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More Engine Problems #72898 06/13/08 10:45 AM 06/13/08 10:45 AM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I know you guys are probably getting tired of my engine problems but here it goes. My last problem was a combination of being too lean and a bad coil. The engine is a 73 400 originally a 2bbl, now has a Holley 670 Street Avenger, 452 heads, mild cam, and headers. Now I have the engine running and barely drivable. The car refuses to idle below 1000rpm and tries to die when put in gear unless I feather the throttle, but once it is in gear for a couple seconds I can let go of the gas and it will run all day. I am no expert so I set the timing by getting the engine to a steady 3000rpm with the vac advance disconnected then moving the dist until I got what i thought was the highest rpm by ear. The car revs fine with now load all the way to 4500rpm, which is as high as I want to rev it. When I suddenly let off the throttle it backfires. I tried power braking to see how it performs under load. I hold both pedals to the floor and the car refuses to go above 2000rpm and runs very rough. i can't even get a tire to spin. I then tried road-testing it. From idle to 3500rpm it runs really rough and makes no power at all. In "D" under WOT it shifts out of first at 3500rpm. If I put it in "1" the car screams from 4000rpm-5000rpm. I think I have an ignition timing problem but am not sure. Thanks, Dan

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72899 06/13/08 10:56 AM 06/13/08 10:56 AM
Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina cyphre666
cyphre666 Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina	Way back when, I never used a timing light on light on my car. I would set the timing by ear. Leave the vac. hooked up, turn your dist. until it just starts to put a load on it. Sounds as if you are way to far advanced. I you go to far retarding the timing you will know it when you try to restart when hot. It will drag. I am no expert so I set the timing by getting the engine to a steady 3000rpm with the vac advance disconnected then moving the dist until I got what i thought was the highest rpm by ear.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: cyphre666] #72900 06/13/08 11:51 AM 06/13/08 11:51 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 7,978 Bethel Ct A AdamR master
AdamR master A Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 7,978 Bethel Ct	First thing to do is buy a timing tape for the balancer. Check initial timing and total timing. Is this a Mopar Perf. distributor or a factory one ?

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: AdamR] #72901 06/13/08 11:58 AM 06/13/08 11:58 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 74,978 U.S.S.A. JohnRR I Win
JohnRR I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 74,978 U.S.S.A.	Quote: First thing to do is buy a timing tape for the balancer. Check initial timing and total timing. Is this a Mopar Perf. distributor or a factory one ? no the first thing to do is buy a freakin timing light . i can not believe how many people are timing their engines BY EAR ...

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: JohnRR] #72902 06/13/08 12:09 PM 06/13/08 12:09 PM
Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina cyphre666
cyphre666 Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina	Timing by ear is Old School, and yes I have a timng light now. Way back when, no timing light. A lot of times timing numbers mean nothing, wear, cams, dist adv.all change your specs. We could have the exact same specs on the same engines and one will react differently. So, it is not all the nutty to time by ear. Quote: Quote: First thing to do is buy a timing tape for the balancer. Check initial timing and total timing. Is this a Mopar Perf. distributor or a factory one ? no the first thing to do is buy a freakin timing light . i can not believe how many people are timing their engines BY EAR ...

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: cyphre666] #72903 06/13/08 12:13 PM 06/13/08 12:13 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	It is the stock dist. I have a timing light but it is not an inductive one. I need to disconnect a plug wire to connect it so I didn't bother to use it.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72904 06/13/08 12:20 PM 06/13/08 12:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	Again, I have to throw out here, can someone in the know, and in the area, help this guy out so he can learn the right way to do these things?

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: cyphre666] #72905 06/13/08 12:35 PM 06/13/08 12:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 74,978 U.S.S.A. JohnRR I Win
JohnRR I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 74,978 U.S.S.A.	Quote: Timing by ear is Old School, and yes I have a timng light now. Way back when, no timing light. A lot of times timing numbers mean nothing, wear, cams, dist adv.all change your specs. We could have the exact same specs on the same engines and one will react differently. So, it is not all the nutty to time by ear. Quote: Quote: First thing to do is buy a timing tape for the balancer. Check initial timing and total timing. Is this a Mopar Perf. distributor or a factory one ? no the first thing to do is buy a freakin timing light . i can not believe how many people are timing their engines BY EAR ... thats silly , are you going to make parts for your car with a file and and a hacksaw because modern motor driven equipment isn't OLD SCHOOL ??? he has a timing light , so what if it's not inductive pickup , now you are just being silly ...

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: JohnRR] #72906 06/13/08 12:39 PM 06/13/08 12:39 PM
Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina cyphre666
cyphre666 Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina	So, you are saying you can build duplicate engines with all the same parts and they will all perform exactly the same, Not in a Million years

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: cyphre666] #72907 06/13/08 12:44 PM 06/13/08 12:44 PM
Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,261 ILL mark7171 pro stock
mark7171 pro stock Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,261 ILL	Quote: So, you are saying you can build duplicate engines with all the same parts and they will all perform exactly the same, Not in a Million years i missed the first part. but in class that is exactly what we did. used the same parts dynoed them at got the same results(within reason)..hmmmmm

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72908 06/13/08 12:54 PM 06/13/08 12:54 PM
Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 4,008 South Park, Pa. 68LAR master
68LAR master Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 4,008 South Park, Pa.	Quote: I know you guys are probably getting tired of my engine problems but here it goes. My last problem was a combination of being too lean and a bad coil. The engine is a 73 400 originally a 2bbl, now has a Holley 670 Street Avenger, 452 heads, mild cam, and headers. Now I have the engine running and barely drivable. The car refuses to idle below 1000rpm and tries to die when put in gear unless I feather the throttle, but once it is in gear for a couple seconds I can let go of the gas and it will run all day. I am no expert so I set the timing by getting the engine to a steady 3000rpm with the vac advance disconnected then moving the dist until I got what i thought was the highest rpm by ear. The car revs fine with now load all the way to 4500rpm, which is as high as I want to rev it. When I suddenly let off the throttle it backfires. I tried power braking to see how it performs under load. I hold both pedals to the floor and the car refuses to go above 2000rpm and runs very rough. i can't even get a tire to spin. I then tried road-testing it. From idle to 3500rpm it runs really rough and makes no power at all. In "D" under WOT it shifts out of first at 3500rpm. If I put it in "1" the car screams from 4000rpm-5000rpm. I think I have an ignition timing problem but am not sure. Thanks, Dan Just from reading this, I might suggest 2 things to get you going. First, check the wires to the coil. It sounds like they are reversed. The wire from the distributor goes to the negative side of the coil. Second, buy a timing light if you don't want to use the one you have. Good luck, Larry 4 speed street legal. Best time 10.99 @ 124 mph on 93 octane pump gas @ 3926# total weight

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 68LAR] #72909 06/13/08 01:07 PM 06/13/08 01:07 PM
Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 2,814 Connecticut FurryStump master
FurryStump master Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 2,814 Connecticut	Start from the begining, Check your coil connections,check the plug wires are in the right order and fully connected,wires don't have any burns spots in them. You have to elimnate some of the variables from the situation. Guessing will get you frustrated and usually doesn't work. Don't assume anything. Start from the plugs back. Any plugs fouled, insulators cracked,what's the cap and rotor look like. Set the timing accurately. To me that means a light. You MUST go through it in a methodical way. best of 11.39 at 117 mph 1.60 60’. 68 340 S Barracuda Fastback F.A.S.T [IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2mnnnnt.jpg[/IMG]

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: mark7171] #72910 06/13/08 01:10 PM 06/13/08 01:10 PM
Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina cyphre666
cyphre666 Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina	Sounds like you have a job waiting for you. Top Fuel, Funny car, Prostock, Nascar. Good luck and will I will await to see you on the winning teams. I know it has gotten off the man's problem. So, I will not post on this subject anymore Quote: Quote: So, you are saying you can build duplicate engines with all the same parts and they will all perform exactly the same, Not in a Million years i missed the first part. but in class that is exactly what we did. used the same parts dynoed them at got the same results(within reason)..hmmmmm

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: cyphre666] #72911 06/13/08 02:03 PM 06/13/08 02:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada DaytonaTurbo Too Many Posts
DaytonaTurbo Too Many Posts Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada	There is no good reason for the average person to set timing by ear. It may work, but why not have the peace of mind that your timing is set correct? Going by ear, you don't even know beyond a reasonable doubt that you're in the ball park. Even dial back timing lights are cheap enough on that auction site. Secondly, after you've got the timing confirmed, check to make sure your plug wires are routed correctly. Supposedly there's two wires on BB mopars that are easy to mix up but will still run. Never happened to me, but I thought I'd throw it out there. How new are your plugs/wires/rotor/cap? Next after you're sure it's not an ignition timing problem, try manually disconnecting the secondaries on the carb. If it still runs poor to 3500rpm, then I suspect you can have a jetting problem there. Another thing, you say you have a mild cam in there, what's the specs on it? I have to ask because a 73 400 will have low CR pistons in it. Also, was the cam degreed at all during installation or did you just line up the dots?

