Re: ignition trouble
[Re: asesino]
#960183
03/27/11 11:05 PM
03/27/11 11:05 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,861 albany ny
05dakota
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,861
albany ny
|
Quote:
Quote:
Check Ballast resistor.
thanks have a MSD somebody have the diagram for the solenoid?
sounds like the small red wire going to the MSD doesnt get power when cranking.
|
|
|
Re: ignition trouble
[Re: asesino]
#960187
03/29/11 09:55 PM
03/29/11 09:55 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606 Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
|
I admit I'm having trouble understanding you, but I don't speak Spanish. Your picture, I think was meant to be the firewall / fender mounted "starter relay" like this: If the starter works, that relay is OK It is not clear to me if you have spark when cranking? On your ignition, you have TWO separate circuits from the key (ignition switch) The DARK BLUE going to the coil resistor has 12V power when the key is in "run" and feeds power through the resistor to the coil The BROWN going to the side of the resistor which feeds the coil is the "bypass" circuit and feeds power ONLY when the key is twisted to "start."
|
|
|
Re: ignition trouble
[Re: RapidRobert]
#960189
03/30/11 01:55 AM
03/30/11 01:55 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606 Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
|
Quote:
Quote:
The DARK BLUE going to the coil resistor has 12V power when the key is in "run" and feeds power through the resistor to the coil.
You have an 'open" in this run (ign1) circuit from the ign sw to the bulkhead then out to and thru the ballast. The relay is the pic is not the prob.
!!! NO !!! Other way around. He has an open in IGN2, the bypass circuit (brown)
|
|
|
Re: ignition trouble
[Re: asesino]
#960191
03/30/11 09:52 AM
03/30/11 09:52 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
|
Quote:
Hi, i want know why my charger doesn't start until i release the key?? thanks
El sintoma para esta falla esta en el circuito de "bypass" de la resistencia, teniendo o no la resistencia.
Nuestros vehiculos tienen dos puntos de alimentacion al sitema del motor. la Ignicion 1 que es la que opera regularmente y alimenta todo el motor y normalmente marcado con el cable azul. Este sistema alimenta la resistencia que varia el nivel de alimentacion de acuerdo a la temperatura del motor a la bobina para evitar recalentamiento. A medida que el motor esta mas caliente, la chispa requiere menos energia para encender la gasolina y de alli es que la resistencia de acuerdo a la temperatura pues disminuye el nivel de energia a la bobina, evitando que una energia constante la recaliente sin necesidad.
SIN EMBARGO, para el momento de arrancar el motor ( ign 2 ) si es recomendable maxima energia, y de alli el cable MARRON que llega a la resistencia, pasa por encima de esta para alimentar directamente la bobina con los 12 Voltios completos.
Si el vehiculo arranca al soltar la llave es que el circuito de ign 2 esta fallando y solo esta siendo alimentado en el momento de la ign 1.
La falla puede estar en el switche de encendido o en el conector maestro de la pared de fuego estando un poco flojo o sucio, o alguna seccion de estos cables rotos... este cable es de color marron y calibre 14
Aunque tienes MSD me imagino que para alimentar el cable rojo delgado que es el "trigger" que enciende el modulo usaste uno de estos dos metodos:
-Cable que alimenta el positivo de la bobina ( ya sea marron para modelos posteriores al 70 o azul en modelor previos al 70 ) unido a este cable rojo delgado del MSD
-Eliminacion de la resistencia y uniste tanto cables azul y marron que llegaban a la resistencia, provenientes de la cabina del vehiculo al cable delgado rojo del MSD
En ambos casos, el cable marron de Ign2 esta teniendo falla de alimentacion, perdiendo poder mientras el motor arranque esta operando
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
|
|
|
Re: ignition trouble
[Re: Yancy Derringer]
#960194
03/30/11 03:04 PM
03/30/11 03:04 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 146 Nuevo leon,mexico,Monterrey
asesino
OP
member
|
OP
member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 146
Nuevo leon,mexico,Monterrey
|
Quote:
I admit I'm having trouble understanding you, but I don't speak Spanish. Your picture, I think was meant to be the firewall / fender mounted "starter relay" like this:
If the starter works, that relay is OK
It is not clear to me if you have spark when cranking?
On your ignition, you have TWO separate circuits from the key (ignition switch)
The DARK BLUE going to the coil resistor has 12V power when the key is in "run" and feeds power through the resistor to the coil
The BROWN going to the side of the resistor which feeds the coil is the "bypass" circuit and feeds power ONLY when the key is twisted to "start."
Yes, yes yes that's it the part to i try to say, I search it in google like a starter relay, but never appears, and then i think:... well i must be wrong in my translate ...f#"@% google..... i think the problem must be there, some wire don't be work, because the previously owners change the wires of the bulkhead and now have other the colors, i must will check wire by wire to find wich wire don't work and change it. but i need to know how is the function of every plug of the starter relay, the big screw goes to starter, and the middle goes to the small screw of the starter, but the last two small's plugs, i don't know where they go. in a digram to i have indicates one of them goes to the motor windshield or the wiper, i don't remeber, but i think it's very strange. well i hope you understand me guys, thanks for all your answers, tomorrow will upload some pics
xASESINOx
|
|
|
|
|