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Scott do you still strip them that way? I know times change and have wondered what others do, one of the first things I get asked is, you dont use any solvents do you, and I dont but honestly dont know if it makes a difference or not other then many many hours of hand sanding.

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I am not sure what to make of most of your multi point question? Yes I strip bubbles using paint stripper, it gets them perfectly clean and doesn't harm them one tiny bit. Sanding on the other hand can remove some of the original material and finer details (which is much like hard chalk) and that's why I don't sand them unless they are already wearing new primer to protect the substrate.

Dont read too far into it Scott, I just get asked not to use any solvents as much as id like to.

I myself to a point dont understand why, that was the point of the question.

Anyone telling you not to use solvents is not familiar with the materials that the bubbles are made of.

The org primer comes off very easy by hand and leaves the QC, workers marks on them???? whatever they are its like a black sharpe was used on the very top its always been one of three different letters and a few have had marks on the side.

The markings get left on and primed over, as I dont think I could sand them off whatever type of marker was used it dont come off, if ever restored again the org markings will still be on the bubble.

Ive a couple of my own, and im gonna try some stripper to see how much time it cuts off the whole mess

i`ve got some pics to add to this thread-firstly i would like to ask a question on the argent color. was it the same as the 70 cuda grille?
all the best
frank

if you had to reproduce the back of a shaker then you actually need two to get the oversprays of the primers right. primered back to back as mentioned earlier. all the shakers i saw had red oxide with med/dark grey primer on them.
all the best
frank

and another-yes these are not the same shaker.

scoop inserts were semi gloss black with made in canada stamped on the back-yes another.
all the best
frank.

Not sure if this is the right thread to post these.But there was thread a while back trying to determine bubble color in relation to ext body color with or without rubber bumpers
Either way - here goes.


This was a 1970 Cuda 440-6 4 speed car I looked at a LOOOOOONG time ago.( he wanted $4500 - I offered $3500 should tell you something)
FE5 Red, black vinyl top, black int no console. I want to say it had a rear rubber bumper but can't remember for 100% certian if it did or not.
I'll guarantee this car was 100% factory original paint.

And the best I can tell is the shaker is ever so slightly lighter in color than the grille.
But I could be wrong and it's just the angle of the sun making the grille look darker.
Either way I can't go back and ck, this car was sold many many years ago, and I have no idea where it ended up.

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So the shaker for this car wasn't red?

i have a 70 440-6 cuda in fe5 red built nov 15th and we also have a dec fe5 hemicuda here and i have tried to find out about red shakers on red cars and i beleive mine and the hemi were both argent as we have 8 shakers here and none of them have any signs of red on them. frank badalson once said to me very few fe5 cars had red shakers. we will be restoring both to argent.
all the best
frank.

i have a 70 440-6 cuda in fe5 red built nov 15th and we also have a dec fe5 hemicuda here and i have tried to find out about red shakers on red cars

I know of two org 440-6 Fe5-s with the org red bubbles, ive a pic of one of the cars tag and older pics of both, I will get the build dates...

The 3rd FE5 shaker in doing now I was told came off a challenger, dont know whats up with that but it appears to be one that was sent back and reshot argent, its about 3x the normal amount of paint on most oems and slopped on very well.

Same bubble..

Soon to be NOS laq, not repop crap. Its funny the big dogs sell repop and keep the NOS org laq. for themselves.

Right, if you REALLY want to duplicate every detail of a shaker bubble paint over spray you need 2 bubbles (or a mask that duplicates a second one). They were hung from some type of hook to be painted, they were hooked through one of the smaller forward bolt holes with with what appears to me wires or hooks and the front of the scoops facing the cieling. The two hanging together would have resembled a giant clam and the two would have been slightly askew due to the drain holes being off center. You can also see that the under spray was blown in past the longer drain tubes and the tubes themselves shielded thier own back sides from paint. You can also see that since these same tubes extend down they held the two bubbles appart in the front allowing more over spray than at the rear where the two bubbles flanges started to touch together. Some examples show more of the pattern than others so the process likely varied during production. Here are some marked up photos I took a few years back.

Where can I get the bast matching argent for my Shaker??




Paul

As far as argent color goes, while various parts colors may have varied somewhat when compared side by side (grilles vs bubbles, etc.) there were only two factory colors of argent, light and dark. The bubbles were dark argent. There is no such thing as "medium" argent. Argent paint varied in shade, most likely becaue of variables in miixing by the various vendors who applied it. Fram painted the bubbles, another company painted the grilles, etc. There are litterally dozens of vendors selling and proclaiming thier argent to be "correct". The problem is that it all boils down to a judgement call as there is no true set standard to measure by. In my opinion the best off the shelf mail order paint match is the product Frank Badelson sells (sixpackfrank@aol.com). However there are people whom do not sell paint, but will paint your bubble with what remains of the factory NOS paint (or a blend of NOS and new paint) that they have stashed away. This mix will likely get you a bit closer to what I would call "factory correct" than any other option out there.