Re: Opinions RB Stroker Durability
[Re: Randy514]
#541734
12/01/09 07:45 AM
12/01/09 07:45 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,528 Mansfield, Tx
Jacob Pitt
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,528
Mansfield, Tx
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If I was the builder and wanted the best durability out of the factory block that I could get I would do a half fill of hardblock, main studs, and aluminum main caps. Those are the best things to do to a RB block without getting a race block.
2013 NHRA D4 Stock Champ #4 in the World IHRA Stock 2x IHRA Div.4 Stock Champ 14x Track Champ All using a Ultimate Converter Concepts converter. Call Lenny today 704-892-6837
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Re: Opinions RB Stroker Durability
[Re: AndyF]
#541736
12/01/09 12:57 PM
12/01/09 12:57 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910 Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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Quote:
Lightweight rotating assembly and a perfect balance job will help, but if you're making good power you'll tear the bottom end out of a stock block after awhile. A partial fill will help, aluminum main caps might help, aluminum rods would probably help on a drag motor, etc.
I've been on this board for about 10 years now and over that period of time I think most everyone who is racing with a stock block has eventually had an engine failure.
Andy makes great points and we have seen many broken stock blocks.We are the fortunate ones at BGR since we have been building big and small block as well as Hemi strokers for more years than we can count on our hands and feet and have never had block failure.Rod or main damage or thin cylinders yes,catastrophic block failures,No.I hope I didn't just jinks ourselves.
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Re: Opinions RB Stroker Durability
[Re: B G Racing]
#541738
12/01/09 01:04 PM
12/01/09 01:04 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 976 ontario canada
mac56
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 976
ontario canada
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Quote:
Quote:
Lightweight rotating assembly and a perfect balance job will help, but if you're making good power you'll tear the bottom end out of a stock block after awhile. A partial fill will help, aluminum main caps might help, aluminum rods would probably help on a drag motor, etc.
I've been on this board for about 10 years now and over that period of time I think most everyone who is racing with a stock block has eventually had an engine failure.
Andy makes great points and we have seen many broken stock blocks.We are the fortunate ones at BGR since we have been building big and small block as well as Hemi strokers for more years than we can count on our hands and feet and have never had block failure.Rod or main damage or thin cylinders yes,catastrophic block failures,No.I hope I didn't just jinks ourselves.
What mods do you like to do on your bottom ends to help them live?
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Re: Opinions RB Stroker Durability
[Re: mac56]
#541739
12/01/09 01:17 PM
12/01/09 01:17 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910 Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Lightweight rotating assembly and a perfect balance job will help, but if you're making good power you'll tear the bottom end out of a stock block after awhile. A partial fill will help, aluminum main caps might help, aluminum rods would probably help on a drag motor, etc.
I've been on this board for about 10 years now and over that period of time I think most everyone who is racing with a stock block has eventually had an engine failure.
Andy makes great points and we have seen many broken stock blocks.We are the fortunate ones at BGR since we have been building big and small block as well as Hemi strokers for more years than we can count on our hands and feet and have never had block failure.Rod or main damage or thin cylinders yes,catastrophic block failures,No.I hope I didn't just jinks ourselves.
What mods do you like to do on your bottom ends to help them live?
We have done all of the mods that Andy recommended and then some.We pay attention to every detail.Depending on the power levels and colaberation with the engine owner as to what is done.We have many stock blocks in the 600/700+ hp with little or no modifications.We have never used a girdle on any of our builds
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Re: Opinions RB Stroker Durability
[Re: 493_DART]
#541742
12/01/09 05:35 PM
12/01/09 05:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293 Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
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If those heads flow pretty good, compared to a good set of edelbrock Victors, like they have been copied. Your going to be in the power level were the stock block just wont be enough as mentioned by others. But making under 50 passes a season, it might live a long time. Then again, it might be like my buddies engine. Similar build 500 inch stroker, with a killer set of 440-1's. Aluminum main caps, the whole shooting match. I think it lasted 15 passes before it split wide open.
[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color] [color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
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Re: Opinions RB Stroker Durability
[Re: J_BODY]
#541745
12/01/09 10:08 PM
12/01/09 10:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,154 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Special needs idiot
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Special needs idiot
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,154
Benton, IL.
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I've going on 6 years on my Ohio Crank 499" kit, with only one freshen-up. I drive it a couple of thousand miles a year and race a KOS class about once a month. It dynoed at 520 RWHP and has ran a best of 6.89 and 104.1. The bottom end has iron main caps and, of course, ARP bolts. After reading accounts on here, I am very happy with its durability.
Master, again and still
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Re: Opinions RB Stroker Durability
[Re: J_BODY]
#541746
12/01/09 10:09 PM
12/01/09 10:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,876 Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,876
Weddington, N.C.
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As BG said, there's durability to be found in the DETAILS: Expert Machine work, Highest quality parts, maticulous assembly and attention to the details and skilled tuning go a long way toward building a B/RB stroker that will last. Detonation under LOAD kills more motors than anything else I know. I prefer the B motor over the RB for max effort motors and if you tune and build your motor to keep the peak torque in the 4500-4800 and the peak power in the 6200-6500 range it's likely to last a lot longer than one tuned for 5000/7000+.Stock block failures were pretty rare banck in the days because not many people and combos could get enough head on an RB and because of the restricted ports the torque fell off at a pretty rapid pace as the R's went up....now a days 360-380 CFM heads are pretty commonplace and that's enough to make 700+. IIRC, the first motors I saw having cap walk issues and splitting bores were right about the time the few sets of Zeekers (the forerunner of the Indy-1) started showing up in the ~mid-late 80's. The warning flag is when you get around 630-650 hp for an rb and a bit higher for the 9.98 deck B motor which generally are (though not 100% always) a bit meatier in the main webs. If you keep the head flow around ~325-340CFM you should be pretty safe...if you heed all the machining/parts/tuning advice already mentioned.
Last edited by Streetwize; 12/01/09 10:13 PM.
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