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #72912 06/13/08 02:29 PM 06/13/08 02:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	He's been posting for a month or two now about basically the same thing. He is young, broke, and inexperienced with these cars. He isn't following the information provided due to a number of reasons that we cannot pin down (doesn't understand what we are saying?, won't get help?, lazy?, perhaps dyslexic?, not enough time to invest in the project?, whatever the reason is). Somebody needs to spend a couple of hours with him and SHOW him the proper way to tune an engine. He'll do it once, from start to finish, and he'll remember it forever! I can't do it, but who is close enough that they can?

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72913 06/13/08 03:33 PM 06/13/08 03:33 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT M moper I Live Here
moper I Live Here M Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT	bordin, If you are indeed young and inexperienced, that's not a big deal. Just add "and open to suggestions". You can set the timing by ear all day long, it means nothing, as was said. It does sound like you may have more than a simple timing issue, but that's an easy one to fix. The factory distributor will continue to advance way beyond 3000 rpm. In fact, it's barely coming in at that point. So ear timing is a load of BS. BEsides, the engine's not under any laod. How can you think that's the same as full throttle? That's like setting tire pressure by eye. Sure, you know it's got enough, but too much looks the same as just enough. If you have non performance parts in terms of ignition, then dont try using performance settings for specs. I suggest until you can learn, adn invest ina timing light, you pay a place to set the timing and carb for you. It will be less money that the fuel and misc crud you will start buying trying to fix a non issue. Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72914 06/13/08 04:14 PM 06/13/08 04:14 PM
Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 8,165 Left Coast B BobR master
BobR master B Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 8,165 Left Coast	"I am no expert so I set the timing by getting the engine to a steady 3000rpm with the vac advance disconnected then moving the dist until I got what i thought was the highest rpm by ear." You are probably at about 60 degrees BTDC timing this way. Max RPM has nothing to do with timing your motor. Unless you use a light you are wasting every body's time. I agree with Powerwagon that somebody else should be doing this. -Bob

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: BobR] #72915 06/13/08 04:31 PM 06/13/08 04:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 16,376 D dogdays I Live Here
dogdays I Live Here D Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 16,376	with BobR and others, your timing is way advanced. You want, on a bigblock, 38 degrees of mechanical timing in by 3000 rpm. To those of you who persist in thinking every engine is different, you're wrong. I would have said the same thing about 10 years ago, but after studying countless engine buildups I have come to the firm belief that every combustion chamber has its own ignition timing characteristics. The mostly quiescent open chamber bigblock Mopar heads nearly always make max power with 38 degrees mechanical timing, add vacuum to get mileage at part throttle. Smallblock Mopar open chambers like 35-36 degrees, get some squish going and you can go down nearer to 30 degrees. Chevy Vortec heads, their 062 or 906 heads, make best power at 32 degrees. If you twisted the timing for maximum engine speed you probably set the timing where it would be with mechanical and vacuum advance and it would be around 55 degrees. That's WAY too much ignition lead. So, first get a decent timing light. A good inductive light is about $30. Then get the MP timing tape, costs like $6. Set mechanical timing at engine speed of 3000 rpm to 38 degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Then reconnect the vacuum advance and drive the car. It will run as it is supposed to. R.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: dogdays] #72916 06/13/08 04:34 PM 06/13/08 04:34 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	If you're going to use the timing tape, be sure to set a real, mechanical TDC, as your damper may have moved or otherwise not be quite correct.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72917 06/13/08 04:43 PM 06/13/08 04:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 349 Athens,Ga M mjk5thave enthusiast
mjk5thave enthusiast M Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 349 Athens,Ga	just wondering what type of rockers your using. My grand parents had a 72 new yorker with a 400 in it one time that ran like crap bearly moved. come to find out my uncle put the rockers on back words rights where on the left and so forth. Just a thought. Mark

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: dogdays] #72918 06/13/08 04:48 PM 06/13/08 04:48 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 7,365 Iowa burdar Owen's Dad
burdar Owen's Dad Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 7,365 Iowa	The one thing I don't understand about timing is this. The whole point of timing is to give the flame front enough time to travel accross the chamber so you get max burn just after TDC. Why then do you want the total timing to be completely in by 3000RPM? Shouldn't the timing continue to increase with RPM? The higher the RPM, the less time it takes the piston to reach TDC. If the timing stays the same above 3000RPM, isn't the air/fuel mixture igniting way after the piston reaches TDC. Last edited by burdar; 06/13/08 04:50 PM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: JohnRR] #72919 06/13/08 05:46 PM 06/13/08 05:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,647 IL 7 71383beep top fuel
71383beep top fuel 7 Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,647 IL	Quote: Quote: First thing to do is buy a timing tape for the balancer. Check initial timing and total timing. Is this a Mopar Perf. distributor or a factory one ? no the first thing to do is buy a freakin timing light . i can not believe how many people are timing their engines BY EAR ... Let me get this straight...you set the timing by ear and then tested your car out by trying to do a burn out? I seem to recall this as your usual test method for troubleshooting. Once again everybody has given good advice which will go nowhere and the usual excuses of, I'm too young, I'm too dumb, and My dad the mopar man said this will come The truly sad part is that it sounds to me that another 3rd gen big block charger is being beat to death for no reason... Go buy a nova or something for crying out load. away man these posts are just turning into pure entertainment! '73 GK6 Challenger Rallye - 340 4-Speed

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 71383beep] #72920 06/13/08 06:57 PM 06/13/08 06:57 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I did not try to do a burnout I tried putting a load on the engine to see how it would perform. I was trying to get in the ballpark on the timing. Now I know that I need to use a timing light. Gary, I think his name is 383beepbeep, generously came over for a couple hours trying to nail the problem before to no avail last time. It had a bad coil. The wires have less than a couple hundred miles on them and the rotor and cap look like new. The plugs also have about 100 miles on them. It has 69 primary jets and stock in the secondaries. And 71383bee "The truly sad part is that it sounds to me that another 3rd gen big block charger is being beat to death for no reason... Go buy a nova or something for crying out load." Hey, it's not your car I will do whatever I please to this one. If it goes against what you think is "correct" I simply don't care. It is just a car. This is my second 3rd gen Charger. I bought my first with my own money at 14 and this one with my own money at 15. Who cares if it is a big-block, it is also the most produced classic Charger EVER. Do you also feel you are better than me because you are not "beating your charger to death." People like you make young guys like me shy away from mopars. Usually older people embrace the young guys and try to teach them, you simply are not one of those good guys in this hobby. People like you make me and many others stay away from moparts, which is a valuable resource. Do you get your jollies off by insulting people and calling them stupid. You were young at one point if some [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] told you that you are wrecking your car what would you do? Like I said it is just a car. I hope that one day you will realize this. BTW great looking Superbee! Last edited by bordin34; 06/13/08 07:01 PM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: JohnRR] #72921 06/13/08 07:15 PM 06/13/08 07:15 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: First thing to do is buy a timing tape for the balancer. Check initial timing and total timing. Is this a Mopar Perf. distributor or a factory one ? no the first thing to do is buy a freakin timing light . i can not believe how many people are timing their engines BY EAR ... must be cause thier all BLIND..yah..thats it.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 71383beep] #72922 06/13/08 07:23 PM 06/13/08 07:23 PM
Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina cyphre666
cyphre666 Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,233 Eastern North Carolina	Quote: Quote: Quote: First thing to do is buy a timing tape for the balancer. Check initial timing and total timing. Is this a Mopar Perf. distributor or a factory one ? no the first thing to do is buy a freakin timing light . i can not believe how many people are timing their engines BY EAR ... Let me get this straight...you set the timing by ear and then tested your car out by trying to do a burn out? I seem to recall this as your usual test method for troubleshooting. Once again everybody has given good advice which will go nowhere and the usual excuses of, I'm too young, I'm too dumb, and My dad the mopar man said this will come The truly sad part is that it sounds to me that another 3rd gen big block charger is being beat to death for no reason... Go buy a nova or something for crying out load. away man these posts are just turning into pure entertainment! If you are not smart enough to set int. timing by ear, you need to go back to school. There is a point of load, no load and plain idle. If you think, I am referring to setting the timing going down the road at 3,000 RPM. go back to the stupid school from which you came from. I am just trying to help the guy, get some sort of initial timing. If you cannot comprehend this, go and drive your VW diesel. If you don't like that, well kiss me where the sun don't shine

