Just a bit. When it's as cold out as it is now (below freezing) my 1999 durango idles below 600 RPM. It'll stall if I don't put my foot on the gas. I only need the idle up 100-200 RPM, and it would be fine. Once warmed up it'll idle that low, so I guess I could live with it, but how can I turn it up? The distributer doesn't change timing, right?
Mike

Im not sure but you might want go to an auto parts store and run a scan for free to see if theres a bad sensor.

You dont. The idle speed is flashed into the PCM.
If you try messing with the idle speed by adjusting the throttle blade screw I believe the IAC solenoid will compensate and bring it back.

I think it might be able to be done with a scanner though.

Perhaps a mopar tech will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

it SHOULD want to idle higher until it warms up. all the fuel injected vehicles I've had, all wanted to idle at 900-1200 rpm the first few minutes of a cold start, and as it warms up, back down to 600-700. I would check all your sensors. you might have a bad intake temperature sensor, bad idle control solenoid, bad coolant sensor, etc.

I don't have any check engine lights on, and I thought if something was out of wack it would trigger the check light. Can I have a bad sensor that doesn't trigger the idiot light?

Your IAC is bad.

There are a number of things that can be out of spec and not turn the check engine light on. Have it checked for codes at the local parts store for free.

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Your IAC is bad.

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THat's where I was leaning too. I've seen them get all carboned up. May just need a cleaning. The throttlebody could use a cleaning too.

If that doesn't help you can just remove the gasket from the plate on the bottom of the intake...that will get the idle up to where it won't stall...

I would change the pcv valve it could be bad

I would check the coolant sensor,that is the first thing that determines the amount of fuel on start regardless of outside temperature.Don't confuse it with the temperature sensor,totaly different.Also,make sure the IAC if free from carbon.

You might try spraying some throttle body cleaner into the throttle body, the IAC controls the air through an orifice in the throttle body and, if the orifice is plugged with carbon, the idle will be off spec.

Another vote for the IAC.
Carb cleaner might fix the problem.

Does it crank over good and strong?? A weak battery will cause the computer too lose memory and cause that problem.Idles fine after a few minutes running because the computer has relearned idle.Clean the crude out of the iac port and the throttle body.Black stuff around the butterflies keeps the air out.it needs some.If all that is clean and still have problems there is a small idle stop srew.remove the factory cap, and you can turn it slightly.back side of throttle body,against the throttl shaft/linkage.If you need more than a half turn,Then you have more problems.Don't keep turning it too correct another problem.That will change the t.p.s. senor reading and will cause other problems.Stuck idle motor could also be a problem.Before you start guessing and throwing parts at it.CLEAN first.and check battery.

Thanks for all the help everyone. It does crank strong, although the battery is suspect. It's out of another one of my cars, that sat all last summer. I'll break out the DMM, and check the system, and the carb cleaner and clean out the IAC/throttle body. The weather has changed, and it's above freezing all this weekend, so that's good timing!
Mike

If everyones suggestions don't help you, there is one more thing to check.

This would involve using a DBR scan tool like the factory or dealership should have.

If the distributor has moved a hair it will effect the fuel curve. This setting can only be re-established with the DBR scan tool. The goal is to acheive 0, plus or minus 1, as the distributor is tighten down.

I recently did this job for a buddy when I sold him my 1999 Dakota R/T motor. The motor was converted to a stock type distributor for when I was going to use it in a car, then returned back to stock factory pieces and EFI.

I learned something new. Timing is 100% controlled electronically, the distributor position sets the fuel. This can not be done properly without something like a DBR scan tool.
I kind of got the vehicle going by trial and error, but it runs like a clock when the procedure is done. Power and fuel economy were restored.

I pulled out the IAC, and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner. The new one was only $43, so I bought one, and just dropped it in. Everything is fixed. Thanks for all the help guys.
Mike