'm all for not taking more apart than necessary. in fact, the fsm said the wiper module needed removed as well as the alternator to access the retainer nuts for the assembly box and the heater hoses. i looked it over carefully, and determined that didn't need to happen, as it was very tight, but do-able if i was carefull. and it was, as i had very little trouble with those items. as to what i took loose, it was the upper dash cover[with the "message center"-this works correctly now after re-install] with the a pillar trim, the speaker/defrost tube cover, the heater ductwork[as attached to the heater/ac housing box], the passenger airbag[to get it out of the way-not a tough job], and the basic dash front parts[radio,consol trim, heat/ac controls,etc.], the cluster & trim [because it was in the way of the heater ductwork removal], plus the dash frame work/reinforcement pcs. as needed. i wish it wasn't that much, but i couldn't see any way out, as all that stuff is bolted/screwed into each other. i was very carefull when unplugging anything as to not damage the plug or component. as for the time it took, i work very slow due to health issues that prevent me from being very speedy. this could be why it took so long to do this job. plus the fact i didn't want to screw anything up - kind of a moot point in the fact that it doesn't work now........ i didn't get a chance to look at it yesterday, as i had a dr.'s appointment i forgot about. after coffee this morning, i'll try again, paying attention to the connection by the lower column, as i moved it some upon reassembly because i thought it was tight/rubbing the dash bracing upon re-assembly. i mite have pushed something out when i did that. i'm almost certain it's a connection problem, as there were no issues with the dash cluster before i got into this mess. magnumguy, i was real carefull unplugging the cluster because of the fragile nature of some solder joints. if i can't get this cluster to work again, and i replace it, i'll probably go with the tach cluster from a yard. i'll definately keep everyone updated, as this is a learning experiance for me [the "school of hard knocks"] and hopefully, this can be a helpful lesson to others who have [or want to] to do this repair themselves. in the meantime, any other ideas or tips will be GREATLY appreciated !!!!!!!!!

UPDATE.......... well, i spent ALL day checking out wiring, connections, plugs, etc. I'M LOST..... nothing seems out of the ordinary, or mis-installed/assembled. took the bus out for a drive, and as i expected, nothing on the cluster works. [along with anything having to do with the bcm- doorlocks, low fuel, cruise, etc.]GRRRRRR... i called everyone around here that MITE have a clue, and all came upwith ??????? , as they would have done exactly what i have already done, along with the suggestion[s] from rick. i hate to give up, but i need a bus and the "boss"[my loving wife ] won't have me use her car because she is afraid i will turn it into a "truck"[well, a guy needs a truck don't he ? ] anyway, i have a few[VERY few]bux i can use for a new bus, so i guess i'm looking for one . this bus runs good, but the body is starting to go - both rockers need replaced, and both sliding doors have the bottoms gone. oh, the gate has rust, and the hood is starting to go too........ BUT it RUNS so good.......
well, maybe it's time to just replace it ????
still looking for help.......

Eric
Along with the other symptoms, the key words here are "no door locks" this points straight to the body control module, pay close attention to both of the 40 ways on the bottom of the BCM, the IP side can be a bit tricky to get seated because it is so close to the carpet.

Rick

rick, i agree about the bcm. the funny thing about this is i didn't unplug or move the bcm ! the door locks work using the door switches, but the rolling lock feature doesn't work now. the cel came on with a "253" code#. my monitor only says : "see dealer" in the explaination page. it cleared that code ok, but now i got a "po743", which is tcc circuit. it cleared that too, and that lasted for a while, but it's back now, and won't clear. on my test drive, the trans shifted fine, and worked as it always did, so i'm not too concerned about the converter clutch. as to the ip side of the bcm, that's the one next to the kickpanel correct ? both of those plugs weren't touched, so i really can't see where the connection would be compromised. i guess i'll just unbolt the bcm from the fuse panel so i can really see the connections, and try that. are there any fuses that the cluster connection runs thru ? say , in the under hood junction block ? thanks again rick ! i'm not afraid to tackle any repair, but this thing is driving me nutz. eric