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Try this,set the suspension at 1" rise,0 to 1/32" toe,1/4 degree positive on the camber and 1 to 3 degrees positive caster.Tighten up the torsion bars to limit the travel or install front limiters for a maximum of 3" travel.Try and set the front ride height for 27+" from wheel lip to ground with no more than a 2" rake measuring at the front rocker(just behind the fender) to rear rocker as near to the tire as possible.Make sure before alignment that the pitman arm,idler arm and all tie rods and bushings are good,including the lower controll arms.Tighten the strut rods as much as possible.

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Sounds like a plan , currently set @ 0 deg toe, 0 deg camber at 1 inch and 5 deg caster. 6 inch travel and 27 inch to fender lip through wheel C/L. Car doesn't usually have any stability issues unless it is really windy. Car also rides way higher than +1 inch when racing, looks like a gasser


Do you use 20 degrees angle in and out to check caster? Won't tightening the strut arms alter caster angle too? Upper UCA's and strut bars are adjustable BTW.
Thanks

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Strut rods and more air in the slicks.

My car used to do that and solid strut rods helped it out quite a bit. Didnt eliminate it but cut it way down.

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Car has Alloy adjustable strut bars with no bushes, when you say solid do you mean ones with no bushes?
Vids were taken early in the day, we were going up on pressure each pass.
Thanks

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Try this,set the suspension at 1" rise,0 to 1/32" toe,1/4 degree positive on the camber and 1 to 3 degrees positive caster.Tighten up the torsion bars to limit the travel or install front limiters for a maximum of 3" travel.Try and set the front ride height for 27+" from wheel lip to ground with no more than a 2" rake measuring at the front rocker(just behind the fender) to rear rocker as near to the tire as possible.Make sure before alignment that the pitman arm,idler arm and all tie rods and bushings are good,including the lower controll arms.Tighten the strut rods as much as possible.

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Sounds like a plan , currently set @ 0 deg toe, 0 deg camber at 1 inch and 5 deg caster. 6 inch travel and 27 inch to fender lip through wheel C/L. Car doesn't usually have any stability issues unless it is really windy. Car also rides way higher than +1 inch when racing, looks like a gasser


Do you use 20 degrees angle in and out to check caster? Won't tightening the strut arms alter caster angle too? Upper UCA's and strut bars are adjustable BTW.
Thanks

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How did you achieve 6 degrees (I'am assuming positive) on the caster?Normally tightening the strut rods(but not to bind) will help positive caster.Usually Mopars are set with 1/2 to 1 degree nagative caster and need to go positive.Usually too much negative caster,bump steer or loose componants cause the condition your experiencing.I very seldom see stock Mopar front ends experience bump steer unless something is really screwed up.

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Mafo: Yours looks way better than mine .

BG: Front suspension isn't all stock, I have adjustable UCA's with heim joints. This enabled me to get 5 degrees of + castor angle. The only poly bush is in the stock LCA, but these have stiffening plates. The strut rods are adjustable with a heim joint on the K end.
It could well be that something is really screwed up
All the ball joints are new as are tie rod ends. The only thing I haven't changed is the steering box and the drag link idler arm which I'm going to change in the close season. I have one more race to do this year next weekend so I'll see if I can rig up some sort adj travel limiting arrangement before then.
Thanks again

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I'am going to take a shot here,using the solid strut to pull 6 degees positive is toeing in the lower control arms to a acute angle on the LCA mounting pin and bushing.Back off the strut to only 1 or 2 degees positive and see what happens.

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I'am going to take a shot here,using the solid strut to pull 6 degees positive is toeing in the lower control arms to a acute angle on the LCA mounting pin and bushing.Back off the strut to only 1 or 2 degees positive and see what happens.

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Thanks OK I can lengthen the struts an equal amount on both sides (same turns). Check castor and try again. I could easily do this at the track. Initially I used the UCA's to get the castor angle.
Thanks for your help

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Is your steering box and idler arm in the stock location?

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Yes.
I've also remembered that we heated the steering arms on the hubs and raised them when I was running smaller front tyres and more torsion bar load for a same rake / ride height Wondering if thats causing a problem

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Mafo: Yours looks way better than mine .

You are just polite, English as you are