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: cyphre666] #72923 06/13/08 07:40 PM 06/13/08 07:40 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	i for one understand your point BUT, sounds like this Kid is just learning, so timing it by ear is not the best way for him. The Best of the Best can do it, becouse thier familular with how there engine sounds/reacts. but they will still need to dial it in with a light, or take it down the 1/4 mile. But yah i agree, this kid has ALOT of problems with the car and should NOT be driving it. until its all sorted out. either that or go buy a NOVA

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72924 06/13/08 07:44 PM 06/13/08 07:44 PM
Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND 69Cuda340S master
69Cuda340S master Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND	Quote: Now I know that I need to use a timing light. Ok, get the light and set initial timing at 13 degrees advanced at idle with the vacuum disconnected. Degrease the vibration damper and put some timing tape on it so you can see what is going on. Also make sure you have 8 volts at the + side of the coil when then key is in the run position; check this with the engine off.

Re: More Engine Problems #72925 06/13/08 07:45 PM 06/13/08 07:45 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	Some time this week I will hook up my timing light and see what I find. Until then, I will be looking at Novas...

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72926 06/13/08 08:00 PM 06/13/08 08:00 PM
Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 8,165 Left Coast B BobR master
BobR master B Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 8,165 Left Coast	Quote: Some time this week I will hook up my timing light and see what I find. Until then, I will be looking at Novas... At least you have a sense of humor. Really, though, I would not try to fly a jet or have my wife do a tuneup on her Porsche. If you don't know the basics take some of your hard earned money and let someone tune it for you. Watch, if he will let you, and you will forever know. -Bob

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72927 06/13/08 08:09 PM 06/13/08 08:09 PM
Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 902 Seattle, WA R rss super stock
rss super stock R Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 902 Seattle, WA	Quote: Some time this week I will hook up my timing light and see what I find. Until then, I will be looking at Novas... Right on man!!! At least you've got a good sense of humor about it. Keep at it and eventually you'll get it figured out and learn a bunch. As some wise guy once said, "Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72928 06/13/08 10:09 PM 06/13/08 10:09 PM
Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 959 Cincinnati,Ohio J jcastle1 super stock
jcastle1 super stock J Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 959 Cincinnati,Ohio	Hey if your broke,I have a really nice inductive timing light that I've only used a couple of times because I replaced it with an advance style light.Pay shipping and it's yours!-John

Re: More Engine Problems #72929 06/13/08 10:57 PM 06/13/08 10:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,647 IL 7 71383beep top fuel
71383beep top fuel 7 Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,647 IL	Quote: i for one understand your point BUT, sounds like this Kid is just learning, so timing it by ear is not the best way for him. The Best of the Best can do it, becouse thier familular with how there engine sounds/reacts. but they will still need to dial it in with a light, or take it down the 1/4 mile. But yah i agree, this kid has ALOT of problems with the car and should NOT be driving it. until its all sorted out. either that or go buy a NOVA Bingo I guess your a big meanie that's ruining the hobby for our precious youth just like me. I could honestly care less about ruining the experience for this kid because from all of his posts he's barely smart enough to run a lawn mower. Honestly just sell the car before you ruin a second one. Ohh was that too harsh...reality bites man. You want someboddy to fix your car and wipe your [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] for you you are looking in the wrong place. And don't label me as in inexperienced fool because I don't have the "old school wisdom" to time a motor by ear. Gimme a break this is laziness plain and simple. To hook up a timing light and check takes little to no effort...just common sense. An item seriously lacking here. '73 GK6 Challenger Rallye - 340 4-Speed

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72930 06/13/08 11:00 PM 06/13/08 11:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,647 IL 7 71383beep top fuel
71383beep top fuel 7 Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,647 IL	Quote: I tried power braking to see how it performs under load. I hold both pedals to the floor and the car refuses to go above 2000rpm and runs very rough. i can't even get a tire to spin. Thanks, Dan Right...this is just testing a load...my bad. I remember reading that this a very reliable way to check timing in the FSM. '73 GK6 Challenger Rallye - 340 4-Speed

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 71383beep] #72931 06/13/08 11:34 PM 06/13/08 11:34 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: i for one understand your point BUT, sounds like this Kid is just learning, so timing it by ear is not the best way for him. The Best of the Best can do it, becouse thier familular with how there engine sounds/reacts. but they will still need to dial it in with a light, or take it down the 1/4 mile. But yah i agree, this kid has ALOT of problems with the car and should NOT be driving it. until its all sorted out. either that or go buy a NOVA Bingo I guess your a big meanie that's ruining the hobby for our precious youth just like me. I could honestly care less about ruining the experience for this kid because from all of his posts he's barely smart enough to run a lawn mower. Honestly just sell the car before you ruin a second one. Ohh was that too harsh...reality bites man. You want someboddy to fix your car and wipe your [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] for you you are looking in the wrong place. And don't label me as in inexperienced fool because I don't have the "old school wisdom" to time a motor by ear. Gimme a break this is laziness plain and simple. To hook up a timing light and check takes little to no effort...just common sense. An item seriously lacking here. OK.... your a inexperienced fool because you don't have the "old school wisdom" to time a motor by ear. you've just been labeled

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72932 06/13/08 11:46 PM 06/13/08 11:46 PM
Joined: May 2008 Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado 451Mopar master
451Mopar master Joined: May 2008 Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado	Quote: Again, I have to throw out here, can someone in the know, and in the area, help this guy out so he can learn the right way to do these things? Way too many things to check, and without the right tools you could spend days chasing what you think is a problem, only to find the problem is something else. A long time ago, I spent a day messing with tuning the carburator on my friends '70 Challenger (because he insisted that must be the problem), just to find out his new "on-sale" sparkplug wires were junk! I finally convinced him to put his old spark plug wires back on as a "test", and the car ran great. you could have a simular situation where you mess with the ignition system for a few days, then find out it might be a fuel system problem? A dial-back timming light would make easy work figuring the ignition timming and advance. A digital multimeter could be used to check spark plug resistance, but a diagnostic scope would be even better. And with those tools you can get an idea if the ignition system is functioning correctly, and it may be fine leading you to trouble shoot other possabilities like the fuel system. Do you have good fuel pressure? A split or loose fuel line may not alaways leak fuel, but it could allow air to be sucked into the fuel system. I had this problem with the rubber line that connects the hard line to the gas tank pickup. This was a bear to figure out! Same with fuel lines that are partly plugged up, or gas tanks that do not vent correctly, and I'm just talking fuel delivery issues, not carburator tuning issues, thats another can of worms....

