What can you guys tell me? Lets see some pics done and in progress..

As most of you know, I had a little "incident" with my Dakota last summer. What I have remaining are, the body and frame, the complete 8 3/4 rear, the front drop spindles, aftermarket d-shaft,rotors, manual rack and pinion,complete steering column, custom 16 gal fuel cell and few other odds and ends parts..

I have mentioned here before that my dad has a '53 Dodge 5 window truck. It has been in storage for about 28 years. The sheet metal of the cab and front end are near perfect but the rear of the frame is rotted due to a wooden flat bed. I informed my dad that I REALLY wanted the truck and that I may want it as soon as I am done w/ my wife's '66 Scout. He has never said anything about it. Not even a price.

But, instead of selling off the rest of what I have, I am now seriously considering keeping it all and trying harder to get that '53. That is why I'd like to see pics and have other info.

I am thinking of installing a modern 5.2l or 5.9l engine. Not to positive yet though. I may just build a carbed small block. I'm thinking of keeping a "driver" style ride. Nothing too extreme like what I've had in the past. Probably similar to our old '69 Cougar. Maybe even see if I can find a newer style bed that may help the looks.

Are these truck a p.i.t.a. to chop a few inches off or are they better left alone? The reason I ask is because I have the 2" drop spindles and think the profile may have it sit too high for my liking, another reason why I'd like to see pics..

Well, let me know what ya all think. Yea or Nea on the idea totally or do ya have some good input. Share it either way....

yea it can all be done here is a guys link on the hamb
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303403

that one hes chopping it but look the guy up he has lots of pics and info they look goood...

sounds like a good idea kevin ! just try to "behave" this time !

Was that 53 with a flatbed a big truck (like 1 1/2ton) or a pickup size?

Pretty much anything bigger then a 3/4 ton will have fender extensions that bolt to the front fenders. These are for clearance of the big wheels and create much more work when lowering the truck. (see the pictures of the cab on the trailer)

If your truck has the standard pickup front fenders, life will be easier, I think.....

Dakota frames are great starting places. They have a good frame with demensions that are easy top work with. I've not swapped a truck cab on a Dakota frame, but have swapped a 50 big truck cab onto an 80 Dodge frame. I'd think the Dakota frame would be a better fit. The short box 1/2 ton frame I put under my 50 was not an easy swap.

At any rate, the biggest issues with any frame swap is width od the wheel track, followed by the relationship between the tire in the wheelwell and the engine/firewall clearance. I don't believe the wheel track will be an issue, but when you start lowering things, lots of strange things start happening. On the full size frame, with the wheels centered in the wheelwells, the engine sat back far enough it interferred with the firewall. To clear the engine, a cut in the firewall the width of the engine and 6" deep would have had to be made. That would have put the "new" firewall almost against the front edge of the dash. A Dakota may work out much better because the engine is almost cewntered over the front wheels where a full size truck the front of the engine is centered over the wheels. Might be enough to eliminate the firewall cut, or at least reduce it. A 3" intrusion into the firewall would be acceptable, 6" is really pushing it.
You will also need to fab cab mounts, and a radiator support because the 48-56 truck front sheet metal hangs off the rad support. Also expect to fab some sort of box (or modify the frame length) because the rear wheels will probably be in the wrong position.

If your truck has the fender extensions, plan on building new front fenders, or doing major modifications to the existing fenders. The extension adds about 4" per side to the cab width and the arch is very large and very long. At very least you will need to reduce the size of the arch, ahorten it by about 10" and reduce the width. Then you will need to make a filler pannel to take up the space of the reduced size arch. The good part is you can modify where the center of the wheel opening ends up being. That helps with firewall clearance.

If your truck has corner windows, chopping the top is also a challenge, but doable if you like that sort of thing. Gene

I ended up putting my 50 on a 4x4 frame and raising the cab up to clear the engine with the firewall. You can also see how much I modifyed the front fenders and fender extensions on my 2 ton cab. Gene

slammed39, thanks.. I'll go check out that link..

Eric.. you know me.. No. I gotta be good. That was a real eye opener. It happened too quick and I got lucky.

Poorboy, I've read your responses back a few pages. I see that you've been there done that. The one I'm looking at is a regualr pick up truck. It had a stake bed at one time. the bed sides are looong gone as is the bed floor. I'm not afraid of any fab work. I'm kinda looking for another challenge. I have thought about using a front engine plate this time. I had a 440 between the rails of the Dak w/ fenderwell exit headers. I think I want to keep everything inside the rails this time. Also, I'm not too worried about engine placement. That is why I mentioned a small block. I already notched the crossmember for the 44o oil pan, I can do lots more there if need be.

The wheelbase is 110 on this chassis. It a shortbed regualr cab '94 Dak. Do you know the wheelbase of a 53? I may go measure my dads this weekend..

you better be good ! another episode like the last one and your hair will be gone like mine. THEN, you will hafta wear a HAT [THE hat]! ya don't want that do ya ?

I've had too many things go wrong. I want this one to be right.. Financial crap led us to sell off the Cougar and Cuda {although we both want replacements}. I got too confident with the Dak and you know what happened. I've sold almost everything off from that except what I've listed. Unfortunate and all but selling it came too early. We do still have the VW rail buggy though..

I NEED a hat like yours. Something with a story and history.. In time, I will.

According to my book, a 1/2 ton pickup had 108" wheel base, but in 53, Dodge added a 116" wheel base 1/2 ton. Also, a 3/4 ton could/would have been 116" wb. The stake bed truck could have been either a 108" or a 116". Clear as mud, eh? Either way, I think the Dakota wb will work out great.

