Ok, I am in the process of building my first Hemi, and I am wanting to ask a few questions....first, what I have so far.
4.5 bore world block
Ported Stage V heads
Stock sheetmetal valve covers
Mopar dual plane single 4bbl intake
Dominator Rat Roaster intake
mopar 9.5-1 4.5 stroker pistons

My goal is 85 octane, 650+ horsepower 572. I am not wanting to debate the made in china thing, but I am wanting some guidance and ideas on what componenets to use and are compatiable.

This all started with a killer deal on the on the block and heads. I have always wanted a hemi for my 68 charger so it begins.

I am split between the H beam and I beam rods. I am thinking the K1 H beams or the RPM I beams, both have the 1.031 pins and 2.375 rod pins. I know the 2.20 journals are more common for the strokers but the I beams only come with the 2.375 journals.

Next is the crank, Callies? K1? 440 source? Eagle? They all are about the same price, I am more concerned with quality.

Cam selection is going to be mechanical roller. I thought about a flat tappet cam but with the changes in oil and ZDDP elimation made my decision to go roller. Hydraulic roller requires too much work to install. It was suggested to me to get a cam with about 240@.050, .570 lift and 116 lsa and .012-.015 lash. I am open to ideas or suggestions.

Pushrod oiling? Do I need it?

StageV rockers? stock? NWP? Indy?

What will fit with stock sheetmetal valve covers?

That is enough for now..Thanks Tim

.. best place to start -get the book by MoparRich (Rich Nedbal).

http://www.fastmanefi.com/

85 octane?????

go with the 2.2 journal crank. you will have to do less grinding on the block to get them to clear.
with a bigger cam and springs and sheet metal valve covers the valve springs will probably rub on them, so you will have to clearance them with a hammer.

I bought it, and read it. He gives great information and many directions to go, that is why I have specific questions.

Yes, 85 octane, not everywhere I want to travel has premium. I have 100 low lead locally but not on the road

85? never heard of that...is that an Alaskan thing? Lowest we have is 87.

K1 crank and K1 rods , for a 572 you want a 2.2 crank pin for clearance between the rods and the block .

Lose the M1 dual plane , it's not that great a performer on a 426 it'll be a pig on a 572 .

I also agree ? 85 ??? I'd build it for at least 87 , more like 89.

Pushrod oiling might be a good thing , have the lifter bores bushed and have a 1/8" hole drilled in the bushing.

that's a smallish cam in that size motor for your HP goal I would think .

Contact members Performance Only or Compwedgeracing for the K! pieces and some direction on your build.

My elevation here in Utah is about 4-5000' above sea level, that is why the lower octane, at sea level the lowest I can get is 87 or 89, depending on where you are. Thanks for the input. Tim

9.5 comp with alum heads. That's low so you can run low grade pretty easy. The performance will suffer though. HEMIs are different than wedges, you can run 10.5 comp easy with 92 or 93 octane with those heads, and with full advance on timing. But then again I don not know about your octane ratings. Don't bother with a big cam with that compression (9.5), your wasting your time and fuel.

Contact Mopar Rich about a cam. He is a Comp dealer and certainly knows his Hemis and cams. I got mine from him.

I would throw the MP dual plane single 4 as far away as you can. A real 9.5-1 compression ratio should do what you want but it will tie in with your camshaft choice. Stock Chrysler rocker arms work great and will clear your valve covers. Pushrod oiling certainly wouldn't hurt. Roller cam sounds like a good idea and I would go the FAST injection system, don't even think about carbs.
Carbs and points ignition are what gave Hemi's a bad rep back in the day.

Sheldon

The octane is based on altitude. High in the rockies means low octane, Alaska is mostly sea level so 89 is the norm there.

I was thinking dechellies shafts, stageV rockers, KB stands. Rick Cassel has fair prices from what I have found on the net. If my budget allows it, I would love to run dual fast man efi on a stageV intake....
Tim

You'll be much farther off running 40 year old stock rockers and the injection than you will spending the big bucks for fancy rockers and topping it off with carbs.
The motor won't notice the difference the rockers make but boy will it run better, stronger, cleaner and longer with the injection.
My next build is using 40 year old NOS wide pad rockers and the injection, I'm selling all my Holley and Carter carbs so I won't be tempted to use one ever again.

Sheldon

Ok, I found a K1 crank with 2.20 journal but I have not found a rod that will do the 2.200 big end and a 1.031 little end. Can I bore out the .990 small end on the K1 rods? Or will that make them too thin? It removes .040 of the rod. Tim

Why are you against the .990 wristpin?

I already have Wiesco pistons with the 1.030 pins, I was planning on a 2.375 journals but I am open to using the 2.20 journal crank if I can get rods...Tim

ok, well I pulled the block out of the box, new world block, and put it up on the stand. Found lots of casting flash in the upper water pump holes and one of the coolant passages at the rear of the block. I am expecting some but the passenger side water pump hole was amost closed off. Then I put a piston in the bore to see if it fit, it almost fell through. What should I have for bore clearnace? Block p# P5153862 and pistons are P4876327 and what rings should i get, mopar doesn't carry the recommended ones anymore. Tim

I went out to the shop this morning and began measuring, found the bores were perfect 4.5, then I measured the pistons, middle of the skirt, they were .009 smaller. After the shop warmed up some, the pistons were only .006 smaller. For forged pistons, seems ok but are way looser than any Hyper's that I have worked with in the past. Tim

Tim, that's a forged piston not a hypereutectic.

Ok, I ordered my crank and rods, K1 for both. I have enought left over for a balancer now and hopefully a flywheel soon. I had the heads flowed, they are ok, I was hoping for better though.

Got a Mopar performance steel ring balancer, my machinist has had 2 fluid ones fail, the silicone solidified. Now I am trying to get rockers and a cam figured out. Tim

Well I ordered the cam today, got in the mopar performance water pump, Oil cap and PVC cap, windage tray, rockers are on the way, stock rockers with Dvorak stands, low miles used. Machine shop got the block cleaned up and the K1 crank and rods clear great! The fuel pump is not fitting so far. I am down to roller lifters, pushrods, manifold and carbs, and distributor!

Well my engine is still not running, but its 95% assembled. I had to use the milodon road race pan with the external pickup. The last part I need to buy for the engine is the external oil line. I am having http://www.woolfaircraft.com/ build the line. After an hour of bending 3/8" line, I got a good pattern to have it made from 3/4" 304 stainless tubing. I will keep you posted on the progress. Tim

A year later and you aren't done ??? I've only been building my hemi since 2005 ...

Are you using the main studs and bolts that came with that world block??? Before you build it, there is a thread on here about those studs/nuts you should read. I would get a set from ARP just to be safe.

for no name studs and arp nuts ("sniff sniff" smells funny)
you for checking it out

did anyone ever check what those studs realy are?
i mean instead of just bein upset they dont say ARP on them,doing some reserch as to what they are and what is wrong with them