Car has had OD for several years, went EFI in early 2009:
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=119842.0

This is an abridged version of the nearly complete build from tmf:

been learning with that and learning to be a daddy since then. Now it's time to pressurize the intake. Going to use my turbocoupe T3 60 trim .63 a/r's and hope for a very responsive street car that doesn't choke too bad to 5000rpm. Will be using twin turbosmart 38's instead of any internal gates, both for packaging and for hopefully better control/less choking.

AF helps me get a good flange on the rv/van manifolds


Big Brown Truck


AF and Shaun got me out of a jam helping to bust the turbine housings free and get the broken off bolts out:



This update brought to you by the letter U


On the bracket for first test fit



Dang, that's higher than I expected it to be....


I made a very simple bracket that put the turbo in a great place in free space, but it's too high, the pipe from the mani would be right at the hood with it closed. This is with 3" radius 2.25" pipe.



It's almost like Plymouth thought a turbo should sit right there :2thumbs: But it looks like I may need to extend that cutout several inches further back. Also looks like I need to either cut and bend down or trim off some of the lower part of the inner well for the dp to get by the mani. To drop the turbo down it needs to go outboard to avoid the alternator (or I need to relocate the alt). I have room to swing the alt down and use a shorter belt, but I'm a little concerned about belt engagement then, esp if I keep the rv2, it gets tugged pretty hard. Outboard means enlarging that dimple in the well.

Might be able to switch to a 1.5" radius weld ell for the bend, starts to look a little frankenstein with pipe and ell though

Took the day off to work on the car....I'm a slow fabricator, not much to show for 5 hours of work. But, I didn't waste any metal, so that's something I guess.

time for a trim....the air hammer made quick work of it.





Alt may need to move to keep it from burning up. I've got blankets on the way, we'll see. AF and I looked at dropping it way down, but I'd need to redo all the belts then and get the waterpump and ps on the same belt.


was able to drop the turbo down 1.5" or so once I decided I was ok with cutting the well. I've got a couple spares at the shop if for some reason I would go back stock.

First suitcase handle


and as it turns out, room for the WG underneath



A couple questions about the WG, will the diaphragm live in there? I plan on wrapping both the 'handle' and the manifold. Is teeing off a 90* off the beginning of the 'handle' an ok spot? There's no room to go at less than 90*.

Started to look at the dp but ran out of time. Where the turbo is now makes it simpler though, it's ~1' straight shot then hopefully a 45* down and another to get out to the existing pipes.

Another day off work, a little more progress. Both dp's are now complete, but I need to spot weld them together and refit. Also need to add another v band into the driver's side one- in 1 piece it won't go in the car from the top or bottom. I think it would if I put the dp in first, then installed the manifold, then the turbo, but that's a real pain.





dr's side dp


bottom part of the pass dp


CASUALTY!!! Tape came loose on the dp just as I was pulling it up out of the car and chipped the paint. Ugh. There's 2 other chips on that side, and the paint was done in 1999, but it still sucks.


another day, some more mistakes :P


lowered feed pipe


cut a hole and then regretted it, routing the air around the wrong way. I will redo this


and do it like this


Was suggested to try it up here, there's room for it but I think I'd rather keep the package tight


So close to having the hot sides all done, hit a snag getting the driver's side dp aligned that kept me from getting the wg on that side done, but it's close. It all needs to be finish welded, painted, and wrapped of course.

Will this cook the alt with the blanket on?




Pass wg rerouted and wrong hole patched up




driver's side upper down pipe, had to split both down pipes (and of course not in between existing pieces, had to make more cuts to get them located in a place they fit and could be reached) as neither would install as 1 piece into the car from the top or bottom


driver's side lower down pipe




pass side down pipe


The driver's side wg is close, have both holes cut and both pipes cut, just need to do some more trimming to fit them. Then finish weld, including a few joints that need some gaps filled in. I had been hoping to make a May 22nd Mopar show about 10min from my house, not sure that's going to happen.....maybe without the sanden a/c conversion done and the pipes only welded, not painted and wrapped. Having not done and real welding for years, I'm finding myself to be very inconsistent. Some of the stuff I've done on this is very passable, some of it laughable :doh:

It's always great to see pics!