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 71383beep] #72933 06/14/08 12:03 AM 06/14/08 12:03 AM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	In regards to the man that offered me the timing light, I don't feel that I need it. I am going to use the one I have right now. I am sure somebody else could use it instead of me having two. Quote: Quote: i for one understand your point BUT, sounds like this Kid is just learning, so timing it by ear is not the best way for him. The Best of the Best can do it, becouse thier familular with how there engine sounds/reacts. but they will still need to dial it in with a light, or take it down the 1/4 mile. But yah i agree, this kid has ALOT of problems with the car and should NOT be driving it. until its all sorted out. either that or go buy a NOVA Bingo I guess your a big meanie that's ruining the hobby for our precious youth just like me. I could honestly care less about ruining the experience for this kid because from all of his posts he's barely smart enough to run a lawn mower. Honestly just sell the car before you ruin a second one. Ohh was that too harsh...reality bites man. You want someboddy to fix your car and wipe your [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] for you you are looking in the wrong place. And don't label me as in inexperienced fool because I don't have the "old school wisdom" to time a motor by ear. Gimme a break this is laziness plain and simple. To hook up a timing light and check takes little to no effort...just common sense. An item seriously lacking here. Last edited by bordin34; 06/14/08 08:31 AM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72934 06/14/08 12:24 AM 06/14/08 12:24 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: In regards to the man that offered me the timing light, I don't feel that I need it. I am going to use the one I have right now. I am sure somebody else could use it instead of me having two. Quote: Quote: i for one understand your point BUT, sounds like this Kid is just learning, so timing it by ear is not the best way for him. The Best of the Best can do it, becouse thier familular with how there engine sounds/reacts. but they will still need to dial it in with a light, or take it down the 1/4 mile. But yah i agree, this kid has ALOT of problems with the car and should NOT be driving it. until its all sorted out. either that or go buy a NOVA Bingo I guess your a big meanie that's ruining the hobby for our precious youth just like me. I could honestly care less about ruining the experience for this kid because from all of his posts he's barely smart enough to run a lawn mower. Honestly just sell the car before you ruin a second one. Ohh was that too harsh...reality bites man. You want someboddy to fix your car and wipe your [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] for you you are looking in the wrong place. And don't label me as in inexperienced fool because I don't have the "old school wisdom" to time a motor by ear. Gimme a break this is laziness plain and simple. To hook up a timing light and check takes little to no effort...just common sense. An item seriously lacking here. You must feel like a big man now. OOO AHHH you can hide behind a computer screen and call a 16 year old stupid. I hope someday you need help and all some [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] does it mock and ridicule you for not having the god-given knowledge of knowing how to expertly tune an engine. You continue to mock me, yet you can't get your own engine running right. I do not need your so called "help" so just [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] off. The point of a forum like this is to share our hobby and aid each other in the fixing of our own car. You obviously have adopted the "holier than thou" mentality. There are many asses in this world and you are one of them. If you are going to Carlisle, I look forward to meeting you. I truly hope that you are an [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] to the wrong person one day and get the ever loving [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] beat out of you. now thats inexperiance talking.. anyways, i still think you have a valvetrain problem (i posted that MONTHS ago). valves/lifters/pushrod/rocker one of those arn't up to snuff. i don't think timing is the problem ( i based this on what YOU say). but i cannot STRESS this enough.. KEEP ENGINE runtime to a bare MINIMUM, otherwise you WILL make things worse. tear off the valvecovers, check the rockers, pushrods, springs, etc. then report back. BTW, did you fix the brakes before you did the 5000rpm backfiring engine test drive ?

Re: More Engine Problems #72935 06/14/08 08:30 AM 06/14/08 08:30 AM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I have removed the valvecovers and there was no play that I could find in the rockers. I will take them off again to make sure. There was however a little bit of side to side play in them. I did not fix the brakes yet, they stop fine for what I need them to. I have tried putting PB Blaster and vice grips on the bleeder to no avail. Last edited by bordin34; 06/14/08 08:33 AM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72936 06/14/08 09:20 AM 06/14/08 09:20 AM
Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND 69Cuda340S master
69Cuda340S master Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND	If you have champion spark plugs in there that could be a problem. Run Autolites if you want it to run correctly.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72937 06/14/08 09:27 AM 06/14/08 09:27 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	Side to side movement is normal on a stock rocker set up. Are all of your push rods "in their right place", meaning that they are in the cup designed to receive them? Some times they pop off... Here is a trick for your bleeders (though it's too late now that you've already used the vice-grips): use a 6 point deep well socket. If you use a metric one, it'll be a bit too tight (only a bit). Take a hammer and carefully drive it right onto the bleeder. NOW, use the ratchet handle and unscrew the bleeder, and take it to your parts store and buy new ones. Since brake parts are so cheap, I'd just get a set of new slave cylinders and calipers and install them, instead of trying to get ancient parts to work. These cars aren't difficult to work on, and they are simple technology compared to todays cars. Yes, there is a lot to understand, but if you can understand, you'll be that much further ahead in the long run! Remember, all cars were like this for the first 70+ years of cars, so many of the "older" folks do understand them, as one had too in order to use these as daily drivers back then. Since computer controls and EFI have come into play, most people are forgetting what it was like before that, and some younger people have never been exposed to this. Hang in there, you'll get it with some patience!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72938 06/14/08 11:40 AM 06/14/08 11:40 AM
Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT GTX MATT master
GTX MATT master Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT	Quote: Who cares if it is a big-block, it is also the most produced classic Charger EVER. Do you also feel you are better than me because you are not "beating your charger to death." People like you make young guys like me shy away from mopars. Usually older people embrace the young guys and try to teach them, you simply are not one of those good guys in this hobby. People like you make me and many others stay away from moparts, which is a valuable resource. Do you get your jollies off by insulting people and calling them stupid. You were young at one point if some [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] told you that you are wrecking your car what would you do? Like I said it is just a car. I hope that one day you will realize this. BTW great looking Superbee! Some of these older guys think that they are the word of God in human form and that they could do no wrong. Take no offense. You are 100 % correct, many of these older guys look for something to blame on you because of your age. I see it all of the time. I get questioned all of the time about stupid crap because people assume that me being a young kid I dont know what im doing. I love the people that tell me that my car doesnt have a 273 in it because the smallest engine they made was a 318. Yeah sure. They forget that some of them were very capable of working on a car when they were a teen ager. I have friends that dont know enough about their own car to tune it correctly. Instead of telling them to sell it because they will never be able to do it I show them how. I think youre too far away from me but Id love to come take a look at your car. It has the electonic ignition, correct? Sounds like an improperly timed engine, fouled plugs, a crossed wire, or maybe a combo of those three as well as possibly a poorly tuned carb. If you ignore these Mopar Police who are trying to make you go buy a Chevy (so that they could then complain about the Chevy tools with all of their chrome) you will get the correct information. DO you have a good manual (like a Chiltons) to help you trouble shoot? Most trouble shooting stuff will be the same on alot of cars, but a manual is always nice for suggestions. Last edited by GTX MATT; 06/14/08 11:42 AM. Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: GTX MATT] #72939 06/14/08 01:51 PM 06/14/08 01:51 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	The brake bleeder was stripped by some previous owner. I would hate to buy all calipers and MC because I couldn't get a bleeder out. The engine has NGK XR5 plugs in it with accel wires with less than 100 miles on them, but I did buy suppression core, I don't know why. I have a Haynes manual and a book titled "Automotive Mechanics: Seventh Edition" circa 1975. From looking at the rockers before I didn't notice the push rods not in the cup. I have no cam specs all the last owner said was it had a "mild cam." Edit-Also I don't think it was a valvetrain problem. When I thought I had a bad ballast I bypassed it with my old coil and the car ran like a champ. Then the rotor fried. It could be a combo of weak ignition and a bad tune. Last edited by bordin34; 06/14/08 01:52 PM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72940 06/14/08 02:26 PM 06/14/08 02:26 PM
Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT GTX MATT master
GTX MATT master Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT	Bypassing the resistor? That will burn your coil out. The first things Id invest in would be a new balast resistor and a coil. Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: GTX MATT] #72941 06/14/08 03:44 PM 06/14/08 03:44 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I already bypassed the ballast and ruined the coil. I now have a working coil and ballast. I tried fooling with the timing because when I took off the bad coil and replaced it would not let the engine rev above 2000rpm in N.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72942 06/14/08 04:07 PM 06/14/08 04:07 PM
Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT GTX MATT master
GTX MATT master Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT	Are the new coil and ballast resistor brand new from a parts store/catalog/internet vendor? Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: GTX MATT] #72943 06/14/08 04:21 PM 06/14/08 04:21 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	The coil is the 30 year old stock one, the one that went bad was a blaster 2. The ballast is one that I had in my stash of parts, it looks old. I tried a= brand new MSD .8 ohm ballast and it makes the car run worse.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72944 06/14/08 05:15 PM 06/14/08 05:15 PM
Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND 69Cuda340S master
69Cuda340S master Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND	With engine off, key in run position, make sure you have 8 volts at + side of coil.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72945 06/14/08 06:02 PM 06/14/08 06:02 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	hmmmmm. not to sound crasp, but everytime somebody asks you the same question.. we get a different answer. perhaps after you try something, write it down, that way you can keep track of what your doing and stop chasing your own tail. you NEED to get yourself ORGANIZED.

