Re: Double flare tubing tool
[Re: 71scamp440]
#605794
02/08/10 11:52 AM
02/08/10 11:52 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,031 Erda, UT
67Charger
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,031
Erda, UT
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Quote:
get an otc stinger part number 4503. we sell them over the counter at my work for $33.85. it hasnt let me down yet. used it twice last week with no issues.
I "rented" that exact kit from Autozone for $25 deposit, and never returned it. Before you jump on me, it was at the counterman's advice. He said if I liked it I should just keep it. They couldn't necessarily sell them, but they could replace non-returned rentals with another one. I just used it again last night to do the custom lines on my new Dana. Never slipped once and does really nice flares.
11.33 @ 118.46 on motor 10.75 @ 125.35 w/ a little spray Now, high Speed Open Road Racing - Silver State Classic Challenge, Nevada Open Road Challenge, Big Bend Open Road Race Rocky Mountain Race Week 2020, 2022 2.0, Sick Week 2023
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Re: Double flare tubing tool
[Re: Jeremiah]
#605803
02/09/10 11:05 AM
02/09/10 11:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 634 USA
Slider
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 634
USA
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Quote:
Quote:
My a/c crimper is a Mastercool, they seem to make real nice stuff
I have a Mastercool setup and it is awesome. Factory looking flares without having to remove the line from the car after you bend it up.
The main problem with the flaring tools that are sold is that they are made for "thin wall" tubing. I have yet to see a parts store that sells said think wall tubing. Did you ever notice that your tubing vice (the thing that holds the tube) makes the tube oval when tightened down? This is because you are using thick wall tubing. I have never seen a cheapy double flaring kit made for "thick wall" tubing.
Have been following this thread with interest. Ran across this description on Amazon, of thier Ridgid 345 flaring tool:
<i>Product Description Item #: 632-23337. All flaring tools listed are recommended for soft materials such as aluminum and soft copper
No. 454W, No. 455, and No. 375 will also flare steel, <b>stainless steel</b>, hard copper, and brass
No. 458R and No. 377 will flare steel, <b>stainless steel</b>, hard copper, and brass thru wall thickness of .035 inches
No. 345 is a precisioin designed tool for producing 45§ flares in soft copper. brass. aluminum, and mild-steel tubing. A hardened, smooth cone provides fast, 45§ flares either single or double lap. A single clamp screw provides for easy clamping and removal of tubing</i>
Not reccomending a Ridgid, just for additional info. 458R was about $120.
�Hunt down those Chevies and Fords and crush �em like bugs!� ~ Tom Hoover
(O=o=====o=O)
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Re: Double flare tubing tool
[Re: Moneypit6]
#605805
02/10/10 02:03 PM
02/10/10 02:03 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Well, got the Mastercool flaring kit by UPS after my $320 payment. Put small 45 degree bevels on the line. Locked it in the locking jaws and tightened up till it was very tight with the blocks bottomed. With the tool in place and adjusted, I squeezed the hydraulic handle as I half shut my eyes in fear. The other half of my eyes watched as the tubing pushed right out the bottom of the die!!!!! Noooo!!! It did absolutely no better at holding the tube than the cheaper tools did. I don't see any way it will work unless I grind the outer diameter of the tube down to weaken it. It's 3/8" steel tubing with a .028 wall. That would be counter productive on a fuel line to thin it out more I would think. I'm confused about how so many people don't have any problems doing this unless they are using it on smaller tube.
Wow...320 bucks? Like somone said above, get some different tubing. Sorry about your trouble.
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Re: Double flare tubing tool
[Re: Moneypit6]
#605808
02/10/10 08:56 PM
02/10/10 08:56 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516 Santa Cruz, California
Lefty
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
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Quote:
Well, got the Mastercool flaring kit by UPS after my $320 payment. Put small 45 degree bevels on the line. Locked it in the locking jaws and tightened up till it was very tight with the blocks bottomed. With the tool in place and adjusted, I squeezed the hydraulic handle as I half shut my eyes in fear. The other half of my eyes watched as the tubing pushed right out the bottom of the die!!!!! Noooo!!! It did absolutely no better at holding the tube than the cheaper tools did. I don't see any way it will work unless I grind the outer diameter of the tube down to weaken it. It's 3/8" steel tubing with a .028 wall. That would be counter productive on a fuel line to thin it out more I would think. I'm confused about how so many people don't have any problems doing this unless they are using it on smaller tube.
Some things come to mind...
Clean the line and clamping die with brake clean to make sure there's no oil.
If you are using SS line like Summit sells you have to anneal the end of the line before flaring. I know the ad says it's already annealed, but trust me, it needs to be done again. I use my jet flame cigar lighter pointed at the end until it starts to turn golden, then let it air cool till it's cool to the touch.
Look at the clamping die on the back where the size is stamped. It should be indented where the "45 Inverted" is stamped and the print should be at 90 degrees to the "3/16" stamping. If not, it's the older design. Call Mastercool and ask for tech support. They will probably send you out the newer design clamping die.
You have to bevel the outside edge of the line as in the instructions.
Hope this helps...
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Re: Double flare tubing tool
[Re: 2fast4yourBrain]
#605811
02/11/10 12:35 PM
02/11/10 12:35 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,759 So Cal
HealthServices
Why would you even post that?
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Why would you even post that?
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,759
So Cal
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I do and it works very well for my purposes. I use the 37 degree for AN fittings. Not super quick for production line work but works well for me.
Allen
Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first.
Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
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