Is there a database for factory markings???

Here's a link to the ICCA home page. They have some reference photos posted. I know, I know.....not suitable for OEM judging, but I added some to my car just to make it a little more interesting to look at when I am underneath it cleaning, lol.

Rod

ICCA page

I wish I could have found more info on the markings when I was restoring this last Superbird. I just took many pictures and measurements and duplicated them back onto the reared when the restoration was close to being complete. I would like to see more pictures though. On some of the close up pictures could you mention where they are located. I found a yellow stenciled lettering but it was worn too bad and I couldn't make out what with said. I'm thinking it was the date code.

Justin
"CornDog"

Very nice attention to detail....Never seen an R on the back.....maybe it was a very sloppy F?

Good job.

Thanks. It was definitely an "R" A lot of the paint was rubbed off but there was enough of it there to tell that it was looped together. A friend of mine that is pretty knowledgeable in these cars said the "RB" stood for 3.55 gears.

Justin
"CornDog"

The markings on the backside were year and or body style.
F - 1970
G - 1971
B - B-Body
E - E-Body

The gear ratio markings were the tag and the splotch color combo on the bottom of the carrier...

Here is a 70 E-Body

Any thing is possible - just never seen an R.

Another 70 E-Body

A 71 (G-Series) B-Body

Here is a rear from a Daytona - They usually only marked the body type in 69.

And a 70 E-body

Great info FJ5 Fish! You've really got me thinking now. I studied that think for close to an hour and I kept coming up with R, but the F would definitely make more sense. Here is another picture.

Justin
"CornDog"

On the Daytona reared, do you know what that "4" was for?

Justin
"CornDog"

That's a good question - I have seen all kinds of different numbers, symbols, nothing, etc. there. Probably some kind of inspection mark.

Here are a few of my 69 Survivor Road Runner. It is not painted past the inner leaf bolts.

Another shot left side from the front.

Some great examples of why each and every car is it's own "blueprint" in terms of correctness, you can see by just what's been posted here that no two are alike, this is why any sort of "database" of factory markings would fall short of providing correct details for restoring any car but the one they were taken from.

I agree with you that there are very rarely two cars marked up the same way. But if there were some sort of "database" or website on various markings that are found on a car... I would like to see something that translates the markings. On the cars I have done, that is always the first question I get. "What does _____ mean?" Some I know, but most of them I don't.

Justin
"CornDog"

Great topic. Definately an "R" and "E" here... '70 Cuda 3.91....

1970 Challenger 340. with a 3.23 open - Early Dec 1969 SBD

I put back what I found.

2

3

What do you use to make the factory markings? Are there paint sticks and stencils available or do you use a paint brush?

I used brushes

Justin
"CornDog"

You would need stamps for the date codes and axle part numbers

My 69 survivor Swinger 340 - 3.23 auto. This before I really cleaned it up. The yellow 565 and 566 are the axle codes...this one was stamped for sure-grip and non sure-grip! The white stamping on the right of the pic is the date code....these can be found anywhere along that side but usually around the U-bolts.

More...

Another...

Some more..

Second last...

Last one...

What type of paint do you use?

I appreciate your passion for wanting to know about markings ....Man you picked a difficult one as far as overall correctness and location..I worked those assembly lines for many a year and there are soooo many variables here...The colors and markings and proper locations would vary for a hundred different reasons..Different inspectors, relief people, 1st to 2nd shift, vendor part changes, early to late model cars..This list is endless...I wish there were set rules here but thats just not the case...Survivor cars are excellent resources obviously....Good luck with your search..This is a tuff one...

Bill,

I agree with only the E marking on the pumpkin. Our 70 chally vert with a SPO date of 9/28/69 only has the E and not the FE. Possibly due to the early production date of the car.

Seen plenty of 70's both ways....probably a running change to the I.D. procedure.