Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style...

Posted By: itali83

Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style... - 05/21/08 09:04 PM

Hey guys, I would like to know which style of sprag you have in your 727's. I don't want to start a war about which is better, I just want to know what style you have, how long it's worked for you, what motor and HP you are making and what the car is used for. I've done a lot of reading and still get mixed reviews on which is really NEEDED. so I don't want opinions, just what you have. Thanks in advance!

Posted By: dusturbd340W5

Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style... - 05/21/08 11:53 PM

all I will say is I have been in the trans buisness for over 25 years now. The bolt in was only made to repair a case that the outer race had spun loose in.The weak point is the spring,roller and fingers that lay over the bolt in race does not change this.If the factory race is still tight in the case no reason to change.I have a many of 727 behind SB/BB with some stout motors from stock to full manual VB with stock sprags and no problems.The fingers in a bolt in can roll over as easy as a factory unit if abused enough.The one exception is the 16 element ultimate sprag it has 16 rollers instead of 12 and uses a ford c-6 style sring and roller that is a better design.

Posted By: Anonymous

Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style... - 05/22/08 01:08 AM

I would agree with most of what was said other than I've seen mild 340's blow trannys and hurt people.If you are going to do any drag racing I would use at least a new bolt in sprague or the super sprague. then a billet steel front drum. You can also get low band apply valve bodies. Also only do second gear burn outs in the water box.

Posted By: itali83

Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style... - 05/22/08 10:04 AM

Quote:

all I will say is I have been in the trans buisness for over 25 years now. The bolt in was only made to repair a case that the outer race had spun loose in.The weak point is the spring,roller and fingers that lay over the bolt in race does not change this.If the factory race is still tight in the case no reason to change.I have a many of 727 behind SB/BB with some stout motors from stock to full manual VB with stock sprags and no problems.The fingers in a bolt in can roll over as easy as a factory unit if abused enough.The one exception is the 16 element ultimate sprag it has 16 rollers instead of 12 and uses a ford c-6 style sring and roller that is a better design.

Thanks, that what I was thinking. When I replaced my sprag, my housing was tight, it went in hard, I staked the housing after it was in, even used a little loc-tite to help out and loc-tite on the set screw. I think the big thing is making sure I'm up to date on the correct procedure for burnouts and launching etc etc for my tranny. I AM going to run a shield over it just for safety and nothing will happen to my floor board just in case. Thanks again!

Posted By: dusturbd340W5

Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style... - 05/22/08 01:43 PM

the mild 340 didnot blow the sprag what blew the sprag most likely was either a drive line failure or incorrect driving habits I see guys at the track pull in the beems and put the car in neutrel to clear the motor and then never roll the car far enough to reset the sprag or doing burn outs in first not 2nd like was stated above the key is driving proceedure and checking the sprag if you ever lose a drive shaft or rear gear.

Posted By: MadMatt

Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style... - 05/22/08 03:47 PM

Quote:

Also only do second gear burn outs in the water box.

I don't mean to change the subject, but I have heard this before and don't quite understand it. Does this apply only to manual valve bodies? On a regular valve body won't the trans start the burn out in 1st gear regardless of what gear it's in? And what is the problem with doing a burn out in 1st gear, especially if you shift into 1st so the low band is applied?

Thanks!

Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Bolt in Sprag vs. Factory style... - 05/22/08 03:54 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Also only do second gear burn outs in the water box.

I don't mean to change the subject, but I have heard this before and don't quite understand it. Does this apply only to manual valve bodies? On a regular valve body won't the trans start the burn out in 1st gear regardless of what gear it's in? And what is the problem with doing a burn out in 1st gear, especially if you shift into 1st so the low band is applied?

Thanks!

yes , this only applies to manual valve bodies and is a must if its a non low band apply unit .

if you are going to replace the sprag to a bolt in it would be silly to not pony up the extra for the super or ultimate sprag because as noted all the bolts to is hold the race from spinning , it does not stop the rollers from rolling over , on the extra roller sprags there is not enough room for the rollers to roll over .