How does this 505 ci set up sound? This would be using what I have on hand with the exception of the stroker kit. I would like to know if anyone is running a similar combo and their performance, also what kind of hp do you think with this cam and these heads? I figure this should be right at 12.24:1 compression.

Block:
-1969 440, (tall fill??)
-Bored .030
-Decked and squared to 10.710 deck height (pistons are flush with deck)
-Oil passage enlarged for ½” pickup and main bearing “feeds” reamed to 9/32”
-Line bored and fitted with BCR aluminum main caps
-ARP main studs with 440 Source main girdle
-Deburred, lifter valley smoothed and polished

Rotating Assembly:
-4.25 stroke crankshaft (Muscle Motors Racing).
-H-beam rods (muscle Motors Racing)
-Forged flat top pistons with plasma moly ring pack (file fit)
-Clevite race bearings
-Balanced assembly from Muscle Motors Racing

Heads:
-Edelbrock aluminum, 28 lbs each
-Fully CNC ported by Straightline Performance (not max wedge opening)
-Deck surface has been milled .030 for 78cc combustion chambers

Valvetrain:
-Lunati solid roller cam & lifters
-270/276 @50, .647/.647 lift, 108 lsa
-Indy SR 1.5 roller rockers and shafts
-Hughes Engines billet rocker shaft hold downs (set to .015 clearance per pair)
-Manton 3 series, 3/8 x .083 wall custom pushrods
-Rollmaster billet timing set w/ Torrington bearing
-Lunati valve springs, 10° locks & retainers (??? Pressure)
-Comp Cams lash caps

Miscellaneous:
-Mopar M1 intake, milled .015 to fit
-Holley 950 HP race carb
-TCI “Rattler” balancer
-440 Source 7 qt. Oil pan with ½” pickup and windage tray
-Melling HV oil pump
-Hooker 2” Super Comp headers (ceramic coated)
-Mopar aluminum water pump housing with Milodon hi flow water pump
-Cometic head gaskets, .040 thick, 4.410 bore

I would talk with Scott about a custom cam or put 1.6 rockers on it to get more lift.
Bob

A different cam or heads might be nice but like the post says, I've got this stuff already.

Be careful on how full you fill the block, I stopped at 3" below deck, if you go more you might get into heating problems. BCR aluminum caps are a good move, his whole kit is a work of art. I run a .650 lift cam with 1.5 roller rockers, could go more . Most of your build is close to mine except the pistons, mines a pump gas dog.

I'd run victor heads. Also, if you're going to run BCR caps, get their whole cap and girdle system. We've built two similar engines to this, minus head porting. One was a 496 (383 with 4.250 stroke). cam was in the 250@.050 range and it made 570 hp. Victor intake. Built a 493 440 based motor with the same heads and a cross ram intake and it made 571 hp. You'd be looking at over 600 Fairly easily I think as you have more compression, more head and more cam.

I've got a motor thats kind of close to what your building. It's got a bit more compression (13.3:1) and a bit bigger cam and a few less CI's (496). Heres the details using your "form".
Block:
-1974 440 tall fill
-Bored .040
-Decked
-External oil dual line swinging pickup. main bearing “feeds” reamed to 9/32”.
-Line bored and fitted with BCR aluminum main caps
-ARP main studs


Rotating Assembly:
-4.15 stroke Eagle crankshaft.
-H-beam rods, Manley.
-Forged JE Dome pistons with moly ring pack (file fit)
-Clevite bearings
-Balanced assembly

Heads:
-Edelbrock aluminum RPM heads.
-Fully CNC ported by MCH (not max wedge opening)
-Deck surface has been milled

Valvetrain:
-Schnider solid roller cam
-282/286 @50, .693/.684 lift, 108 lsa
-HS roller rockers and shafts
-Pete Jackson gear drive

Miscellaneous:
-Weiand TeamG intake
-Holley 1050 3 circuitDominator
-ATI balancer
-Milodon 10qt “pre 65” pan, swinging pickup and windage tray
-Melling HV oil pump
-Proparts 2” headers (ceramic coated)
-Meziere electric water pump
-Cometic head gaskets

Dyno'd at 679.5 HP at 6500 and 621.6 TQ at 5000 rpm. -Tom.

Thanks for the replies. Rowin4 how heavy is your car & what does it run? dodgeboy11, no victors & no complete set from BCR. As my first post says, I've already got the stuff, & I'm in a recession. T748, that sounds about what I was hoping for. My little 440 makes 570 hp, so I would like to get that 675 mark.

"Heads:
-Edelbrock aluminum, 28 lbs each
-Fully CNC ported by Straightline Performance (not max wedge opening)
-Deck surface has been milled .030 for 78cc combustion chambers"

Straightline Performance does CNC work?

just a reseller

Looks good to me. The small intake runners will keep the power fairly low, and it should live well there.
I am not comfortable with only a seven quart pan though. That is close to the edge. I would put a large line on the oil pressure gauge to make it very sensitive, and keep a very close eye on it.

gregsdart, that sounds like a good idea thanks.

There are several things I don't like on your choices, first is this s arace only or dual purpose motor? If dual I think the cam is to big, probally to big for race only even I would try around(and have) 255 to 265@ .050 on both lobes at 108 installed at 104 second thing is the drilling the block for 1/2 pickup and enlarging the oil main feeds, not needed Are you using full groove main bearings? If no do so, use the Federal Mogul narrow groove truck bearings Last two things is the fill, not needed also if you have a good block I sell both Manton and Smith Bros pushrods, .083 on a roller cam is a disaster waiting to happen, use them on some other project and get a set of 3/8 x .120 wall or larger BTW my pump gas 512(400 block 4.250 x 4.375 bore, 9.25 to 1 compression) using a set of ported 906 heads with big valves made and a Comp Cams [Email]260@.050[/Email] with .420 lobe lift made 612 HP at 5600 RPM and 644 Ft. Lbs at 4500 RPM on CA pump gas using a stock type low deck six pak set up yours should make(with the higher compression) 640+ Hp As far as valve spring pressure try 250 lbs + closed and 600 + Lbs. open

Cab, it's bracket race only, no dual purpose. The cam is one that a buddy had in his 3100 lb Challenger for about 5 years running 10.30's with a stock rod 440 zero deck, iron heads. The .083 pushrod spec is what I've got in my solid cam 440 now, I would need new ones anyhow so that is not a problem. He did use .083 wall pushrods though and never had a failure as far as I know of, (not that it matters)? I have used the full grooved bearings in the past and plan to do so here. I will have my blocks sonic checked and use the best one, but will still fill it I think. Thanks for your input!