If you have a good blanket on (mine cost $200) you can put your hand on it and it will only feel warm.

Are those the turbos I sent you 30 or 40 years ago?

Personally, I would have kept the internal wastegates in the interest of simplicity. It would have made the installation much easier and cleaner.

Keep going. I plan on turbocharging the Imperial and need to know what not to do.

lookin' good!!

The blankets are from VSracing, popular vendor on tmf, affordable but supposed to be good.

Yes, they are those silly little turbos. The OEM Ford waste gates would have been even harder to install actually. The turbos would not have fit where I wanted them with the big arm and can off the side, and the tiny wg feed probably would not have done the job. The cast iron downpipe elbow assemblies also clocked everything all wrong. I did look at using some straight off wg actuators and dp flanges, but it was going to take a decent amount of work to fit those as well, and they would have been a performance compromise. So, I decided to spend the effort and money on the best performing solution, and one that I would not have to change if I find these turbos to be radically too small.

Like I said, keep going so I'll know what not to do.



It'll be so nice to learn the problems from someone else this time around.

gettin there.....





Hot sides are all done and ready to be finish welded, going to 'let' Shaun do that so that it looks decent and stays together.

Cold side is almost done, need to do 1 more 3" bend into the TB







Might try to find another turbocoupe outlet hose to put over the right pipe to make it look more symmetrical, will paint them all black as well. Got the oil feeds in and the drains mocked up. Still working on what to do with the alt, need to find some 1/4" stock to drop it and not worry about it deflecting. I'm ready to be done working on it and driving it instead :2thumbs:

Looks awesome, great cruiser.
How about some pics of the car?

That's a nice car. I think I have seen it at the Nats. I really like those two door 70/71 Furys.

Thanks! I've had it out to the nats twice

nice ride

Small pic, but it looks like you've got great taste too!

Pipes are finish welded and painted with 2000* paint. We were in Alaska for a couple weeks so I haven't been working on the car.

thanks i saved her from the junkyard bout ten years ago still wears original paisley top and paint.

quite of few of those gran coupes seem to have survived. I have one as a parts car, it got smucked in the front pretty hard, ruined the hideaway setup, but it's got 1 good fender, good doors, glass, most of the 1/4's, etc, so I keep it around as an insurance policy.

would'nt happen to have a paisley bench seat in good condition would you in a light brown

It has a bench, I'll have to look at it for condition though.

cool i would be very interested

Almost done, need 1 quick bracket for the charge tube running down low, figure out where to put the heater control valve and the coil. Of course the a/c lines need to be run and the inlet piping/filters, but it should run in a day or 2.

It runs.

Need to button a few things up, video soon.

Cool, but HOW does it run?

like most IC engines :P

I need to bleed the front brakes (removed the line lock for more room and shouldn't need it now) before I get too froggy with it. I did roll out into the culdasac and power brake till they spooled though, that was a fun sound. With all the gear this car has with the low gear OD it's hard to get it to spool before the wheels break loose though.

maybe a little cleaner pic


Took it around the block, I've got an exhaust leak on the dr's side, thought I found it with 1 of the v clamps slightly misaligned and the wg left a little loose, but still there. Barely any gas in it so I only went around the block, was able to build 1.9 psi at 1/2 throttle for 1 sec @ 2450rpm according to the log. Need to get some fuel so I can get out in a safer place to see what happens. Power braking won't build boost, the gear in the car makes it too easy to break them loose, don't need boost to do it

Even with the exhaust leak it does sound cool when it starts to spool. Makes some noise on closed throttle too- I don't have a BOV, figuring the 5psi I'm starting at with an auto should be safe? Lot of OEM cars run that way.

My poor heater control valve is seeping, it's been epoxied a bunch of times, trying to get it patched again. I do have a metal style one from a different application that might work.

looks nice
where did u get the merge pipe 2 into 1 to your t body thanks

Columbia River mandrel bends has that short v, I welded onto both ends.

where's the video lol would like to hear an see her in motion.

