1973 Challenger with a 493ci street stroker, I would like to convert from power brakes to manual. What parts are changed and what additional parts are need it to convert from power brakes to manual brakes.

The only new parts are an adjustable brake push rod, a new master cylinder with the correct size bore, and a firewall stiffening plate.

The booster and cureent brake push rod and linkage will be removed. The new push rod bolts straight to the brake pedal arm in a different hole than the old linkage.

The firewall stiffening plate from a manual brake car is best, but your existing one (attached to the back of the booster) can be cut to work.

Thanks, most helpful.

Quote:

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The booster and cureent brake push rod and linkage will be removed. The new push rod bolts straight to the brake pedal arm in a different hole than the old linkage.

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Really !?!?! Tell me more about this different hole. Where is it located and what's the reason for the different hole? Did a similar swap years ago but wasn't aware of the different hole.

Much appreciated.

The different hole gives more leverage (required when going manual). You need more leverage to actually push the MC piston yourself (when using power brakes, all you move yourself is the booster rod, until the rear valve is closed. After that, the depression does a fair part of the job.

If the new engine does not provide enough vacuum to assist the brakes, a hydroboost unit may also be a (pricey) option.

So is this "different hole" on all brake pedal assemblies? '69 Road Runner in particular? Anyone know? I always thought it took a lot of effort - this is probably the problem!