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B-Body subframe connectors
#565096
12/28/09 04:57 PM
12/28/09 04:57 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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Which ones & who from? All I see on Summit is the Competition Engineering ones. Are they good? I'll be welding these into a 67 Satellite. Thanks as always, guys.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: B-Body subframe connectors
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#565099
12/28/09 05:43 PM
12/28/09 05:43 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
You can also use regular square tube if you don't mind cutting into your floorboards in the area the backseat passengers feet go.
 ....best way to go about it, but I would recommend rectangular box iron (tube) widest dem, vertical, 3/16- 1/4" wall, cut thru the floor where the tube needs to be recessed, ...those floor fitting "saw tooth" u shaped subframes are a joke, some are cut down so thin, why bother
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Re: B-Body subframe connectors
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#565100
12/28/09 06:24 PM
12/28/09 06:24 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
You can also use regular square tube if you don't mind cutting into your floorboards in the area the backseat passengers feet go.
....best way to go about it, but I would recommend rectangular box iron (tube) widest dem, vertical, 3/16- 1/4" wall, cut thru the floor where the tube needs to be recessed, ...those floor fitting "saw tooth" u shaped subframes are a joke, some are cut down so thin, why bother
Well I think a 1/4" wall is way overkill and going to add a lot of weight, quarter inch is pretty darn thick! We went with 2x3" .100 wall tube. Thicker than any of the stock framing yet reasonable on weight.
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Re: B-Body subframe connectors
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#565103
12/28/09 07:22 PM
12/28/09 07:22 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
You can also use regular square tube if you don't mind cutting into your floorboards in the area the backseat passengers feet go.
....best way to go about it, but I would recommend rectangular box iron (tube) widest dem, vertical, 3/16- 1/4" wall, cut thru the floor where the tube needs to be recessed, ...those floor fitting "saw tooth" u shaped subframes are a joke, some are cut down so thin, why bother
Well I think a 1/4" wall is way overkill and going to add a lot of weight, quarter inch is pretty darn thick! We went with 2x3" .100 wall tube. Thicker than any of the stock framing yet reasonable on weight.
I like overkill!.....plus I don't like anything under 500 HP either  ..... .100 wall tube is good for exhaust pipe 
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Re: B-Body subframe connectors
[Re: Stanton]
#565106
12/28/09 09:28 PM
12/28/09 09:28 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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Fabbing from 1/4" steel box is rediculous! and I wont be cutting through the floors! The US Car Tool pieces look very nice! I'm sure they stiffen the chassis up significantly more than the C.E. ones that just weld front and rear, and are separate from the floor, between. But I'm sure you need to rip your seats and carpet out to install those. Also, my car has factory undercoating on the floors. I'd have to remove all of that..... Not that big of a deal, I know..... But I'd rather not make the job harder than it has to be. Hmmmm, What to do? In the words of George Costanza... "Why must there always be a problem!?"
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: B-Body subframe connectors
[Re: snojet]
#565111
12/29/09 02:30 PM
12/29/09 02:30 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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Both pictures of the US Cartool connector installs are on cars being stripped and put on a rotisserie. My car is rolling, and has a very nice full original interior in place, that I don't really feel like ripping out. I'm just looking to help stiffen my car up. The Comp Eng. pieces can be installed fairly easily, and I think will offer me what I'm looking for. Thanks fellas 
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: B-Body subframe connectors
[Re: snojet]
#565113
12/29/09 03:10 PM
12/29/09 03:10 PM
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 765
Shoreline, Washington
72roadrunnergtx
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 765
Shoreline, Washington
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Quote:
The pic's you posted are very nice and it confirms what I said. The back connection is only about 1 1/4 tall. The rest of the factory frame is above it and not connected to anything. If you are going to take the time to add the connector you mite as well go the full height and add some real support so the car won't twist. Height is strength when it come's to frame's
No argument here on the principles you describe, if I was building a race car, I would have no problem with cutting the floor, or anything else for that matter, to strengthen the integrity of the entire structure. My understanding of the OP's posts on this thread was the desire to stiffen his car without extensive modifications. It can be done and will result in a significant/noticeable improvement in body rigidity.
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