Re: More Engine Problems #72946 06/14/08 08:39 PM 06/14/08 08:39 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	On Monday I will solder the leads back onto my voltmeter. Here is a list of this I have done stuff to. ECU -Put a known working one in, still ran the same -Made another ground with 2 12awg wires to the firewall Cap and Rotor -Replaced, still ran the same -I did not feel and excessive play Ballast -Put a known good one in, MSD 0.8ohm ran worse -Put old Standard one in ran the same -Bypassed, before screwing with timing, car ran great MSD Coil -Tried 4 different ballasts, backfired with all -Ran worst with MSD ballast -After checking all the ballasts I bypassed them OEM 30 year old coil -Car no longer backfired, made less power than usual -One day the car randomly would not rev above 2000rpm, so I fooled with the timing Plug Wires -Has Accel 8mm suppression core wires with less than 100 miles on them Plugs -Has NGK XR5 plugs with less than 100 miles -Replaced champions -Gapped at .35 Valvetrain -Visual inspection and pushing with hand showed nothing. -Some side to side play Ignition Timing -Really screwed up Carb -Float levels are correct -69 primaries -Stock secondaries -Holley 670cfm street avenger Distributor -30 year old stock unit Last edited by bordin34; 06/14/08 10:14 PM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72947 06/14/08 10:02 PM 06/14/08 10:02 PM
Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND 69Cuda340S master
69Cuda340S master Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND	I would think the primary jets should be some where between 67 and 72 and no larger.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 69Cuda340S] #72948 06/14/08 10:11 PM 06/14/08 10:11 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	That was a typo I meant 69 size jets. I edited the post to show it correctly.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72949 06/15/08 11:38 AM 06/15/08 11:38 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 1,586 Tampa, FL tpabayflyer pro stock
tpabayflyer pro stock Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 1,586 Tampa, FL	Quote: On Monday I will solder the leads back onto my voltmeter. Here is a list of this I have done stuff to. ECU -Put a known working one in, still ran the same -Made another ground with 2 12awg wires to the firewall Cap and Rotor -Replaced, still ran the same -I did not feel and excessive play Ballast -Put a known good one in, MSD 0.8ohm ran worse -Put old Standard one in ran the same -Bypassed, before screwing with timing, car ran great MSD Coil -Tried 4 different ballasts, backfired with all -Ran worst with MSD ballast -After checking all the ballasts I bypassed them OEM 30 year old coil -Car no longer backfired, made less power than usual -One day the car randomly would not rev above 2000rpm, so I fooled with the timing Plug Wires -Has Accel 8mm suppression core wires with less than 100 miles on them Plugs -Has NGK XR5 plugs with less than 100 miles -Replaced champions -Gapped at .35 Valvetrain -Visual inspection and pushing with hand showed nothing. -Some side to side play Ignition Timing -Really screwed up Carb -Float levels are correct -69 primaries -Stock secondaries -Holley 670cfm street avenger Distributor -30 year old stock unit Looks like an ignition problem to me. If it ran great with full power to the coil than I would say that rules out all other problems right????? Concentrate on why full power is not getting to the coil using the regular wiring and take it from there. TBF

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: tpabayflyer] #72950 06/15/08 09:16 PM 06/15/08 09:16 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	Today I hooked up my timing light and with the help of my uncle we got it in the correct area. It was way too far advanced. He thinks that a valve may be hanging up or burnt and there is a misfire as well as running rich. Tomorrow I will beck out the ignition system and look at the color of the spark.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72951 06/15/08 09:47 PM 06/15/08 09:47 PM
Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND 69Cuda340S master
69Cuda340S master Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND	After you check the voltage at the + side of coil the next step would be a compression check.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72952 06/16/08 07:38 AM 06/16/08 07:38 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	Quote: Today I hooked up my timing light and with the help of my uncle we got it in the correct area. It was way too far advanced. He thinks that a valve may be hanging up or burnt and there is a misfire as well as running rich. Tomorrow I will beck out the ignition system and look at the color of the spark. Now yer talkin'! Did you ever hook up the vacuum gauge and tell us what it read? If you do, in fact, have a burnt valve, it would show up on the vacuum gauge immediately.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72953 06/16/08 01:48 PM 06/16/08 01:48 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	Here is a video of the vacuum reading from when these series of problems first started in April. I no longer have the vacuum gauge as I borrowed it from my teacher and this is the last week of school. For the voltmeter it looks as if I need a pencil tip for my soldering iron or a new voltmeter. http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j172/Charger34/?action=view&current=PICT5756.flv Edit-I just checked my spark and directly from the coil the spark is a nice bright purple and I can move the wire about 1cm to 3/8" from the ground and it still sparks. Now I am going to check the spark from the distributor to plugs. Last edited by bordin34; 06/16/08 02:33 PM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72954 06/16/08 02:46 PM 06/16/08 02:46 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I just checked the spark at the plugs and it sparks a nice white/purple that hurts the eyes to look at. I only checked the number 1 however.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72955 06/17/08 02:26 PM 06/17/08 02:26 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I just ran the engine and it is still backfiring, which leads me to believe it is something in the valvetrain. Burnt Valve, Sticking Valve, Cam, I don't know. Until then, thanks.

Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72956 06/17/08 04:22 PM 06/17/08 04:22 PM
Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,584 MD p d'ro pro stock
p d'ro pro stock Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,584 MD	Did I miss the boat, or did you not say if there were points or elec. ignition? Has the distributor been out of the motor? Id so, it may be installed improperly. Find top dead center and reinstall the distributor. Double check the points and/or the module. When I was your age I installed a distributor 180� out of sync. Wouldn't run, but man, what a backfire!! You may be a few teeth off, is that possible w/ Mopars? I know it is w/ my Vette.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: p d'ro] #72957 06/17/08 09:15 PM 06/17/08 09:15 PM
Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 855 ontario canada kingston aspenrt360 super stock
aspenrt360 super stock Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 855 ontario canada kingston	i have been watching for a while saw bthe vid for the vac. gauge it seems to me it is a vac. leak or a lobe on the cam or a valve sticking or burnt to know more you may have to start ripping into the engine to see whats up just take your time and be as methodical as you can good luck 2013 Chrysler 300 touring 1974 Dodge Charger SE. 360-727-8.75-3.23 sure grip 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: aspenrt360] #72958 06/17/08 09:23 PM 06/17/08 09:23 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	It has electronic ignition. I disconnected and plugged the pcv hose on the carb. Now it is running decent but making no power at all. I also removed both valve covers again -Everything is moving up an down -All the pushrods easily spin -The pushrods all go into the cup -The rockers are on the right sides, the cup for the valve is toward the center -Stock rockers -Some rockers are marked I63+ while others are marked I62+ -On the passenger side all are I62+ except for the rear most -On the driver side they alternate between I62+ and I63+ so some I63+'s are on the exhaust while others are on the intake. Anyway, I think I am over my head now so I may be bringing it to a shop.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72959 06/17/08 10:02 PM 06/17/08 10:02 PM
Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND 69Cuda340S master
69Cuda340S master Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 3,333 MARYLAND	Before taking it to a shop ask around and find a shop that understands the old cars and has a good reputation. Also, a compression check is very easy to do yourself. Remove all sparks plugs, wire carb all the way open, screw gage in spark plug whole, crank starter a few revolutions, look a gage. Write it down for each cylinder and post up the numbers. No need to pay to have that done. Its very easy to do.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: 69Cuda340S] #72960 06/17/08 10:16 PM 06/17/08 10:16 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	The shop I am thinking of bringing it to is run by an about 60 year old guy. He knows old stuff and has an old Rolls in there now. Tomorrow I am going to ride my bike to the parts store and buy a compression tester. Also, I removed plug wires one at a time at idle, when I removed about about 4 of them, not all at once, the engine seemed to labor and want to die until reconnected. But when I removed another 4 it didn't seem to make a difference. Maybe I am running on 4 cyl and that is why it is making so little power. Maybe if I disconnect the ones that don't make a difference all at the same time and it barely makes the rpms drop I could find my problem. I am just speculating right now.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: 69Cuda340S] #72961 06/18/08 06:20 AM 06/18/08 06:20 AM
Joined: May 2005 Posts: 220 Greenville Pa. rdagw enthusiast
rdagw enthusiast Joined: May 2005 Posts: 220 Greenville Pa.	From what I have read on this , it sounds like a carb problem. Reason for backfire could be lean. Engine running the same with 4 wires disconneted is running on half the carb. Try a known good carb. Leo

