JF_Moparts - get rid of those KYB and get you good shocks (Koni's etc.), those KYB are pure junk! You will be amazed by the difference of only changing the shocks! Otherwise that setup should ride good but those shocks are way to cheap for this setup!

Tony - Are those street tires or racing tires? I never found a good street tire for 15" with 255, 275, 295 or even wider!? If I compair the Radial T/A junk I got now it's a joke compaired to the modern tire my friend rides on his 18" on his 72 RR! This summer he beat most guys with 2x stronger cars (he got a 100% stock 340 and 3.23) on the 1/8mile because he got an uncomparaible grip with those modern tires! With 99% of the 15" street tires out there you just have a very bad grip..
So that's the reason why I will junk those 15".. also the street driving feeling is VERY different in my opinion... a 17" car feel much more stable when driving than a soft 15"... we drove in that car with 100-120mph (sometimes it was even raining) on the german autobahn back home, NO WAY I had be able to do that with those 15" I have! Totally different car, although suspension & car is the same...
But this is my opinion...

Toyo makes a 295 50 15 Proxies ST , HR rated tires I run on my Bee , with 225 60 15 Toyo TPT on the front .It drives awsome now ..., Way better than Bf Goodriches I had B4 .Ill try to post a pic but I cant seem to reduce the size of the picture to send . Toyo also makes a 275 60 15 in the St also .

I'd like to hear about everyones tire and suspension setup and how it responds. I might have gone with the Toyo's if I only knew that they offerd my size.

When I get the 1.22"/Koni/15" Yokohama combo on the road soon, I will be sure to let everyone know.

Here is my Bee ,.96 T bars , tube upper controll arm ,boxed lower arms , HD shackles , poly spring eye ,1 1/8 front sway , 3/4 rear sway , frame comectors , .3 neg camber ,3.7 pos castor .020 toe in ,Toyo proxies ,factory 73 disk drilled carbon fiber pads and shoes . 451 stroker eddy heads Passion alloy trans case using a low gear set in trans and a 3.23 sure grip . 3460 lbs W.O. me . KYB shocks for now , looking at Qa1s tho . Its a very nice canyon car , and pulls grades like a beast .

We've had a number of requests to de-content our kit and offer some of the sub-components.

So XV Level I light, with T-bars, leafs and shocks.

As well as sway bars, strut rods, bushings, etc, individually.

Just need to makethe time to pull it together and cut up pics.

Let me know if there is enough interest and I'll make the time to do it asap. Also, what groups of products, if any. Only thing I am really hesitant on is the shocks and leafs by themselves as I don't know how they will work with other combos - especially in the rear. I'm guessing SS springs and our shocks will get you ice skates!

Anyway, let me know and I'll make the time to finish it up and get it out there.

John

Im starting a 72 Runner project and Im looking at going this route below. I want a car that rides nice handles great put the baby seats in the rear and take the family out for a cruise. There should be enough power with a big block in the car.

Fitted Subframe Connectors welded in

XV Inner Fender, Engine compartment Brace and Radiator Support Brace

Firm Feel Reinforced K member, reinforced LCA's and Tubular A arms, Front end kit with all Poly, Greasable LCA pins, 11/16 tie rods seamless and Firm Feel power box at level 2.

XV T bars,leafs and shocks

1 1/4" front sway bar and a 3/4" rear sway bar.

Looking at AndyF's late model Viper front brakes on 13" rotors

Rear will be a S60 from Dr Diff with a set of SVO rear disk brakes on the rear if it will clear a rear sway bar.

Be nice if the new Challenger has some 17" wheels and some nice rubber to run on the car?

Or these look nice too:
http://fikse.com/fm5.html

Hey Peter how well do the subframe connectors fit on the 71 72 Plymouth B body?

The US Car Tool site says the ones they sell are the same as the E body units with a small difference the way the rear frame is in the car. A modification is required of the one they sell to fit the 71/72 B's

Im thinking we are going to find out soon how well they fit.

nice combo, pretty alike what I will do!

I will start to fit the US Tools subframe connectors on my 72 Satellite in 1-2 weeks... I will let you know how well they fit.. I also saw that they need to be modified from the e-body types... but it didn't look to hard.

