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Muscle Motors dont have their own kit, they use 440 SOURCE and put it in their own packaging

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Wrong...
Not true at all. I have a Muscle Motors crank, that I just installed in the new Hemi engine/block. It was looked at from flange to snout, checked in every way possible. It only needed final balanced and polished. Was it perfect? No, it was tolerable and withing specs according to my machinist, and was given a good bill of health. He knows, and expects it to live a nice life in a 800-900hp Hemi.
I installed the crank and main caps one by one checking crankshaft end play. It was right were I wanted it to be .005, it never varied .001 from the first center thrust main cap to the last one installed. Fact is it was a bargain. The 440 Source crank I used two years ago was the same way fit and finish.

Only problem so far was with the American finished World Block, the mains were not acceptable and needed honed and bored to correct.

FYI
The last Eagle crank I used had a bunch of taper and was way large on the big end spec, so it need turned on the rods to correct. Back then the Eagle Crank as about the only choice for a budget crank...It was $750-$800 for the crankshaft..Add the cost of needing turned, and final balanced I had over $1000 in the crank alone.
That crank took more abuse than anyone could ever dish out to a engine, and kept right on working.

Some times these budget cranks, are a bargain, some times they are not..Its pretty much Hit or Miss with these.

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#4

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to much saki when those were drilled

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All the holes were drilled parallel to the centerline of the crank with the exception of the one not completely drilled.Had been drilled completely through it would have come out in the center main thrust journal.The hole was not parallel to the centerline of the crank as all the others.

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So is that crank alright to use ?? I think that needs to go back where it came from ! That not good.I would think it will be weak right there ?

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Our big concern is the strength at the main thrust journal compromised,that large bore of that hole removed a lot of the attaching material.

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I'm far from a pro.... But I would be sending that crank back.

Being drilled on a angle so close to the journal..

I would be VERY afraid of any weakening in that area.

Much respect BG.. .

Great post, and thank you for taking the time to do this.

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I got it from a guy that originally bought it.IT was a great deal,so I thought.As Monte and many other have stated you get what you pay for.How the Manufacture could ever ship a product in this condition is beyond me.That the supplier missed it is one thing,the guy who bought it is another,the guy that preped the block machine work and started to assemble is still another mystery and it wasn't till it came to BGR after repeated questions and a request for help did we start to completely evaluate the kit for everyone on Moparts did this all come to light.As we seen from many responces that the adverage guy would have assume that it was in race ready or usable condition,we know what "assume does"Thankfully it stopped the assumptions at "me" and no one got hurt and were made an "azz of".Thanks Curt Jr for tinkering in the shop,he was told to take the crank to the crankshop where more good money would have been wasted.Sorry for peeing in everyone cereal and sinking their battleships,but"if you want the truth,you better be able to handle the truth".My next series will be the rods and pistons lets hope we can do better

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so are all of their cranks like this or just this one. would we be safe to buy one of these kits and send the crank back if it looks like that?

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One of the points of this thread was to figure out actual "ready to install" price.... I dont think they are returnable and each kit may have a different issue...

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Was it purposly drilled at a angle to clear the drill past rear counter weight,and was it purposly stopped at the point it was as not to drill into the thrust face? kind'a hard to tell from the pic's

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I'm far from a pro.... But I would be sending that crank back.

Being drilled on a angle so close to the journal..

I would be VERY afraid of any weakening in that area.

Much respect BG.. .

Great post, and thank you for taking the time to do this.

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I got it from a guy that originally bought it.IT was a great deal,so I thought.As Monte and many other have stated you get what you pay for.How the Manufacture could ever ship a product in this condition is beyond me.That the supplier missed it is one thing,the guy who bought it is another,the guy that preped the block machine work and started to assemble is still another mystery and it wasn't till it came to BGR after repeated questions and a request for help did we start to completely evaluate the kit for everyone on Moparts did this all come to light.As we seen from many responces that the adverage guy would have assume that it was in race ready or usable condition,we know what "assume does"Thankfully it stopped the assumptions at "me" and no one got hurt and were made an "azz of".Thanks Curt Jr for tinkering in the shop,he was told to take the crank to the crankshop where more good money would have been wasted.Sorry for peeing in everyone cereal and sinking their battleships,but"if you want the truth,you better be able to handle the truth".My next series will be the rods and pistons lets hope we can do better

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Was it purposly drilled at a angle to clear the drill past rear counter weight,and was it purposly stopped at the point it was as not to drill into the thrust face? kind'a hard to tell from the pic's

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I think this needs more scrutiny before coming to a conclusion.

I am looking at my 440Source 4.250" crank (RB) and both the 5-6 and 7-8 rod journals have the lightening hole at an angle. This appears to be done to allow the drill bit/tooling to clear the crank flange. Mine doesn't appear to be at as much angle as BG's, but that could be a photo illusion or the angle the bar is held at (bar smaller than hole). It appears the 5-6 journal is drilled larger (0.79" dia) and not as deep as the others which are all the way through and about 0.71" dia. The larger bit/tooling for the 5-6 requires it to be at a slightly larger angle than 7-8 and the amount of metal removed may be the same. This does not apply to the front journals since there is no crank flange on the front (damper snout).

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best I can tell from the pic , the protractor appears to be at a 5* angle.

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I'm far from a pro.... But I would be sending that crank back.

Being drilled on a angle so close to the journal..

I would be VERY afraid of any weakening in that area.

Much respect BG.. .

Great post, and thank you for taking the time to do this.

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I got it from a guy that originally bought it.IT was a great deal,so I thought.As Monte and many other have stated you get what you pay for.How the Manufacture could ever ship a product in this condition is beyond me.That the supplier missed it is one thing,the guy who bought it is another,the guy that preped the block machine work and started to assemble is still another mystery and it wasn't till it came to BGR after repeated questions and a request for help did we start to completely evaluate the kit for everyone on Moparts did this all come to light.As we seen from many responces that the adverage guy would have assume that it was in race ready or usable condition,we know what "assume does"Thankfully it stopped the assumptions at "me" and no one got hurt and were made an "azz of".Thanks Curt Jr for tinkering in the shop,he was told to take the crank to the crankshop where more good money would have been wasted.Sorry for peeing in everyone cereal and sinking their battleships,but"if you want the truth,you better be able to handle the truth".My next series will be the rods and pistons lets hope we can do better

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Hey I like to waste money, how much for the crank?

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sell it to the man Bob, he likes what he sees