Just for your info, begining in 56 or 57, the step side box stake pockets became straight (read 1 1/2" or 2" square tubing) and begining in 53 through the end in 86 or 87, all step side fenders were the same (think LRE). Also in 56 or 57, the top ledge of the box side change from a 45 degree angle to a 90 degree angle. 1" conduit is about the same diamiter as the rolled tube at the top surface of the box sides. If a guy could live without the strengthing ribs in the box sides, some bent 18g or 20g sheet metal makes a nice box sides that can match any wheel base configuring. See my box in the picture above. Gene

When I was building by Dak about 6 years ago, A friends father was eyeing a 2wd sb frame for a 49. Seems to me the front width was an issue w/ out some major cab mount rework.

I'm not concerned with having to relocate some cab mounts. The truck that I'll be working with{the '53} is pretty solid. I'm guessing I'll have to rework the floor anyways. I can weld any type of outrigging off the Dak frame to make it happen.. Thank you for the heads up though.

I wanted to go measure the wheelbase and track width of the '53 and compare it with the Dak. I didn't get a chance to do that yet. While I'm there, I'll try to take a few pics of what I'm up against..

Kevin, are you planing on on using the roll cage too or did that get removed when you cut it apart?
have any pics of whats left that you want to use?

I think putting the 53 cab and front end on should work out very well, we have about 4 40-46 cabs going on Dakota chassis and I'am told the 53's fit better than the 40's.
a small block will fit better but I think the 440 could be made to fit as well.
making cab and front end mounts is not to hard to do and making a bed and mounting fenders to fit the WB is pretty easy too.

heres a picture I found of a chopped one

Thanks Ron.. Sweet pic too.. Basically the complete Dak as a roller is sitting on my trailer and the cage is still present. I had planned on cutting the bed and cab so that I can just lift those off the frame and leave the cage. Not sure yet. I'm thinking I won't be needing the cage for this "build".

I went and took a few pics of what I could, I also took a few measurements. The wheelbase of the '53 is 118" and the Dak wb is 112". The measurement from the centerline of the front wheel to the rear of the cab on the '53 is 5'. The same measurement on the Dak is 6'. I wouldn't think that the Dak was THAT much longer up front.. Guess the door is quite big.. I wasn't able to get the track width. Could someone else check that for me? And maybe double check the center of wheel to the back of the cab, just to be sure??

Here is what I'd be dealing with... Can ya see in there ????



Its all the way in the back on the right side.

Here's another reason why ya can't see it..





If ya look closely, yes it is sunk in the ground. There is a hill to left side of the barn and guess where all the runoff drains through??

Here's the int..



The truck has been sitting in this barn for roughly 18-25 yrs. Before that he had it outside under a leanto that fell in. I guess I'll say that AS I REMEMBER, when it was outside, the sheet metal was in real nice shape. I noticed that, on the pass side fender, there is a little bubbling where the fender support is. It the area of the little gray spot. Other than that, the side you see is nice and solid.

It has a push button starter. Not sure if they all were or not. It was driven into this spot back then. Has a 4cyl, 3spd, single barrel carb.

Ron, I have a 400 {complete needing freshened up}and a 383 {bare block with crank rods and heads} in my garage. I was thinking of using a small block do to the ease of fitment. I'll have to by new bb motor mounts for the Dak frame. I sold the ones I had. It'll be easier to get stock mounts for a 318/360 and more room for headers..

The 6" difference in wheel base is not a problem as you will need to make a new bed and mount the fenders where you want, or if you go flat bed(personally I like a PU bed)
as far as the track width goes a Dakota is a little wider than say a mustang II so it would depend on what off set wheel you run on the front and how low you want it to set, but if you go with a stock off set wheel and not a reverse wheel you should be OK.
just set the body in place on the frame, fit the front end to be sure the wheels are in the wheel well properly and start making mounts
then get or have some one bend up a bed and mount some rear fenders Ron...

I make it sound easy huh

You make it sound easy because it probably will be. Just time consuming. I was wondering about the track width because I'm not sure how the wheels/tires would fit into the front fenders. Too far inside, too far out, etc. The Tire and wheel combo from the Dak seemed to work out good. Here's how it was then...





Just gotta imagine the '53 sitting with those wheel and tires..

the windshield glass is cracked. i guess you hafta chop the top now.....

Yeah, I know.. I already found 2 other trucks in a junkyard for glass replacement {and other small parts}. One of the rear corner windows is shattered. The yard owner said $25 each for those.

Other then the corner windows, all the rest of the glass is flat safety glass. I have mine cut at a local glass company. $25 each for the corner windows is a decent price, just make sure the ones he has are the 48-53, as 54-56 are different. Gene

I am deep into this process with a 57 Dodge stepside. So far i have a roller mounted on an 88 Dak frame with a 440 auto setup. Track width worked out great, but i ran into clearance problems on the 440. I ended up moving the firewall back 2" at the top for valve cover room. Block-hugger headers solved that problem and a tilt column out of a jeep solved the leg room thing. I wanted to chop the top, but being 6'3" i had to have the room.Because i wanted a flat bed floor, i cut the dak frame behind the cab and shortened and narrowed the 57 frame rear section to fit. I tubbed the bed for tire room ( 31-18.5's on 15x14's). Truck stance has worked out good, i just repositioned the 57 cab mounts onto the dak frame and now the front fenders are 6" off the ground. Looks right.If interested i could post some pics. Randy

sounds kool lets see some pics please,,love 57s