I need to figure out how to mount the camera for a fun shot, it's no big deal just idling in the driveway :P I do have a car dock for my phone but I'm not sure if the lens is covered when in it, I need to check.

Did you ever get the pics of the paisley benches that I sent you?

yes i did thanks. but they are a little worse than my original bench but i do apreciate it.cant wait to see the fury in action she's sweet

Ok, here's the video

http://youtu.be/0jYcPAGPB48

the exhaust leak is bad unfortunately and makes a lot of noise, will have to address that this winter. I didn't use gaskets, just copper RTV on the manifolds and I think that may have been a bad idea when the heads weren't checked for trueness.

The video is pretty close to WOT, it kicks down so that's deceiving, but it does seem to run pretty hard It hit 6.7psi at one point on my 5psi springs, will have to keep an eye on that. . Got to a little over 5.6psi at 4500rpm and 75% duty cycle. I don't know if my regulator is uping the psi, I need to attach my gauge on my braided hose so I can see it while driving temporarily.

I thought I broke it on the full boost run I did after the video, lost the boost gauge and it started running like crap. Luckily it was only the vac line that blew off.

This is definitely addicting

So far my impression is these turbos are NOT too small for this application. It's so eager to downshift it's hard to tell, but giving it a 1/2 throttle squeeze in drive brings on the boost pretty quick, but it is not instant or light switch. It feels just like I'd want it to really, so it may all turn out quite well. Because of the downshift it's hard to tell yet where the boost threshold is, but it seems to be somewhere around 2200-2400.

I did weld in a bung to do back pressure testing, I want to do that this fall as well to see where it's at.

Get it up to a speed where the transmission takes a hard jab to kick down to second gear and roll into the throttle. You'll feel how the boost comes in. It's interesting to feel your rate of acceleration, well, accelerate as boost builds.

The hot rod was about as tight as reasonable on a street car. About 1/4" of throttle at 60 mph in 3rd gear would build boost and I'd be close to 90 mph by the time I got around the truck I was passing.

You can also lock it down in 1st gear and see where the boost builds. That's a bit deceiving because the gear multiplication doesn't load the engine as hard and it revs easily.
When doing that, the hot rod would start making boost by 2800 rpm and the car would be sideways by 3200 rpm.

This car is no 700hp freak, but it's a pretty satisfying drive right now


I can be rolling about 10mph in 1st, nail it, and after a 1-2sec the turbos will spool and it will boil the tires, which is the kind of shananagins I was hoping for. Will be interesting to get to a track next year, it certainly drives like a 'big' 440 now but with the mellow little 383 the rest of the time. If I can eventually drop down into a smaller cam and add more boost I'll be quite happy.





Took it out for probably the last tuning session of the year. Moved to 26* timing under boost and was able to cleanly run it up to 5000rpm, about 80% duty cycle, so there's still some room, especially with my plans to add water over the winter, should be able to run 12:1 or 12.5:1 a/f under boost.


Back pressure testing

at 5-6psi
under 3500rpm back pressure stayed below 2:1
~4000rpm 3:1
~5000rpm 4:1

these turbos are very responsive on the street but the are definitely choking it up top. Seat of the pants rev time from 4-5000rpm is not that great. Maybe stage III wheels would be enough? Probably time to call a professional now that I have data....

[you NEED a Bov! thats why it popped when you went on/off the throttle, could very easy bend throttle blade in the TB, cool build!

Ya, in theory this build shouldn't have required one, lots of OEM systems at this level don't, but in practice this one does. At lower speed WOT to idle the engine completely falls apart like all the vacuum lines were blown off. I'll be adding the BOV this winter.

"should be able to run 12:1 or 12.5:1 a/f under boost."

I suggest running it no more than 12:1 a/f under boost.

Short, and with the car just in drive as I didn’t have a hand to shift and hold my phone :P Had to feather the throttle in the one of course which caused upshifts.

http://youtu.be/8xRVnuzum0o

http://youtu.be/KvAUD-9BJLU