Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
[Re: 70440+6bbl]
#71199
06/19/08 12:54 PM
06/19/08 12:54 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
OEM bubble from B05 SPD 'Cuda. Only red primer, no grey sealer
Hello, what color is the topside (black, argent, red)?
M
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Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
#71200
06/20/08 12:27 AM
06/20/08 12:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,268 NY
70440+6bbl
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,268
NY
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Quote:
Quote:
OEM bubble from B05 SPD 'Cuda. Only red primer, no grey sealer
Hello, what color is the topside (black, argent, red)?
M
Hey Mike,
It is Argent.
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Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
[Re: beepbeep]
#71203
06/22/08 06:27 PM
06/22/08 06:27 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Mike
Black top
a lot more overspray (both red and sealer) than my NOS one shown above.
Does it have have the hook marks like Scott showed in his pics?
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Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
[Re: ragtop]
#71204
06/22/08 06:33 PM
06/22/08 06:33 PM
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Anonymous
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Quote:
What 1970 E-bodys got the black bubble?
the only rule of thumb i know of is after May of 1970.
It would be interesting to know what the build dates are of the cars these black shakers posted were.
Quote:
Also what color Argent were the 1970 Cuda rocker moldings?
same as rallye wheels: Argent Silver (Non Textured). The textures cast into the parts.
M
Last edited by Mr_Bezel; 06/22/08 06:33 PM.
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Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
[Re: ragtop]
#71205
06/22/08 08:47 PM
06/22/08 08:47 PM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 118 SE Michigan
ubercuda
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OP
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 118
SE Michigan
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As far as the rocker molding is concerned. I bought my 70 Cuda in 1977 and the rockers were painted a satin black. I don't claim that was the original color but when I had them off I couldn't find a spec of silver on them. Besides with a black vinyl top I think they look better black so I left them that color. Does anyone know for sure if all 70 Cuda rocker covers left the factory argent silver? Thanks.
Last edited by grafcuda; 06/22/08 09:01 PM.
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Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
[Re: ubercuda]
#71206
06/25/08 12:59 PM
06/25/08 12:59 PM
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Anonymous
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In the near future, look for this info and more FACTS on REAL mopar argent silver here: www.moparargentsilver.comMike
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Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
[Re: VCODE]
#71207
08/19/08 10:37 AM
08/19/08 10:37 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington
ScottSmith_Harms
Mr Wizzard
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Mr Wizzard
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
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Quote:
Excuse me for being a little off topic Scott but the above quote reminded me of a couple of instances that were expressed by two different customers of mine. Both guys (different shows and didn't know each other) had said that their voltage regulators were given deductions in the ICCA judging. These were two totally unrelated situations keep in mind. One gentleman said his regulator had been given a deduction because it was too nice and did not exhibit the "necessary raw" appearance of those that were factory or NOS. The other gentleman said his regulator was given a deduction because it had some scuffs on it (his unit was completely NOS) and was not in good enough condition. I thought that was a contrary, no win situation in the world of judging. Either one could have been exemplary of a factory original! I only bring this up because ANY part that is judged can express or represent a range of different variations and still be correct. Don't you think (as evident in my example above ) that only acknowledging a narrow acceptance or view towards a multi faceted subject, will only take away from examples that could be 100% correct? And what about the participant who DOES have a correct version but the judges knowledge hasn't reached that level of correct awareness?
Hi Dave,
No problem (off topic). I'll first say that as with any judging body, the ICCA is not perfect, nor does it claim to be. It's an ever evolving "living document". That's why I said above that there is no "standard" set for judging a Shaker bubble, the information used in judging any componant can change as more knowledge is gained and added to the judging manuals over time. Then there is the human error element that can come into play, even with two judges errors are possible.
As far as your cited example (voltage regulators) I don't know the details on those examples so it's difficult to comment further on those. I understand and concur with your concern for consistant and accurate judging, there is and will likely always be an element of subjectivity, many times it's a true "judgement" call. Believe me, nobody is more interested in improving the system than the ICCA judging body, continual improvement is always the goal and we welcome any help or suggestions in that effort.
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Re: Shaker Bubble Color?
[Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
#71208
08/19/08 10:52 AM
08/19/08 10:52 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington
ScottSmith_Harms
Mr Wizzard
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Mr Wizzard
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
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Somone posted a while back asking about stripping paint from a Shaker bubble. The question pertained to safely using paint stripper as opposed to sanding the paint off. I'm posting a recent example of one I am in the middle of restoring for a customer. The bubble had original paint, a small older repair, and a thick layer of rattle can Argant over the top of the original paint. There are other ways to use chemicals to strip paint (dipping, etc.) but I like good old hand applied paint stripper for small parts, it's messy but allows you to scrutinize the various paint layers as they come off and gives you some "history" on the part. When dealing with composit parts I like to avoid using media blasting or sanding as it can alter the original surface texture. Although I've used "Aircraft" paint stripper (for use on all metals, etc.) in the past with no problems this time I used a "Fiberglass Safe" high quality stripper purchased at a local paint supply (see pic). The bubbles are not made of fiberglass but this stripper is likely a better choice on a composit material. As you can see, this example had the factory primer (red) and the factory sealer(gray) the silver argent paint bubbled and lifted pretty easily but the sealer was stubborn requiring multiple applications of stripper and allot of extra scrapping and scrubbing to remove it completely, the gray sealer was especially tough. I always try to avoid sanding a bare bubble at all costs because if you hit the white base material it changes it's shape forever, it's delicate stuff. It's better to strip them, fix isolated repair areas, sand only as required in those areas, then put down a protective layer of base coat primer before doing any finish sanding work in preparation for paint.
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