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Go to HUGHES ENGINES .COM they have a tech sheet you can click on

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I should have been more clear in my original post. I am going by their instructions titled "Rocker arm gemoetry and pushrod length for custom pushrods". It is quite a long process, although it is accounting for rocker geometry as well. I have already checked for that and I am good to go However, in the article they are using a checking spring, and they don't mention anything different in the procedure if using hydraulic lifters and no checking spring

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What the hell are ya doin' ?!?!

Checker springs don't even come in to play here.

1) get a lifter on the base circle
2) install a head with gasket and cinch down
3) install one rocker on a shaft and cinch down
4) if rocker is adjustable, set adjuster so 2 threads are showing
5) install checker pushrod and adjust until only the slack is taken up between the lifter and adjuster - do this by "feel", don't tighten so much as to compress the lifter.

You're done.

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LOL im just doing what the Hughes tech sheet says since im using their 1.6 rockers and I have never done this before

I am using their 1.6 adjustable rockers, and in their tech sheet it says nothing about adjuster thread length, just to set the adjusting screw so that the ball is protruding .450" from the rocker body (smallblock LA spec)

My lifter was only compressing and bottoming out as I was turning the motor over so as to check rocker geometry and pushrod length like the article says...The method you posted seems to be pretty easy compared to what they are saying though. In the method you posted, how do I account for lash? please go easy on me, im just learning this stuff as I go

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With a hydraulic lifter, my rule of thumb is to set it up for the lifter to be compressed between 0.010-0.030". This requires a lot of care to make sure that distance is from just touching zero lash.

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I used a solid lifter. And I set my lash at zero.

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Like my original post says, I don't have access to a solid lifter, which is why I was thinking about shimming up an empty hydraulic lifter..plus my hydraulic lifter is a roller which is taller than a standard solid lifter, although your method would make my life alot easier lol

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I like to use a preload of 1/4 turn ( sorry I can't remember exactly what tha is in thousands of an inch - probably around .015" )

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From what I remember their method is kinda long and drawn out - they tried to make it rocket science . The 2 threads showing thing is probably about the same as their .450". You can't use a hydraulic lifter ( even if it's filled with oil and/or you are using a light spring. I use a "checking lifter" that has the push rod plunger replaced with one that can be screwed up and down. You can do the same thing with a junk Hydraulic lifter as you said. Fill it with washers until you get the height you want - which will be the same as the lifters you will be using less what ever preload you want to use. I run a large ( over .6" ) hyd flat tappet cam. I took my adjustable lifter and set it beside the lifter I will be using. Put pushrods in both lifters. Adjusted my checker lifter so that both pushrods were the same height. I like to use a preload of 1/4 turn ( sorry I can't remember exactly what tha is in thousands of an inch - probably around .015" ) . That way if I accidentally pump them up ( over rev ), I don't bend stuff. You will have to use what ever your cam MFG recommends or what ever and fill your checking lifter with junk until you get to the stock height, less what ever preload you want to run. Hope this helps.

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thanks for the info! I kinda figured the Hughes method was a bit of overengineering, but it didnt hurt to use their method to atleast get my rocker geometry correct. I don't think my cam card had a spec for preload/lash on it but i will double check.

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My lifter was only compressing and bottoming out as I was turning the motor over so as to check rocker geometry and pushrod length like

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My lifter was only compressing and bottoming out as I was turning the motor over so as to check rocker geometry and pushrod length like

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A-HA ! Now I understand ... I didn't realize you were checking the geometry too!

As for the "adjuster protruding .450", that's pretty much what I was getting at with the "two threads showing" statement.

Anyhow,, you don't need to use the lifter/pushrod to check geometry - with the checker springs installed you can just move the rocker through its approximate amount of travel by hand and watch the geometry.

Here's a tip that I just discovered while checking my own about a half hour ago ... check BOTH intake and exhaust (in case they have different base circles like mine has!!)

I wouldn't worry about lash or preload - that's a minimal amount that can be taken up by the adjuster, .010" is not an amount to be worried about.

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My lifter was only compressing and bottoming out as I was turning the motor over so as to check rocker geometry and pushrod length like

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A-HA ! Now I understand ... I didn't realize you were checking the geometry too!

As for the "adjuster protruding .450", that's pretty much what I was getting at with the "two threads showing" statement.

Anyhow,, you don't need to use the lifter/pushrod to check geometry - with the checker springs installed you can just move the rocker through its approximate amount of travel by hand and watch the geometry.

Here's a tip that I just discovered while checking my own about a half hour ago ... check BOTH intake and exhaust (in case they have different base circles like mine has!!)

I wouldn't worry about lash or preload - that's a minimal amount that can be taken up by the adjuster, .010" is not an amount to be worried about.

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Unfortunately I don't have a checking spring available, so I would technically have to shim up my lifter...But my geometry is good

thanks for all the help everybody! Gonna tackle this tommorow so i can get those pushrods ordered and finally button up the rest of this motor

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The engine is an LA with a bone stock bottom end...

I got the pushrods all measured up today, but ran into bigger issues...the intake valve on the heads is deep into the piston, so it looks like im going to be making a piston fly cut tool with the old heads and putting notches into the stock pistons...kinda worried though as to how thick these pistons are

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First... what is the cam installed at and what is the
LSA.... as to the geometry of the rockers... the
push rod dosent change that... you need to raise
or lower the rocker shaft to do that