rotor phasing? anyone see this?
#565005
12/28/09 04:38 PM
12/28/09 04:38 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,491 the boonies
aarcuda
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i cut a window in my didtributor cap on a stock mopar distributor with welded slots) to check the rotor phasing. i dont run vacuum advance.
at idle and at 300o rpm, the rotor is dead nuts with the tower contact like it should be. but when i rev it up, the phasing changes from an initial rotor to the left of the #1 tower to way right of the tower (real close to the #2 plug tower) and then it settles back to dead nuts. this only happens at the rev- a quick left then right (or maybe vice versa)
I changed to a new mopar perf distributor with the mallory advance and saw the same thing.
Both distrs had a collar on the distr drive shaft up against the oil pump gear so its not climbing up and down the slot.
I cant explain it. when the rotor is way to the right of the #1 wire's tower (Small block), the rotor looks like its just barely to the left of the #2 terminal - and that cant be possible. the spark from the rotor will jump to thew closest terminal and if it was jumping to the #2 cap terminal, my light shouldnt have fired since im on the #1 plug wire.
My only explanation is that my timing light cant keep up with the rapid change in rpm so its showing a delay during the quick rev (throttle blip).
I am using an older snap on electronic light with the rpm and digital advance function so I'd think this light would be top of the line.
Anyone else try this and see this or can explain it?
It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspensions, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas.
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Re: rotor phasing? anyone see this?
[Re: aarcuda]
#565013
12/28/09 05:04 PM
12/28/09 05:04 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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IF your not using vacuum advance then pin the plate. only way to be sure it won't move.
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Re: rotor phasing? anyone see this?
[Re: aarcuda]
#565014
12/28/09 05:19 PM
12/28/09 05:19 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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That is a puzzler cause it's acting just like it has a functioning vac adv. For there to be that much of a change in the rotor arc I wonder if there IS a problem w the light. I have a pod w alot of advance (11 degrees of (dist)adv) so it can shift where the rotor is frozen by the light at up to an 11 degree arc & from your descrip if I'm reading it right you are showing alot of movement. But k.i.s.s. I'd sure be inclined to think a dist/crossfire prob as the actual culprit.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: rotor phasing? anyone see this?
[Re: aarcuda]
#565016
12/28/09 05:36 PM
12/28/09 05:36 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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I pinned one by drilling a small hole vertical thru both plates then connected/pinned them w a small bolt/nut. Got another light you could borrow real quick?
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: rotor phasing? anyone see this?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#565019
12/28/09 06:08 PM
12/28/09 06:08 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,491 the boonies
aarcuda
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I Live Here
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OP
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the boonies
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Quote:
Quote:
I cant explain it. when the rotor is way to the right of the #1 wire's tower (Small block), the rotor looks like its just barely to the left of the #2 terminal
Clarify this: at idle & 3000 its dead centered then with a quick rev it will move slightly to the left (ccw) of #1 then it will swing cw until it is almost to #8 (you said 2 but are you meaning 8?) Correct or not correct
i did this a while back so memory is kinda bad but i recall that upon reving it either moved towards #8 (cw) but still close to #1 (probably 1/8" to the left of #1- but closer to #1 than #8) and then as i let off, it moved ccw to almost at #2 (like 1/8" to 1/4" to the left of #2- but close enough that #2 should have fired since the rotor was way closer to #2 than to #1).
it was that or vice versa- reved it and it moved ccw almost on #2 and then as i let go, it moved cw towards #8 (but real close to #1- maybe a 1/8" past from #1)
at steady state either idle or at rpm, it was dead nuts on the #1 terminal
if it wasnt so cold outside right now, id start it up and verify but its too cold to start right now
It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspensions, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas.
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Re: rotor phasing? anyone see this?
[Re: aarcuda]
#565020
12/28/09 06:32 PM
12/28/09 06:32 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Alright,thats describing about 45 degrees of phasing change!.I gotta give up (for now). You said that light had a digital advance gismo in it. I think I'd borrow someones light real quick to try & pin this down
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: rotor phasing? anyone see this?
[Re: AndyF]
#565022
12/28/09 10:24 PM
12/28/09 10:24 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
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phasing shouldn't change with timming and advance simply for one reason. Phasing just makes relation between reluctor point and rotor. So the spark is produced at rotor always at same point with reluctor because neither rotor or reluctor moves between them.
Now beginning with this statement what I thing is true ( even not an expert, just analizing ), lets start to search for the real problem.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: rotor phasing? anyone see this?
[Re: NachoRT74]
#565023
12/28/09 10:35 PM
12/28/09 10:35 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314 Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
dave571
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Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
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My question is, is there even a problem present?
As mentioned, without vac advance the phasing can't change. It's not possible.
Is there a running concern, or are you just checking the phase?
I've curved distributors for several years now on an old sun machine I have. I check the phase at assembly, and that's it.
The vac pod arm should be more than adequate to hold the plate if that's what you are running. When I delete the vac advance, I use a screw to hold the plate in place, and then a special cover over the slot for the arm to hold the cap. It has a tab on it like the advance pod did, but I have used the pod not hooked up before, if that is any help to you.
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