putting together the final pieces on my new B1 TS Motor and need suggestions on what oil pump to run?
do i go with the gerotor style like a Titan again or step up to a Johnson oil pump.
also suggestions on either dry sump or wet sump, going in a stock K frame car with center link.
I was leaning towards a Johnson wet vac pump.

pictures of oil systems with oil lines welcome.

what about the system 1 oil pump?

the best you can get!
http://www.autoverdi.com/about.html

I'd run a dry sump system on a motor like that.

Be careful dealing with Johnson, he thinks he walks on water. If you are going to do the dry sump route, you will not go wrong with Auto Verdi or Dailey Engineering. My PS hemi has a Dailey pump, and it makes 18" of vacuum, with no vacuum pump. Top notch stuff and it is not cheap, but, you don't want to cut corners in this department.

There are several wet sumps that are decent, but, no matter what, get a STAR vacuum pump, to go along with your wet sump system. Once again, not cheap, but, well worth it, in the long run.

Hope this helps......

www.daileyengineering.com

Going dry sump is a hassle the first time because you need to buy all the parts such as the tank, lines, filter, drive kit, etc. But once you have a dry sump setup then I doubt you would ever switch back. It is easy to pre-oil the engine, you can change the drive ratio by changing the pulleys, and the external tank provides better quality oil to the engine. If you buy the correct oil pump you won't need a vaccuum pump and you'll probably pick up some power over a wet sump setup.


If you're starting from scratch there isn't really that big of a price difference. A custom pan is going to cost the same either way. The really good wet sump oil pumps cost about the same as a dry sump pump. The cost of a vaccuum pump is roughly the same as the dry sump tank. You need a filter and hoses either way although the dry sump hoses are probably more complicated and longer.

Another nice thing about the dry sump is that you can get rid of load on the distributor gear. If you go with a belt drive distributor then you really clean up the ignition timing. For a motor on the ragged edge having the timing rock solid is worth some power and/or engine life.

Call around and chat with a few engine builders. Guys like Koffel and Best Performance seem to go dry sump on the super serious motors. My guess is that they do it for some of the reasons I listed above.

The other trick I'd do is go with an external water pump that is bolted onto the radiator. Then run dual lines on both the pressure side and the return side. That way the front of the engine is completely open for access to the pump drive and the distributor drive. You can easily change cam timing or ignition timing and you can quickly inspect everything.

With the dry sump and the Jesel distributor in place you just install a plug into the old distributor hole which then frees up space around the valve covers and intake manifold. The plug wires route better, maintenance is easier, you don't have an ignition curve to mess with, there isn't a gear driven off the camshaft (which in turn is driven off the crank), etc.

also i forgot to mention,the oil pump hole is plugged.

I agree it will be crowded with the stock K frame, may be a challenge. However, plenty of NA wedges running a dry sump system. You do not see as many true dry sump systems on blown applications(Erie Monster) because there is often positive pressure in the oil pan, same reason you do not see vac pumps with a blower. So I do not see this as as a mopar specific situation.
Advantages to the dry sump are as i understand them
1. can mount motor lower in chassis since you need very little pan depth
2. external oil reservoir for steady oil supply
3. can reduce windage hp losses

Do some motor designs benefit more from a dry sump than others (eg non skirted) sure but they all benefit from these systems.

The down sides are making them fit and the extra weight.
Just my two cents.

want to mention that the stock K frame has been cutout extensively and lightened, i have a jeff johnson billet fabrications low profile pan in there now with a titan oil pump but new motor i believe needs a different setup?

If you are planning on running any of the established NSS circuits NONE of them allow dry sump oil sysems. The only circuit I know of that lets you run a sheemetal intake is the NMCA and that is only for A-AAA/FX. Maximum carb size is 850. No other circuit I am aware of allows them.
Pretty sure the B1-TS heads are not allowed eighter since they said Indy Preditor heads would not pass tech. Setup would be nice for Quick-16 only problem is it would not be near quick enough in a 3000# car. Should be fun to drive though.

I just use one of those junky old KB wet sump pumps with a couple of lines to the pan..BTw for what it's worth the right oil pan on a wet sump setup is worth a good deal of power..The wrong one will cost you power.

i was leaning towards a johnson wet vac oil pump which eliminates my star vaccuum pump.
anyone ever use one before?