Thinking I will get the whole new front floor 70 E body with the flange? The GoodMark are less $$ are they realy not as good?
The thing I do not get is why they have 2-3 venders for the same parts and other things need to be made.

If I was doing this, I'd choose the AMD 70 only floor. 70 has the extra lip around the edge to fasten to the car. 71-74 does not have this lip because it attaches to a ledge on the rocker instead. If you put a 71-74 floor (which is what most repro's seem to be designed after) in a 70 then you'll have to leave the 70 floor lip + a little intact so that you have something to weld to.
I've heard of guys removing their entire 70 floor only to find out their aftermarket floor didn't have enough material around the edge to fasten onto the car. Bummer, they had to do some fabricating.

If you're particular to this sort of thing, 71-74 floors also have some different contours/humps, etc. that are not present on the 70 only style floor. They don't affect the function of the floor, but if you know what to look for, you could see that the floor had been changed.

I'll try to post more here soon and include some pics.

Tav

This is a 70 Challenger. Pic taken just inside the driver kick panel. (The sheetmetal here is identical to what was used on a 70 barracuda.)

The rusty piece of metal on top of the floor is an aftermarket 71-74 style floor.

You can see in this pic that the 70 floor has a vertical bent lip to attach to the rest of the car.

The 71-74 floor does not have this vertical lip. On the 71-74 cars the rocker was redesigned with a ledge for the floor to sit on top of.

So, if you're putting a 71-74 floor into a 70 car, make sure to leave enough of the original 70 floor to weld to. The 70 cars don't have a ledge on the rocker for the 71-74 floor to sit on top of.

This info applies to the rear floor pans also.

Tav

This is a 74 Challenger. Typical of 71-74 Challenger & Barracuda. (convertibles use a thick extra reinforcement plate inside the rocker, but are otherwise similar)

In this pic you can see the ledge on the rocker that the 71-74 floor sits on top of.

70 cars don't have this ledge on the rocker and rely on the floors vertical lip to attach to the car.

Tav

Here is a 1970 floor with an aftermarket 71-74 style manual transmission hump installed. This clearly illustrates a floor contour difference between the 70 vs the 71-74. This difference does not affect the fit of the floor, or it's function, but is visible from under the car just behind the torsion bar crossmember if you know what you're looking for.

Tav

I think he was talking about quality mostly. I bought a full floor from goodmark from a dealer on ebay. IT was right after christmas and I got it plus the rear footwells for $345 then another $145 to ship. I couldn't pass up the deal. I talked to a local body guy and he says there stuff is either really nice or needs to be modified. I haven't had the time to put the floor in yet, but it looks real nice and i don't see any quaility issues so far.

This is of the floor with some still on the sides but the patches were to short {body shop }
I see what you meen I went and looked at the car today at my dads place.
The edges have an up and over like an up side down L
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Challenger%20floor/floor11.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/fast340six/Challenger%20floor/challengerfloor5_22036279.jpg

I have 1970 rear foot wells from AMD. Goodmark outside wheel wells,AMD inners,Goodmark full quarters but not for a vert.
Now looking at not spending the time to cut out,blast/epoxy prime and pacth up used stuff,I have enough to do/get done.
So it is 1970 with the lips for front floor and under seat area.
From AMD,Goodmark or Sherman
Signed owner of the Fred Flinstone Challenger...Yabba Dabba Doo

Here's an aftermarket 71-74 style floor. (it's installed in a 70 car and the body plug holes haven't been drilled yet, but it still shows what I would like to point out)

When you compare this floor to the 1970 floor pictured above, you can see some other contour differences, particularly in the ribbing under the drivers feet. Again, this doesn't affect fit or function, it's just a noticeable difference for those who know what to look for. For years a correct 70 floor was not available and a lot of 70 cars have had to use this type of floor.

Tav

kevin, go with the amd stuff
for a couple of reasons..
first, goodmark has sold us in the hobby crap for
many years
the ONLY reason they have gottin better and stepped up thier game is because if they didn't they would be put out of buisness by amd,not because they want to make a better product.
i refuse to use them on that reason alone.
i've seen alot of amd products up close personally and
have used a few and they
get the from me.
amd all the way

Front floor pans are the same on Barracuda & Challenger. The only difference would be the year, 70 vs. later. (If you're getting a used floor from a parts car, you'd also want to consider manual vs auto trans, & console vs no console.)

Rear floor pans have the 70 vs. later difference, + they are also different on Barracuda vs. Challenger. The Challenger has a two inch longer wheelbase. On the bottom of the car, the Challengers extra two inches are a flat strip of metal which is at the leading edge of the rear floor pan. Challengers also have an extra body plug on each side of the car within that 2 inch flat section.

To put Challenger rear floor pans in a Barracuda, you'd need to cut two inches off.

To put Barracuda rear floor pans in a Challenger, you'd have to weld in an extra two inches across the front.


(just a note: On the side of a Challenger the extra two inches are between the rear wheelwell & the door. On the top of a Challenger the extra two inches are mostly in the C pillar, but the whole roof is different, so it's hard to compare.)

Tav

I'm pretty sure that the new floor pan will be just the floor pan. There are several things you'll need to move over onto the new one from your original.

Bucket seat reinforcements (big square plates around seat holes)

Speedo cable retaining tab (below drivers feet)

Dimmer switch holes.

console / shifter brackets. (be careful to get these in the right spot!)

And on the rear floor pans...
Seat belt reinforcements (rectangular plate threaded for seat belt bolt)

Parking Brake Cable Guide

Tav

The 1970 parking brake uses a long cable that splits into two cables on the drivers side near the rear end.

Tav

1970 parking brake cable routing from a different angle.

Tav

The 71-74 parking brake setup splits into two cables closer to the front of the car & uses a single cable bracket on each rear frame rail instead of having the double bracket on the driver rear frame rail like 70.

Tav

Here's another pic of the 71-74 setup.

Tav

I hope that helps.

Need anything else?

Tav

Well I am doing my first floor pan on a 70 Challenger conv. I went to a couple shows and really looked at the different vendors and found the AMD stuff was really nice. The Goodmark floors seemed a bit thin and in comparison a little flimsy. However, the AMD is more costly. I ended up ordering a full 70 front floor with flanges and the right and left mid floor pans.

Once I had the old pans drilled and out of the way, I test fit my new sheet metal and it fell in place. So my two cents would be to order the correct pan so there is less head aches. The AMD pans I got should just be a matter of plug welding a few dozen holes and then I will be finished. I have had a couple other Mopar guys come over and check out my AMD pans and they also thought they were pretty nice. Floor pans seem to take quite a beating and I did not want to have to do it again, so I went with the AMD stuff. I think you would be too once you get over the price. Heres a pic of mine laid in there.