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Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style...
[Re: itali83]
#61090
05/21/08 07:53 PM
05/21/08 07:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,616
Kissimmee Fl.
dusturbd340W5
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,616
Kissimmee Fl.
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all I will say is I have been in the trans buisness for over 25 years now. The bolt in was only made to repair a case that the outer race had spun loose in.The weak point is the spring,roller and fingers that lay over the bolt in race does not change this.If the factory race is still tight in the case no reason to change.I have a many of 727 behind SB/BB with some stout motors from stock to full manual VB with stock sprags and no problems.The fingers in a bolt in can roll over as easy as a factory unit if abused enough.The one exception is the 16 element ultimate sprag it has 16 rollers instead of 12 and uses a ford c-6 style sring and roller that is a better design.
Last edited by dusturbd340W5; 05/21/08 07:54 PM.
70 duster full chassis super pro 416 CNC Indybrock heads 727 w/brake
best so far 1.212 60 6.219 in 1/8 at 110.88 9.768 at 137.81 1/4
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Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style...
[Re: itali83]
#61091
05/21/08 09:08 PM
05/21/08 09:08 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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I would agree with most of what was said other than I've seen mild 340's blow trannys and hurt people.If you are going to do any drag racing I would use at least a new bolt in sprague or the super sprague. then a billet steel front drum. You can also get low band apply valve bodies. Also only do second gear burn outs in the water box. 
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Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style...
[Re: itali83]
#61093
05/22/08 09:43 AM
05/22/08 09:43 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,616
Kissimmee Fl.
dusturbd340W5
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,616
Kissimmee Fl.
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the mild 340 didnot blow the sprag what blew the sprag most likely was either a drive line failure or incorrect driving habits I see guys at the track pull in the beems and put the car in neutrel to clear the motor and then never roll the car far enough to reset the sprag or doing burn outs in first not 2nd like was stated above the key is driving proceedure and checking the sprag if you ever lose a drive shaft or rear gear.
70 duster full chassis super pro 416 CNC Indybrock heads 727 w/brake
best so far 1.212 60 6.219 in 1/8 at 110.88 9.768 at 137.81 1/4
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Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style...
[Re: MadMatt]
#61095
05/22/08 11:54 AM
05/22/08 11:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,976
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,976
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Quote:
Also only do second gear burn outs in the water box.
I don't mean to change the subject, but I have heard this before and don't quite understand it. Does this apply only to manual valve bodies? On a regular valve body won't the trans start the burn out in 1st gear regardless of what gear it's in? And what is the problem with doing a burn out in 1st gear, especially if you shift into 1st so the low band is applied?
Thanks! 
yes , this only applies to manual valve bodies and is a must if its a non low band apply unit .
if you are going to replace the sprag to a bolt in it would be silly to not pony up the extra for the super or ultimate sprag because as noted all the bolts to is hold the race from spinning , it does not stop the rollers from rolling over , on the extra roller sprags there is not enough room for the rollers to roll over .
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