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UPDATED INFO : PROBLEM WITH DRIVE SHAFT
#643889
03/18/10 10:42 AM
03/18/10 10:42 AM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 136 CHANDLER, AZ
512 VALIANT
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Posts: 136
CHANDLER, AZ
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Ok my drive shaft that came w/ the car will not quite fit or it fits w/ minimal play (3/8 in max). So I called the local drive shaft shop and they told to measure from tailshaft seal to face of diff yoke (47 and 5/8). I take it down there and they call me and say it already is the correct length and the issue is w/ my yoke tjat it does not slide in far enough and there must be something wrong w/ the splines (thay had an output shaft there and my yoke did not slaide all the way on and theirs did, I saw it). I say ok replace w/ new yoke and balance ($210). I get home and it is exactly the way it was w/ the prior yoke. I marked my old yoke and the new one and go in the same length and both seem to bottom out. Any suggestions, shorten driveshaft?? - I have not called the shop yet to let them know whats going on. UPDATED I took the driveshaft to Arizona driveshaft at lunch and showed them my marks I made on the yolk and where it bottoms out they are going to shorten to make it 3/4-1 inch total. AND they are going to refund my $ for the yolk I bought from them. So a pat on the back goes to them for making things right w/ out any questions. Also thx to every one who responded. I'll see some of you at MATS (don't know if the car will make i again, its close real close but not quite).
Last edited by 512 VALIANT; 03/18/10 05:01 PM.
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Re: PROBLEM WITH DRIVE SHAFT
[Re: quick77rt ]
#643892
03/18/10 11:53 AM
03/18/10 11:53 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,880 USA
Ron Silva
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,880
USA
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If you have 3/8 with the suspension in droop then you might be OK as is. I have had some cars where you had to put weight on the rear tires/compress the rear suspension in order to get the driveshaft in.
Either way, you need to put the car at ride height and take the actual yolk you are going to use, shove it in the trans all the way and pull it out 3/4 - 1" ( I prefer 3/4") and measure C/C on the U-Joints. Make sure the U-Joint cups are horizontal when you do this so pinion angle will not skew your measurment.
I say you are good as is if compressing the rear suspension pulls the DS out of the trans more and allows installation / removal.
Sure it might be better if you shorten it slightly, but only if measuring the correct way confirms this.
SRT DEMON ONE SEAT
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Re: PROBLEM WITH DRIVE SHAFT
[Re: Ron Silva]
#643894
03/18/10 11:59 AM
03/18/10 11:59 AM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 136 CHANDLER, AZ
512 VALIANT
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CHANDLER, AZ
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Quote:
If you have 3/8 with the suspension in droop then you might be OK as is. I have had some cars where you had to put weight on the rear tires/compress the rear suspension in order to get the driveshaft in.
Either way, you need to put the car at ride height and take the actual yolk you are going to use, shove it in the trans all the way and pull it out 3/4 - 1" ( I prefer 3/4") and measure C/C on the U-Joints. Make sure the U-Joint cups are horizontal when you do this so pinion angle will not skew your measurment.
I say you are good as is if compressing the rear suspension pulls the DS out of the trans more and allows installation / removal.
Sure it might be better if you shorten it slightly, but only if measuring the correct way confirms this.
I have the rear diff on jack stands (ladder bar car) and the front of the car is supported by jack stands on the frame rails. The shop said that is what I needed to do to get correct measurments. Do you agree w/ them?
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Re: PROBLEM WITH DRIVE SHAFT
[Re: 512 VALIANT]
#643896
03/18/10 12:30 PM
03/18/10 12:30 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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yup. rear suspension needs to be loaded for a proper measurement. no need for the car to be level, as long as the rear suspension is under load. now, if you're going to start measuring pinion angles and what not, then yea, make sure the car is level.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: UPDATED INFO : PROBLEM WITH DRIVE SHAFT
[Re: 512 VALIANT]
#643897
03/18/10 05:13 PM
03/18/10 05:13 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 136 CHANDLER, AZ
512 VALIANT
OP
member
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OP
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 136
CHANDLER, AZ
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Quote:
Ok my drive shaft that came w/ the car will not quite fit or it fits w/ minimal play (3/8 in max). So I called the local drive shaft shop and they told to measure from tailshaft seal to face of diff yoke (47 and 5/8). I take it down there and they call me and say it already is the correct length and the issue is w/ my yoke tjat it does not slide in far enough and there must be something wrong w/ the splines (thay had an output shaft there and my yoke did not slaide all the way on and theirs did, I saw it). I say ok replace w/ new yoke and balance ($210). I get home and it is exactly the way it was w/ the prior yoke. I marked my old yoke and the new one and go in the same length and both seem to bottom out. Any suggestions, shorten driveshaft?? - I have not called the shop yet to let them know whats going on.
UPDATED I took the driveshaft to Arizona driveshaft at lunch and showed them my marks I made on the yolk and where it bottoms out they are going to shorten to make it 3/4-1 inch total. AND they are going to refund my $ for the yolk I bought from them. So a pat on the back goes to them for making things right w/ out any questions. Also thx to every one who responded. I'll see some of you at MATS (don't know if the car will make i again, its close real close but not quite).
SORRY see updated paragraph - thx
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