Otherwise I got:

From the guy from Bigblockdart upper tubular control arms (with ball-endlinks), ball-endlink strut rods

- reinforced LCA
- reinforced k-member from FF
- 1.22" Tbars
- red Konis all the way
- Fiberglass rear leafsprigns 200lbs/"
- Everywhere poly except LCA, there I go rubber
- FF biggest front swaybar I could get
- No rear swaybar (will first need to test drive the car)
- right now 11.75" setup but will probably go with AndyF his 13" Viperkit.
- subframe connectors from US Tools
- 6 point rollcage
- XV front inner fender braces, radiator support brace and the braces that are on the top like the 72's had.

Yeah, that's about it...

Oh and I got the FF 2 stage box since 2 years... really great, BUT I wish I had taken then stage 3! Stage 2 is like my daily european driver car, for a really sporty feeling I guess the stage 3 is the way to go!

Here are some more details of my setup:

For a very detailed write-up, feel free to read this:
http://episteme.arstechnica.com/eve/foru...31#418006513831


1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring

Front:
15" American Racing Hurricane II Rims
245/60-15 Yokohama ST's (decent enough for city driving)
Factory lower control arms
Magnum Force tubular upper control arms
(E-Berg) '73 disk knuckles w/ 11.75 police rotors
KYB shocks
1 1/8" Anti sway bar
PST polygraphite bushings, all around
203 lb/inch torsion bars (1.03" diameter)
Thicker C-body tie rod ends
Firm feel steering box
Fast ratio pitman & idler arms

Rear:
15" American Racing Hurricane II Rims
245/60-15 Yokohama ST's
Factory Hemi HD leaf springs
KYB shocks

Body:
Direct Connection Mopar frame connectors, circa 1993. Welded in.


I agree with one of the above posts that the KYBs aren't ideal, but I was unable to find Koni's when I was shopping. Where are Koni's available?

Another question for the suspension guys - I had always assumed that torsion bars had a much longer lifespan than did coil springs, but do they begin to lose their rigidity after a certain number of miles? I've been using my torsion bars for about 16 years now and the front end doesn't feel as firm. For the record, I just rebuilt the front suspension in January 2007.


For those trying to associate torsion bar spring rates with thickness - here are the numbers from an old catalog (California Suspension, 1990) that used to sell various torsion bars for Mopars:

41" long bars (B body up to 1972, all E body)

Diameter / Spring (wheel) Rate
1.03 / 203
1.08 / 245
1.14 / 305
1.20 / 374
1.24 / 427

43" long bars (B body 1973-up)

Diameter / Spring (wheel) Rate
1.14 / 225

35.8" long bars (A body)

Diameter / Spring (wheel) Rate
1.03 / 200
1.08 / 242
1.14 / 300
1.20 / 370
1.24 / 420

- Jim

You can buy koni shocks here:
http://www.firmfeel.com/

Strange Engineering also has some nice looking single and double adjustable shocks here:
http://www.strangeengineering.net/newprod/2006/MoparMuscle.html

Lets hear what the suspension guys have to say about T bar life...........

Who makes them QA1's and who makes the Strange shocks?

What is the better pricing QA1 or Strange double adjustables?

I haven't seen you post in awhile, have you had you car on the road with the 1.22" TB, and how did you like like it? I am a big believer in macho TB's, anything under 1" is for girls, but a 1.22" on the street makes me pause, so what do you think? MoparKid has a set, but not yet driving, I have a set on the shelf, but you guys go first

Is it also a good idea to add in a set of Torque Boxes to stiffen up the unibody?

Where are these located exactly? Heard of them and any pictures of them or installations would be helpful

I am now counting the days until I get my junk on the road.

I tried to reindex the bars today, but I decided that I am going try again with a little help right before it goes to the alignment shop. The torsion bars were being particularly meatheaded today (or maybe it was me, I don't know..) Either way, they didn't want to go in any way except the way they came out despite countless tries to get the two hexes lined up. I tried getting the LCA to the ride height I thought that I wanted, and fought to get the bar in. No amount of running up the adjuster helped..

I would have kept going, but I have to have the car ready for trailer duty, so I didn't bother fighting it or taking too much apart.