Here's a vid from the last meeting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91dmTS-UvDc

Here's another one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-w-tGU0Nks

Any tips on how to get rid of the wheel wobble
Cheers.

I looks like it launches really awsome!!! The wheel wobble is definatley scary. Is that a whole hood on there or did you put the scoop on? I am looking for something taller then a stock one to clear my setup.

Bump-steer usually attributed to stock suspension geometry woes. Our car does it but not as severe.. or maybe it does and I haven't looked at a slow motion video. I know its noticeable to the naked eye.

As the suspension drops on lift the geometry of the suspension gets out of wack with the un-equal length control arms and throws all the alignment angles out of wack. I think the common cure is aftermarket suspension and rack and pinion steering

Looking at the video it looks like your toe and camber are WAY out at the end of the second video Maybe have someone familiar with aligning race-cars set up the angles with the appropriate lift (in the front end at speed) Couldnt hurt Randy

Some more toe in maybe?
Looks like you could go a little stiffer on rear shock extension..or slow the front end rise down a bit.
But those launches look really cool, exept for the front wheel wobble.

actually moving the tierod end can fix this..
and poly bushings in the LCA's and strut rods.
that is alot of wobble.
id swear the lca is flexing...lol....

i might suggest trying a tad more air psi in the rear tires. see if the 60ft drops...?
cheapst

for me it helped to limit front end travel

casio exilim camera?

Thanks for the reply's

The Hood is a old MAS piece from years ago, the scoop was modified to make it 3 inches taller.

Car has poly LCA bushes fitted, the strut bars are dynamic ones from CAP as are the Upper control arms.
I set the car up with a camber and castor gauge, after about 5 hours we got 5 degrees of castor zero camber and zero toe at + 1 inch, Tie rod ends were heated and moved up to level the tie bars with the LCA but thats not to say to say stuff hasn't moved since.

I've seen the wheels move on a normal speed camera it doesn't look that much, and the steering wheel wobbles briefly on touchdown. After seeing these vids I'll be checking stuff out pretty soon.

We were running a new brand of tyre, they seemed to have a stiffer sidewall than what we usually used. We were upping the air 1/4 lb per pass till we hit the sweet spot. The vids where from earlier in the day. Ended up with 12.5 psi but I think they could probably go more.

Rear shocks are on max ext damping (9 ways) I agree that slowing the front rise will help. Looking to upgrade the front shocks over the close season.

Sorry I've got no idea what camera the guy was using, makes for an exceptional tuning tool though.

Thanks again

Definitely saw that. Looks like it could use a bit stiffer compression in the shocks. Amazing video! What kind of camera/ video editing did that?

You could see it slam the tire and bounce it like a basketball.. More air? Awesom vids!

First thing I would check is the idler arm to see if the bushing is shot. Interesting video, really can learn allot with that slow motion camera .

Tig, your car is doing what the SS/AA car do, maybe Jared or lordan or one of Holtons will chime in on what they do to limit that wobble. I agree with slowing down the amount of rise on the wheelie and the resulting collision with the ground making things bend and wear I'm a firm beliver in getting both front tires off of the ground the least amount possible,no big wheelies for me BTW, your car is leaving very well, stiffen up and or slow down the suspension extensions and the car will probally go quicker and faster What size, brand and compuond are the new tires? Inquiring minds want to try them

Looks par course .
Smoking cool launch .
That's what you get with the flimsy stock suspension .

Look at 4 days in May video .

Super stock guys have been doing this fore years.

What camara are you using ?

Tig,What does the car do when brakeing at the end of the run?I have an old Direct Connection chassis book that tells you how to measure for and correct bump steer problems. I think your toe settings are changing as the car goes up and down.

My car has done the same thing since early 1970'ths and still does it.

I don't like it and don't know how to fix it, as I have to use the stock frontend parts.

Look at this T&T video from 1977 or 78. Wheelie

Thanks for the reply's.

I don't know what camera the guy is using, he's the official track photographer, Googling Blackett photography may throw some light on this.

I'm going to replace the steering box and Idler arm over winter. They are the only thing I haven't changed on the front suspension. Front shocks are on the cards, maybe rears if finance can stretch to it. I also want to put a bigger cam in the motor too

The tyres are Toyo 10.5 w's. Similar in section width and Circ to the old 29.5 x 10.5 M/T's we had but with an 11.2 inch tread. http://www.toyo.co.uk/productdetail.php?identity=products&product_id=55

Ideally I would like a bit more shackle angle on the rear, we would have to fab some longer hangers and relocate them further forward. It's been on the "to do" list for some time

The car brakes strieght, with a tail wind we terminal @ 141+. Have to stand on the brakes hard sometimes if I've been looking at gauges .

Seems I'm not alone with this "wobble". Does it cost some ET?

Thanks again for the help guys