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: rdagw] #72962 06/18/08 04:07 PM 06/18/08 04:07 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	Wow I just cleaned the spark plugs nearly all of them, except maybe 4, were fouled Its like I injected steroids into it. The power is mostly back. I am still bringing it to the sop on Monday to make sure though. Last edited by bordin34; 06/18/08 04:08 PM.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72963 06/18/08 05:40 PM 06/18/08 05:40 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Sounds like something in the cylinder heads or rings is causing the plugs to foul. Were the plugs oily? That compression test will tell all. It is more than likely in the head/s, especially if they were just put on. Was the cam properly broken in and is the proper oil being used with a greater amount of zinc? Maybe a lobe is worn down. You are on the right track and learning, so hang in there. In regards to those who are immaturely badmouthing the op, back it down a click or two. This is a harder to find problem for someone learning and sometimes things are hard to figure out, even when explained. If it hurts the motor, it can be replaced, which isnt the ideal solution, but it can be done if it is shot. Remember, this is his car and NO ONE needs to tell him to drive something else. I was once a younger Mopar enthusiast (now 23) and went through similar learning processes when I was in my teens. I have great knowledge now and can fix many Mopar related problems and build motors myself. It took time and I feel good now, but still, no one is going to put down my knowledge or my cars and have it bother me. I simply ignore that arrogance, or combat it with my knowledge. Some individuals need to realize that being rude and unaccomadating is not very neighborly in a great Mopar community such as this. Lets respect each other hear and help out, regardless of the fact that it is sometimes difficult to get the message through to some individuals with issues. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: MoparJ] #72964 06/18/08 05:59 PM 06/18/08 05:59 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	The plugs were oil, while some were almost all oil/carbon, others were oil, carbon, with white on the ground strap. The motor was "rebuilt" by the last owner about 3000 miles ago I think. I don't trust the previous owner anymore though. I do not know if the cam was broken in properly but I did take apart the oil filter from 100 miles ago and it seemed fine.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72965 06/18/08 07:06 PM 06/18/08 07:06 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: The plugs were oil, while some were almost all oil/carbon, others were oil, carbon, with white on the ground strap. The motor was "rebuilt" by the last owner about 3000 miles ago I think. I don't trust the previous owner anymore though. I do not know if the cam was broken in properly but I did take apart the oil filter from 100 miles ago and it seemed fine. Is it using any oil that you can tell, or is that normal? How many miles to one quart usage of oil? Seems like a valve issue to me. if you get some compression numbers, PM me or post them. I will try to divulge what you've got. The only other way plugs could be this fouled is not from firing much at all to burn off the oil, but for only the right side plugs to be like this is a bit suspicious. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: MoparJ] #72966 06/18/08 07:19 PM 06/18/08 07:19 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	Both sides had oily ones randomly thrown in. I have only driven this car 100 miles since I have owned it. On startup it burns oil for about 30 seconds, but not much then it goes away. I couldn't get a compression gauge today because of rain. Edit-Here is a picture of the best plug before cleaning, one had a sludge-like compound on some parts of it. I am running 15w-40 Rotella T with a bottle of STP blue stuff. Now I'm mad I didn't do the compression check while changing the plugs I used 7 different techniques to get all the plugs out and it takes about and hour and a half. Last edited by bordin34; 06/18/08 07:30 PM.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72967 06/18/08 07:36 PM 06/18/08 07:36 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: Both sides had oily ones randomly thrown in. I have only driven this car 100 miles since I have owned it. On startup it burns oil for about 30 seconds, but not much then it goes away. I couldn't get a compression gauge today because of rain. Edit-Here is a picture of the best plug before cleaning, one had a sludge-like compound on some parts of it. I am running 15w-40 Rotella T with a bottle of STP blue stuff. Now I'm mad I didn't do the compression check while changing the plugs I used 7 different techniques to get all the plugs out and it takes about and hour and a half. If its burning any oil on startup, something isnt right internally. Bad valve seals fouling the plugs would be my first guess, if not, poorly sealing rings. Is the smoke blue? Could also be a bad set of intake gaskets, but lets get the compression test first. With a little time, we will get to the bottom of this. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: MoparJ] #72968 06/18/08 08:01 PM 06/18/08 08:01 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	Tomorrow I should hopefully have a gauge and be able to test. I just pulled the number 1 and 2 plugs, since i just did a little WOT run after cleaning and quickly shut it down. The 1 looked fine, just like when I put it in. The 2 was already oily.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72969 06/18/08 08:47 PM 06/18/08 08:47 PM
Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT GTX MATT master
GTX MATT master Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 5,161 CT	Your plugs are probably carboned up like that from being too far advanced with the timing. When I advanced the timing on my GTX from its stock initial location at 6 degrees to 15 you could see the black smoke start to pour out of the pipes. Try putting it to stock for a while and it will probably clean the plugs up pretty good. Pull them after its run for a while and if they look good you should be good to go. It might be hard to burn all of the carbon off though. Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72970 06/18/08 09:02 PM 06/18/08 09:02 PM
Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 12,481 Chino Valley RodStRace I Live Here
RodStRace I Live Here Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 12,481 Chino Valley	1. Please stop running the engine at WOT. 2. Do not free rev (neutral or Park) more than 1800 RPM until you have got it running right. 3. Try to follow advise laid out here and in most older automotive books. Test the basic engine first (Compression), then check ignition (which seems like you have covered), then fuel supply and delivery. 4. Note the intake manifold. If it's a stock dual plane, half the motor is fed by one side of the carb, (2 outers on one side, 2 inners on the other). This can be the reason that half the cylinders aren't firing. See if the pattern matches. If so, determine which side of the carb is questionable. Also check for vacuum leaks that may affect one side. PCV and Brake Booster are common. A small vacuum line usually won't cause this. 5. Understand that the reason people do things in a certain order is through experience and training. It may seem like they are crazy doing harder things first and that you want to check stuff in a different order (no tools or easier). There is a method to the madness.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: GTX MATT] #72971 06/18/08 09:03 PM 06/18/08 09:03 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I am pretty sure that the black stuff on the plugs is oil. The timing is where it should be now. I cleaned the plugs really good and the number 2 is oily again.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72972 06/19/08 12:58 AM 06/19/08 12:58 AM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 711 Montana P Posest super stock
Posest super stock P Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 711 Montana	I also would try to tune the carb. A lot of times when a plug gets fouled from over fueling it is toasted and will not fire right, even after cleaning. I just went through this with my dakota engine swap. Buy a new set of plugs and try it again. Turn your carb screws out 2 and a half turns and see what it does. I also ride sled in the winter and motorcycle in the summer. When a plug gets fouled it goes straight to the garbage can. When I put the smallblock in the dakota I used an old set of plugs with a new carb and a different distributor. Had the dizzy in 180 off and fouled plugs. Even after getting it fired up I still had to put new plugs in. Just another example of plug problems is a co-worker sold his newer arctic-cat sled for very cheap because the mag side cyl would not run right. good comp and a great spark with the plug out. Plug in ran like crap. Sold it and the new owner put two new plugs in and it ran like a new sled. Old cleaned up plug would not fire under compression. Taught me a lesson also.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: Posest] #72973 06/19/08 07:01 AM 06/19/08 07:01 AM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	That also makes sense to me, but I believe I have the idle mixture set correctly and my primary jets are now the stock 65 size.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72974 06/19/08 08:09 AM 06/19/08 08:09 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 1,251 Slidell, LA Ronnman pro stock
Ronnman pro stock Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 1,251 Slidell, LA	The oil might be coming from a bad valve stem seal. You can pull the valve cover and see them through the valve spring near the head. Usually if bad they break into pieces from getting brittle. Below is a pic of the seals. I beleive the short one (umbreller like) is exhaust and the longer one is intake. Ron 4498252-valvesealsA.jpg (31 downloads)

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72975 06/19/08 09:07 AM 06/19/08 09:07 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	Hey there Bordin, please remember that it is very easy to blame a carb for engine problems. Most people think that way, actually. But 9 out of 10 times the carb is suspect, it's actually something else. You are on the right track. You have a wobbly vacuum gauge reading, which indicates a bad valve, and that is likely. The compression test will verify/deny the suspicion. Once you have the mechanical aspect of the engine in good shape, THEN you can start blaming ignition and carb for your issues, but the engine must be sound first and foremost. You're getting there!

