Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: Stanton] #545589
12/05/09 12:09 AM
12/05/09 12:09 AM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Quote:

Quote:

what ever you do, DO NOT use brakleen anywhere within about ten miles of where you are going to weld that.




Thanks, but you're a week late with that advice. Anyhow, tell me why. I'm guessing I was fortunate that nothing happened as a result.




oh, nothing too serious, only that the fumes could KILL you.

Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: Stanton] #545590
12/05/09 12:14 AM
12/05/09 12:14 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,048
Richmond, Tx. (Houston)
GTSDave Offline
master
GTSDave  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,048
Richmond, Tx. (Houston)
It's not so much about getting the oil out folks. Aluminum oxidizes and forms a thin layer of aluminum oxide. It melts at 2 to 3 times the temperature of aluminum.

Even if it looks shiny and brand new, it still has a layer on it. Cleaning it off is done with chemicals and the stainless wire brush. If you dont clean it off, once you have the heat high enough to melt it, the aluminum underneath will just run out like water.

Think of it like breaking the crust on a pie, once you get through the top layer everything underneath will be goo.

If you get that thin little layer off aluminum oxide off first, then you only need enough heat to form your puddle in the aluminum. And wont have the danger of melting away the good stuff.

If that makes any sense.

-Dave


PLEASE Pray for our brothers and sisters in harms way.

If you are the owner of a GTS us at the GTS Registry www.gtsregistry.com
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: GTSDave] #545591
12/05/09 12:34 AM
12/05/09 12:34 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer Offline
master
Bob_Coomer  Offline
master

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
IMO
Just use a stainless wire brush and some heat...
No matter what type of chemicals you put on it, when you hit it with some heat those impurities will boil to the top...Just apply a little heat and wire brush it.

Also you can fill the intake runner with some air arch gouging rods and weld away...They will back up the puddle and the weld wont
stick to it at all.

Check this stuff out
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp

Last edited by Bob_Coomer; 12/05/09 12:35 AM.

[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color]
[color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: GTSDave] #545592
12/05/09 12:35 AM
12/05/09 12:35 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 951
Temperance, MI
P
prochargedhemi Offline
super stock
prochargedhemi  Offline
super stock
P

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 951
Temperance, MI
Basically what everyone else has said, i have a few different aerosols that i use daily but the best for aluminum seems to be "NO FLASH" its made by LPS and works awesome. On thicker aluminum i use a heat plate to preheat everything (this also aids in getting oils out of the casting) spray and wire brush off and then weld. you will tell as soon as you strike an arc if its clean or not

Re: TIG Welding Aluminum #545593
12/05/09 02:17 AM
12/05/09 02:17 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
WA 98043
thecarfarmer Offline
super stock
thecarfarmer  Offline
super stock

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 871
WA 98043
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

what ever you do, DO NOT use brakleen anywhere within about ten miles of where you are going to weld that.




Thanks, but you're a week late with that advice. Anyhow, tell me why. I'm guessing I was fortunate that nothing happened as a result.




oh, nothing too serious, only that the fumes could KILL you.



Depending on the formulation of brake cleaner you use, it can make phosgene gas when hit w/ a flame.

And it only takes the tiniest whiff of that to mess you up (seizure, nerve/brain damage, pancreas damage, erc) or kill you. Really, really bad stuff.

Maybe one of the few things that makes hydrazine look safe.

-Bill


Seduce the attractive, and charm the rest. ****** 489 C.I.D., roller cam, aftermarket heads, tunnel ram, stock '54 Dodge rear axle assembly: which of these doesn't belong?
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: thecarfarmer] #545594
12/05/09 11:43 AM
12/05/09 11:43 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 916
MB,CAN
PC-CHARGER Offline
super stock
PC-CHARGER  Offline
super stock

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 916
MB,CAN
Here's a link to a story about brake clean.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: PC-CHARGER] #545595
12/05/09 04:38 PM
12/05/09 04:38 PM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,682
Philadelphia
R
radar Offline
top fuel
radar  Offline
top fuel
R

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,682
Philadelphia
Also- watch out pennies aren't copper anymore. They're copper plated pot metal or something. I often use coins to dress up the hardware when I make tattoo machines. I braze them onto the ends of screws to make handles so you don't need to get a wrench to tighten the tube vise etc.

Anyway, the new ones have a 'creamy center' and if you heat one up with an ox/a torch it will pop sending molten pot metal all over. To make a short story long, don't use new pennies as copper!

Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: radar] #545596
12/05/09 05:52 PM
12/05/09 05:52 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing Offline
master
B G Racing  Offline
master

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
As Mr Coomer says heat it,clean it with a ss brush and preheat before welding.On a repair like that I would drill it out cut a aluminum dowel or slug,tap it in the hole and weld it.If you can weld it on the inside also,then grind it smooth with a diegrinder and tootsie roll it.

Re: TIG Welding Aluminum #545597
12/06/09 12:24 AM
12/06/09 12:24 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 6,257
acworth / N. georgia - south e...
cheapstreetdustr Offline
master
cheapstreetdustr  Offline
master

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 6,257
acworth / N. georgia - south e...
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

what ever you do, DO NOT use brakleen anywhere within about ten miles of where you are going to weld that.




Thanks, but you're a week late with that advice. Anyhow, tell me why. I'm guessing I was fortunate that nothing happened as a result.




oh, nothing too serious, only that the fumes could KILL you.




or worse..youll be a walking Zombie...with no lung capacity..


365" Iron J heads,,3480lbs best 1.39 60ft on SS springs.10.54,124 mph ...6.67 1/8th et.average 60fts 1.46 w/ small cam &.063 no2 pill tagged & insured
[image][/image]
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: MR_P_BODY] #545598
12/06/09 01:05 AM
12/06/09 01:05 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,013
Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426 Offline
I Live Here
Moparnut426  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,013
Finally a HUSKER again
Quote:

Quote:

A stainless steel wire brush is fine as long as it is clean...maybe some alcohol to remove oils. A little trick is to put a piece of copper behind the hole when welding. The filler won't stick to it.




... has to be a stainless brush.... dont
sand blast it




I agree dont blast it, it can imbed any impurities deeper in the aluminum. One thing that works great to clean it is John Deere 80% either, let it sit to completely dry out, Either will completely evaporate without leaving any residues. I have done this for many years on aluminum, cast iron, copper, and stainless. Use the brass behind it and it will fill up easier.

Kasey

Re: TIG Welding Aluminum [Re: radar] #545599
12/07/09 04:31 AM
12/07/09 04:31 AM
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 494
IL
E
EchoSixMike Offline
mopar
EchoSixMike  Offline
mopar
E

Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 494
IL
Pennies have been zinc core for several decades. S/F...Ken M

Page 2 of 2 1 2






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1