Which intake should I use for my build?
#937676
02/26/11 01:51 AM
02/26/11 01:51 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,929 Tri-Cities, Washington
VITC_GTX
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OP
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Tri-Cities, Washington
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I have a 383 with stock compression (measured at low 8's to 1). I plan on putting it together with only the parts I have (no buying any parts). I have three camshafts and have chose to use the big Summit cam (specs below). I want this engine for street driving only. Something for a daily driver. I will run headers, a 750 vacuum secondary Holley with 3.23's in an auto.
Question is, I only have two intakes; a Torker and stock iron manifold. Was leaning towards the stock manifold but didn't know if I would just be fooling myself or not. What do you think?
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet Basic Operating RPM Range 2,000-5,500 Duration at 050 inch Lift 224 int./234 exh. Advertised Duration 282 int./292 exh. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.465 int./0.488 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees) 114
Last edited by VITC_GTX; 02/26/11 02:03 AM.
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Re: Which intake should I use for my build?
[Re: VITC_GTX]
#937677
02/26/11 02:44 AM
02/26/11 02:44 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
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master
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Aurora, Colorado
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Had a simular combo 383 (around 1991), and it was pretty much a compromise all the way around. My biggest mistake was using the stock torque converter. The cam (pretty much the same 0.050 duration as yours) killed off too much low end torque, and with the stock converter it was slow off the line. Midrange power was good, but not alot of high end power either. I would shift at 5,800-6,000 RPM. I ran the stock ('71) intake first, and it was decent for the combination. I then used a Weiand Action Plus, and din't notice any real difference over the stock intake. Then I installed a Weiand single plane (maybe a Team G) which only slightly helped the upper RPM range, but made low end torque worse. Anyhow, changing out intakes on a big block is pretty easy. I'd start off with the stock intake, at least all the stock linkage will work with it. If you have the funds, get a good hi-stall torque converter (2,800+ RPM) to hide the low end power loss.
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Re: Which intake should I use for my build?
[Re: ireland383]
#937680
02/26/11 09:37 AM
02/26/11 09:37 AM
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,648 GA
Boosted
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I would use the aluminum one. Looks better, runs cooler, is lighter and as you said this is a street only motor...
Trying to squeeze 10lb more tq out of the motor is not that big of a deal on the street.. I would invest in a good converter for that.. Something like the 10" street fighter from TCI...
2011 RAM3500
1967 Fastback Barracuda with some go fast goodies.
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Re: Which intake should I use for my build?
[Re: BSB67]
#937682
02/26/11 09:50 AM
02/26/11 09:50 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
I think the stock intake will be better.
I would reconsider your cam choice. Short stroke, low compression, slow moving/large adv. duration cam - makes for very soft bottom end power. Pretty easy to make better one of these.
wit hthis , the torker is all wrong for that engine as it the cam , if the car was a 4 speed with more gearthen that cam would dork ok , i ran that cam wit hthat gear in a 130k 383 2 bbl engine with a 4speed , it wasn't a barn burner but it was ok.
The build you have laid out is why 383's get a bad rap , use a big cam with a poor single plane intake and it's going to be a dog. What heads do you have ?
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Re: Which intake should I use for my build?
[Re: VITC_GTX]
#937686
02/27/11 04:02 AM
02/27/11 04:02 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
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Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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I would try upping the compression ratio. Maybe use the 0.020" thick steel shim gasket? I see Summit lists Mopar #P4286754 for $21.95/pair, but out of stock, and says to use Mopar DCC-5155237 which are $159.95 Mr Gasket has the #1135G (0.020" thick) one for $21.95 /each. What other cams do you have to choose from?
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Re: Which intake should I use for my build?
[Re: VITC_GTX]
#937687
02/27/11 04:21 AM
02/27/11 04:21 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 902 Seattle, WA
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Seattle, WA
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Quote:
I assumed straight up. I figured I would just follow the specs. Any reason not to?
You're planning to use a cam with mid-range power band and 3.23 gears in a low compression 383. Advancing cam should improve low end performance.
I'd run this by others, but based on all my cam-thread lurking, I'd think you'd want to advance it by at least 4 to 6 degrees.
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Re: Which intake should I use for my build?
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#937693
02/27/11 03:28 PM
02/27/11 03:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,875 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
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Put the cam in around 107-108 ICL, run a performer RPM (the longer runners of the high rise will actually HELP the short stroke ) and I'd go straight to the 3.91's. Use a thin head gasket and mill the heads maybe an additional .020, you have no quench but the extra CR will still help. Also, opinions vary but with that old general kinetics Summitt grind, a set of Rhoads lifters will actually help take out some of that rather long duration and make that cam a bit snappier. that is actually a decent oem replacement 440 cam. I don't like the wide spread for a 383 (that really needs help inthe middle), my real preference would be the Crower 271HDP 224/234, .486/.496 but have it custom ground for a 108 centerline (std is 112) and put it in your motor +3 at 105, on paper it's similar specs to the Summit, but it's a much better mopar lobe and it makes a mild 383 run like a scalded dog The Torker FWIW is a decent 383 4 speed intake, I ran one with a tweaked thermoquad and it was pretty close et wise to a Street Dominator, but that motor had 915 closed chamber heads and 10.5:1, your results might vary. But this was before the RPM dual plane gave us a true high-rise dual plane option, like I said the longer runners (with the right cam especially) will actually enhance torque at a lower rpm with a short stroke motor. And the RPM doesn't have any severe/acute (<90 degree) angles like most of the low rise dual planes have.
Last edited by Streetwize; 02/27/11 03:39 PM.
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