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: 79powerwagon] #72976 06/19/08 12:14 PM 06/19/08 12:14 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: Hey there Bordin, please remember that it is very easy to blame a carb for engine problems. Most people think that way, actually. But 9 out of 10 times the carb is suspect, it's actually something else. You are on the right track. You have a wobbly vacuum gauge reading, which indicates a bad valve, and that is likely. The compression test will verify/deny the suspicion. Once you have the mechanical aspect of the engine in good shape, THEN you can start blaming ignition and carb for your issues, but the engine must be sound first and foremost. You're getting there! I agree. With the oily plugs and the backfiring through the carb, it sounds like either a major intake leak or a bad valve/s. I would almost wonder if the owner knew about this when he sold it to you and just cleaned the plugs before he sold it to you. Mudslinging aside, you are getting close to a diagnosis. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: MoparJ] #72977 06/19/08 01:06 PM 06/19/08 01:06 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I was definitely played when I bought the car. He said it had new brakes, rebuilt engine, a new interior with one seat needing recovering. All it had a was a very good interior. The brakes look like they could be original and the engine looks like a "new" set of heads and paint. The owner conveniently can't find the receipts. The car is very solid however.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72978 06/19/08 01:18 PM 06/19/08 01:18 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: I was definitely played when I bought the car. He said it had new brakes, rebuilt engine, a new interior with one seat needing recovering. All it had a was a very good interior. The brakes look like they could be original and the engine looks like a "new" set of heads and paint. The owner conveniently can't find the receipts. The car is very solid however. No doubt the car is solid, but if it is just a new set of heads (if new) on a seasoned block with old rings and a bigger cam, then cylinder pressure may change and the rings may not be happy right now; or the heads. What is the oil pressure when hot at idle and cruise? Also, is the smoke that you notice out of the tailpipes and is it blue? Does it only do it on startup, or does it last for a few moments. Some detail on that could be useful, or post a recording of the smoke. Are there any noises coming from the engine (ie knocks or clicks)? 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: MoparJ] #72979 06/19/08 01:48 PM 06/19/08 01:48 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	The oil pressure is usually always on the right 3/4 of the gauge at idle and cruise, which seems high to me. Blue smoke upon startup, then it goes away in a short while. There is a tap-tap sound coming from the number 4 cylinder, but I believe it is a blown header gasket, I can see smoke coming out of it.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72980 06/19/08 02:01 PM 06/19/08 02:01 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	Ok, I just took a video of start-up. After I started it, I took it off fast-idle, revved it, then when it went back down to idle it stalled. The car usually smokes more on start-up. Edit-Here is another taken 10 seconds after start-up. There was blue smoke in the sun. Then as fast idle is automatically taken off, it stalls. A second or two before it stalled, the smoke went away. So that's about 20 seconds of smoke. Last edited by bordin34; 06/19/08 02:10 PM.

Re: Points or Elec. Ignition? [Re: bordin34] #72981 06/19/08 02:18 PM 06/19/08 02:18 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Hmmm, definately seems like bad valve seals or valve guides at the least. Did you see any hardened plastic remnants of the valve seals under the valve covers, or can you see the seals down the valve springs. The problems is definately internal; either heads or rings. Definately not rebuilt, or at least a very poor one. Another question is do you have proper ventilation, such a functional breather on one valve cover and a pcv on the other? Also, is there baffle plates underneath each of those on the underside of each valve cover? Last edited by MoparJ; 06/19/08 02:23 PM. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

More Engine Problems [Re: MoparJ] #72982 06/19/08 02:34 PM 06/19/08 02:34 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I could not see any remnants. I just removed the driver side cover and didn't see anything. I have a breather and a PCV, but the PCV may be bad so I disconnected the hose and plugged it. The valve covers do have the baffles.I tried looking for the seals, but it looks like it has an inner and an outer valve spring and I can't even see the valve stem. I called the auto parts store and they wanted $46 for a compression tester, which seems high to me. So I will try to bum one off somebody. Last edited by bordin34; 06/19/08 02:36 PM.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72983 06/19/08 02:46 PM 06/19/08 02:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	You need to have your PCV connected and working. It's a $2.00 part, get a new one, or wash out your old one with brake cleaner. You should hear the little ball inside rattle if you shake it. If not, it's stuck and should be cleaned. If you do, then hook it back up as it should be. You need to have this working, it's very essential. Here is what it does- while your engine operates, the oil in there gets hot and gives off vapors, vapors that form pressure. By bleeding that vapor pressure out of the engine internals, your engine will run as it was engineered to do. If that pressure builds up, it strains everything and you can blow seals and gaskets, and sometimes, much worse. The PCV system was engineered to burn these vapors and pressures, as opposed to letting them vent into the atmosphere (as was normal from about 1964 and earlier). OK, back to your issues now!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72984 06/19/08 02:56 PM 06/19/08 02:56 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: You need to have your PCV connected and working. It's a $2.00 part, get a new one, or wash out your old one with brake cleaner. You should hear the little ball inside rattle if you shake it. If not, it's stuck and should be cleaned. If you do, then hook it back up as it should be. You need to have this working, it's very essential. Here is what it does- while your engine operates, the oil in there gets hot and gives off vapors, vapors that form pressure. By bleeding that vapor pressure out of the engine internals, your engine will run as it was engineered to do. If that pressure builds up, it strains everything and you can blow seals and gaskets, and sometimes, much worse. The PCV system was engineered to burn these vapors and pressures, as opposed to letting them vent into the atmosphere (as was normal from about 1964 and earlier). OK, back to your issues now! This is absolutely correct. It is imperative to have this component. Get a good one and make sure it is working properly. -Justin Last edited by MoparJ; 06/19/08 03:02 PM. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72985 06/19/08 02:56 PM 06/19/08 02:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I cleaned it with carb cleaner last month, but yesterday I disconnected it and the engine seemed to run better. I will re-clean it and connect it.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72986 06/19/08 02:58 PM 06/19/08 02:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	Give it a shake. If you hear the ball rattle, you're golden! If not, it's clogged (and defective). 3 second test!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72987 06/19/08 03:01 PM 06/19/08 03:01 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: Give it a shake. If you hear the ball rattle, you're golden! If not, it's clogged (and defective). 3 second test! Lol...exactly. Seems small, but this thing does wonders when it is functional. If it ran well with it plugged, check the hose running to the carb for cracks as well (possibly a vacuum leak). -Justin 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: MoparJ] #72988 06/19/08 03:23 PM 06/19/08 03:23 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I shook it and it shakes. I cut off the first 1/2 inch of the hose which was enlarged, then reconnected it. Are the valve seals located on the valve stem close to the head.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72989 06/19/08 03:41 PM 06/19/08 03:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places 7 79powerwagon Too Many Posts
79powerwagon Too Many Posts 7 Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 27,728 places	Yup!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: 79powerwagon] #72990 06/19/08 04:10 PM 06/19/08 04:10 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I just took another test drive and all the car wants to do is die. The engine practically dies then I give it a touch of gas and it comes back to life in gear then when I let off the throttle it tries to die. Also, when I get on it the car really stumbles like somebody was playing with the ignition switch.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72991 06/19/08 04:47 PM 06/19/08 04:47 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	wow, this is getting ridiculous already. TIME TO TEAR INTO THE ENGINE. poppin through the exhaust, oil on the plugs, stalls, dies, takin it to 5000+rpm on a sick engine. TOLD YAH before, you're chasin your tail. park it, and fix it right.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #72992 06/19/08 04:48 PM 06/19/08 04:48 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: I just took another test drive and all the car wants to do is die. The engine practically dies then I give it a touch of gas and it comes back to life in gear then when I let off the throttle it tries to die. Also, when I get on it the car really stumbles like somebody was playing with the ignition switch. Now is the time that I would say hold backon driving it for now until the problem is solved. If it is a valve issue, you do not want to risk dropping one of them, especially with all of the backifiring going on. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: More Engine Problems #72993 06/19/08 04:55 PM 06/19/08 04:55 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: wow, this is getting ridiculous already. TIME TO TEAR INTO THE ENGINE. poppin through the exhaust, oil on the plugs, stalls, dies, takin it to 5000+rpm on a sick engine. TOLD YAH before, you're chasin your tail. park it, and fix it right. In a kind sense, I would agree, but you can't fix anything until you diagnose. Just don't push it too hard. We had to get a little furthur though. At the very least, it looks like a valve job at best and possibly rings. It is time to find a shop to let them dissect it. It is not completely ridiculous. He is young and inexperienced and trying to fix the damn thing, so give him a break. Remember, this will serve as good education to him in the future and he will get better. Constructive criticism is key. Last edited by MoparJ; 06/19/08 04:57 PM. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: MoparJ] #72994 06/19/08 05:11 PM 06/19/08 05:11 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Dr. Phill in the house I see. anyways, the way i see it.. he's getting to many different responces here to be of any help, hence chasing his tail. IF he really wants to learn. get a good rebuild book, take your time and if your stumped.. ask here. "DO OR DO NOT... THERE IS NO TRY!"~ yoda (wise green thing)

