Hi,
I am in the process of putting a 318 in my 66 valiant that had a 225 w/ automatic. I have some questions for the guys that have done the same thing to a 66 dart,valiant or cuda. What headers have you guys had luck with? dougs, hooker,tti? I want ceramic coated and yes i saw the prices already.ouch..lol. i would like headers with a 3" collector and work with automatic linkage and a 904 trans. also what about the center drop link for the steering.. do i need a lower one?
thanks in advance, Kevin

I'm looking at doing a similar swap. 3" may be overkill for a stock 318. From what I understand it is a simple swap. I would check the 904 and make sure everything looks good internally for the added power. I'm really interested on your input during and after the swap.

you need the 64-66 A body V8 center link (which is dropped), an oe 64-66 A body V8 CABLE throttle bracket or a common 67 up throttle bracket/cable & redrill a couple of holes in the firewall. As you know 64-66 A body 273 (V8) motor mounts are needed and the insulators are the same between the /6 & V8(64-66 A body) though most of the time when you buy a set of these V8 motor mounts they come with the rubber insulators as they(the insulators) are very common. There was a good thread yesterday about header choices for this, might see if you can find it.

thanks for the centerlink info, any ideas where to get one?? at the moment the throttle pedal is the least of my worries.. i can conjur something up when i get that far.. I have a pair of motor mount brackets on order from schumacher. and for the headers my engine should be putting out from 275-300hp so i would really prefer 3" collectors

You already have the dropped V8 link on your '66, '65 was the last for the two separate links.

if you are looking for engine mounts and headers i have the hooker semi fender well 5208 coated headers and oringinal engine mounts. Brad

headers they are only 2 1/2 collector. Brad

If you already have this one you're all set. 20 & 15/16 C to C (the outer holes)

I never bolted them on i got the tti headers and the starter they tell you to buy DOES NOT WORK.tti are a time consuming job to put on.they are fender well type some tubes wrap around frame and some tubed follow engine. Brad

I have installed 3 SB's in 65 and 66 (Valiant’s/Dart’s) in the last 2 years.

If you have power steering, I would recommend changing it out before you start. No matter what headers you want to use the PS Unit makes it real tight fit also the "Universal" on the steering rod for the PS unit will get in the way of the header. Dinging up a set of $700.00 headers makes you cringe.

Changing to a Manual Steering will do 2 things for you. 1) you will have more clearance, 2) you will not need to worry on mounting the PS Pump on the engine. 2 Different Style PS Pumps were used. The Original on the 65/66’s were the Federal Pumps, however if your using a water pump newer then a 65/66 you will not be able to mount the pump on the engine. Changing the water pump restricts the flow.

Earlier SB's water pumps outlet is on the driver’s side so finding a Radiator for a 65/66 V8 dart will be hard. The later pumps are on the passenger’s side. 67-68 Barracuda Radiators work well with later Small Blocks water pumps.

I run a 66 Dart with a Mopar 402 Crate, I kept the PS but if I had to do it again it would be out.

I'm using Doug Headers Ceramic coated and they are good quality and fit with minor massaging. Keep in mind the car is close to 45 Years old so thing change a little. Running Dual exhaust will require minor modification to the Trans Cross Member if you want to keep it tucked under. Basic notch cut then weld it back together.

While the I6 Starter will bolt in, you may find it a PITA to change once it is in the car with headers. Change it out for the newer ‘Denso” Starter.

I am running Dual 2 1/4" exhaust with H pipe. The engine pulls hard to 6800 I’m not sure why you would want to go 3".

You will need a V8 904 since the I6 904 has different bell housing. The 904 will hold up to a stout 318/5.2 with a normal rebuild and upto 500 HP if built correctly. If you have "Push Button or Column Shifters" dump them and go to the Floor Shifter. Column shifter linkage will not work, and Push Button Trans for a V8 is a rarity. Trying to get the Throttle Pressure Linkage hooked up correctly is another PITA, I have used LOKAR cables on one, and the other 2 have Manual Valve Bodies in them.

The 7 1/4 will last a few weeks, but start shopping for an A-Body 8 1/4. I'm currently running one with 4.11 sure-grip. It holding fine, but if it goes, I'll go to ford 9". Cheaper and more available then an A-Body 8 3/4, leave them for the restorers. I have one if you know anyone needing one.

Driveshaft length will depend on the Tranny and Rear but you will need a different one. You will not know the required length until you get your combo together.

Front brakes should be upgraded to disks since the drums will be questionable once the car gets rolling. At a minimum you will want to upgrade to a Dual master.

If you’re getting a 5.2 vice a 318 there is a difference in the balancing, so you will need a torque converter for a 5.2 or you can get a FlexPlate to use a neutral converter. 5.9's and 360's have the same requirement.

You will need a 90 Degree Oil Adapter.

Schumacher has the Mounts that you need, you will find that the Rubber Mounts provided are thinner then the /6’s. However you can use either one.

Even with the V8 Center link you may have some interference with the Oil pan. You will find out once it is all put together and you crank the steering lock to lock. A quick hit with a 3lb Ball Peen will correct those issues. Do Not DRIVE it with it hitting, it will only take a few time until you dump you oil in the middle of the street. DAMHIK

Good Luck and Have Fun.

wow, lots of info..
i dont have power steering and dont plan on it.
i do have the older water pump on it...
glad to hear dougs headers are nice, there were my first choice, and my car sits up high, not to worried about tucking in the exhaust, i do already have a mini starter.
as for the 3" exhaust.. i went from 2 1/4 to 3 on my duster with a basically stock 360 and it took off 3/10ths at the track... just everything i built i put 3" on.
I was already running an 8 3/4 in it out of a B-body when i pulled everything, so the driveshaft should be the same as long as i use the 904.
I will have to post some pics tonight when i get home from work, thanks guys

In my opinion, 3 inch collector is not really needed at your desired power level. I've got a 65 Barracuda with a 360, auto, bla, bla, bla with a set of "D" Dart headers; I've gone 11.14 so far and I don't think my headers are holding me up. Bigger might be nice, but there are alot more important things to be looking at than collector size.

Good luck,

Jim Burch

here is a pic of the car

here is the engine, good ole 318

Yes you will need a V8 dropped centelink like the one in my pic. That beats a cherry picker all to heck That is an excellently detailed eng (sure you dont want to add a 4" crank before you drop it in).