On the Daytona reared, do you know what that "4" was for?

Justin
"CornDog"

That's a good question - I have seen all kinds of different numbers, symbols, nothing, etc. there. Probably some kind of inspection mark.

Here are a few of my 69 Survivor Road Runner. It is not painted past the inner leaf bolts.

Another shot left side from the front.

Some great examples of why each and every car is it's own "blueprint" in terms of correctness, you can see by just what's been posted here that no two are alike, this is why any sort of "database" of factory markings would fall short of providing correct details for restoring any car but the one they were taken from.

I agree with you that there are very rarely two cars marked up the same way. But if there were some sort of "database" or website on various markings that are found on a car... I would like to see something that translates the markings. On the cars I have done, that is always the first question I get. "What does _____ mean?" Some I know, but most of them I don't.

Justin
"CornDog"

Great topic. Definately an "R" and "E" here... '70 Cuda 3.91....

1970 Challenger 340. with a 3.23 open - Early Dec 1969 SBD

I put back what I found.

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Hey Dartman440, What are the specs on this 69 Road Runner? 383... 440... auto... 4 spd, etc. Thanks!

Justin
"CornDog"

Quote:

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Here are a few of my 69 Survivor Road Runner. It is not painted past the inner leaf bolts.

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What do you use to make the factory markings? Are there paint sticks and stencils available or do you use a paint brush?

I used brushes

Justin
"CornDog"

You would need stamps for the date codes and axle part numbers

My 69 survivor Swinger 340 - 3.23 auto. This before I really cleaned it up. The yellow 565 and 566 are the axle codes...this one was stamped for sure-grip and non sure-grip! The white stamping on the right of the pic is the date code....these can be found anywhere along that side but usually around the U-bolts.

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