Re: More Engine Problems #72995 06/19/08 05:31 PM 06/19/08 05:31 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I agree that I am chasing my tail. I arranged to bring the car to a shop on Monday and that is where it is going. Thanks for all the help.

Re: More Engine Problems #72996 06/19/08 05:37 PM 06/19/08 05:37 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: Dr. Phill in the house I see. anyways, the way i see it.. he's getting to many different responces here to be of any help, hence chasing his tail. IF he really wants to learn. get a good rebuild book, take your time and if your stumped.. ask here. "DO OR DO NOT... THERE IS NO TRY!"~ yoda (wise green thing) No Dr. Phil here; I cannot stand that hypocrit. Lmao. Cmon', if I wasn't level headed, I may have been insulted by that comment, but afterall, this is just a forum. Just trying to speak with a little reason and help him out,sir. I do agree with now being the time to take the thing to a REPUTABLE shop, since we have exhausted everything trying to help him out. To the OP: Taking it to the shop is a good move. Good luck; it will soon be back on the road and healthy. Keep us updated. At the very least here, you learned a lot about the world of automotive troubleshooting. Last edited by MoparJ; 06/19/08 05:39 PM. 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: MoparJ] #72997 06/19/08 06:16 PM 06/19/08 06:16 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: Dr. Phill in the house I see. anyways, the way i see it.. he's getting to many different responces here to be of any help, hence chasing his tail. IF he really wants to learn. get a good rebuild book, take your time and if your stumped.. ask here. "DO OR DO NOT... THERE IS NO TRY!"~ yoda (wise green thing) No Dr. Phil here; I cannot stand that hypocrit. Lmao. Cmon', if I wasn't level headed, I may have been insulted by that comment, but afterall, this is just a forum. Just trying to speak with a little reason and help him out,sir. I do agree with now being the time to take the thing to a REPUTABLE shop, since we have exhausted everything trying to help him out. don't mis-interpret my sanctimonious, obtuse responces.. embrace them. PS, good move bordin34

Re: More Engine Problems #72998 06/19/08 06:24 PM 06/19/08 06:24 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: Quote: Quote: Dr. Phill in the house I see. anyways, the way i see it.. he's getting to many different responces here to be of any help, hence chasing his tail. IF he really wants to learn. get a good rebuild book, take your time and if your stumped.. ask here. "DO OR DO NOT... THERE IS NO TRY!"~ yoda (wise green thing) No Dr. Phil here; I cannot stand that hypocrit. Lmao. Cmon', if I wasn't level headed, I may have been insulted by that comment, but afterall, this is just a forum. Just trying to speak with a little reason and help him out,sir. I do agree with now being the time to take the thing to a REPUTABLE shop, since we have exhausted everything trying to help him out. don't mis-interpret my sanctimonious, obtuse responces.. embrace them. PS, good move bordin34 LOL.....hahaha, if you say so... 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: MoparJ] #72999 06/19/08 06:37 PM 06/19/08 06:37 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: Dr. Phill in the house I see. anyways, the way i see it.. he's getting to many different responces here to be of any help, hence chasing his tail. IF he really wants to learn. get a good rebuild book, take your time and if your stumped.. ask here. "DO OR DO NOT... THERE IS NO TRY!"~ yoda (wise green thing) No Dr. Phil here; I cannot stand that hypocrit. Lmao. Cmon', if I wasn't level headed, I may have been insulted by that comment, but afterall, this is just a forum. Just trying to speak with a little reason and help him out,sir. I do agree with now being the time to take the thing to a REPUTABLE shop, since we have exhausted everything trying to help him out. don't mis-interpret my sanctimonious, obtuse responces.. embrace them. PS, good move bordin34 LOL.....hahaha, if you say so... i believe i just did...

Re: More Engine Problems #73000 06/19/08 06:39 PM 06/19/08 06:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA MoparJ super stock
MoparJ super stock Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 992 Simi Valley, CA	Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: Dr. Phill in the house I see. anyways, the way i see it.. he's getting to many different responces here to be of any help, hence chasing his tail. IF he really wants to learn. get a good rebuild book, take your time and if your stumped.. ask here. "DO OR DO NOT... THERE IS NO TRY!"~ yoda (wise green thing) No Dr. Phil here; I cannot stand that hypocrit. Lmao. Cmon', if I wasn't level headed, I may have been insulted by that comment, but afterall, this is just a forum. Just trying to speak with a little reason and help him out,sir. I do agree with now being the time to take the thing to a REPUTABLE shop, since we have exhausted everything trying to help him out. don't mis-interpret my sanctimonious, obtuse responces.. embrace them. PS, good move bordin34 LOL.....hahaha, if you say so... i believe i just did... ok 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far. Searching for new A or B Body Project!

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: MoparJ] #73001 06/19/08 11:42 PM 06/19/08 11:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,576 Sarcoxie, MO, USA M MoPar Jamie master
MoPar Jamie master M Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,576 Sarcoxie, MO, USA	One more thing to check, the Timing chain. If that sucker hasnt been replaced it probably has a mile of clearance right now. That can cause all sorts of problems and it can jump time. Not to mention the plastic breaks off the gear and can cause a clogged pickup tube. Is it backfiring out the exhaust or the carb? Also when you crank it does it sound like R-R-R-REEER-R-R-REEER like it has a spot where it wants to spin faster for a moment? If it does that thats usually an indication that a valve is dropped. There is low ompression on that cylinder and the starter speeds up because of that. - MoPar Jamie 1972 Fury III 4dr 1986 D-150 LWB Royal SE

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: bordin34] #73002 07/01/08 08:28 PM 07/01/08 08:28 PM
Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 711 Montana P Posest super stock
Posest super stock P Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 711 Montana	Just wondering what you found out on your car.

Re: More Engine Problems [Re: Posest] #73003 07/02/08 02:12 PM 07/02/08 02:12 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD B bordin34 OP super stock
bordin34 OP super stock B Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 842 Urbana, MD	I took it to the shop and I am away right now but my mom said that the guy set the timing and did some carb adjustments. He said he is still trying to track down why it runs badly when cold.

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