Re: Distributer modifying
[Re: RapidRobert]
#446712
08/23/09 09:11 AM
08/23/09 09:11 AM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
JimG
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
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Rapid Robert and others: Slightly OT, but this chart has been floating around Moparts for some time: dist. degrees X 2 + initial= total dist. degrees / slot size 6.............. .340 7............... .355 8............... .375 9............... .390 10.............. .405 11.5 ........... .420 12.............. .435 13.............. .445 14.............. .460 15.............. .475 16.............. .490 17.............. .505 18.............. .520 Last week I used the chart for the first time (in the past, I just used the trial-and-error method - kept filing until I had the slot length correct). I needed 8.5 distributor degrees, and ended up needing a slot that was around .410" to get it.  I checked it with 2 different timing lights (a dialback Snap-On and a non-adjustable Craftsman with a timing tape). I've recently read about timing lights being inaccurate at high RPM, but both timing lights agreed w/each other, FWIW. My question: has anyone confirmed the accuracy of the chart? And if the chart is accurate, what am I missing? This certainly seems simple enough... Thanks, Jim
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Re: Distributer modifying
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#446715
08/23/09 09:51 AM
08/23/09 09:51 AM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 671
Wisconsin USA
Bill MeLater
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 671
Wisconsin USA
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Quote:
Only if you don't run it on the street! 
Absolutely correct, this modification is for street use only...And strip.
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Re: Distributer modifying
[Re: JimG]
#446716
08/23/09 10:10 AM
08/23/09 10:10 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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JimG thanks for the heads up as I'm going to be using the chart for the first time here real soon.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Distributer modifying
[Re: Bill MeLater]
#446717
08/23/09 10:19 AM
08/23/09 10:19 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 846
Illinois
moparmattkos
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 846
Illinois
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Quote:
While you're at it, do yourself a favor and very carefully remove the vacuum canister, smash it flat with a hammer, throw it in the garbage and weld these two plates together. Your motor will thank you for it.. 
This method locks the timing advance currect? How many areas does it needed to be welded at? do you have to set anything else or just take the advance off and springs off and weld the plates?
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Re: Distributer modifying
[Re: RapidRobert]
#446718
08/23/09 10:22 AM
08/23/09 10:22 AM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
JimG
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
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Quote:
JimG thanks for the heads up as I'm going to be using the chart for the first time here real soon.
Robert:
Shout back with your results.
Thanks,
Jim
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Re: Distributer modifying
[Re: moparmattkos]
#446719
08/23/09 10:25 AM
08/23/09 10:25 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Quote:
While you're at it, do yourself a favor and very carefully remove the vacuum canister, smash it flat with a hammer, throw it in the garbage and weld these two plates together. Your motor will thank you for it..
This method locks the timing advance currect? How many areas does it needed to be welded at? do you have to set anything else or just take the advance off and springs off and weld the plates?
As much as it pains me to bring this up--because I think the problem is vastly overblown-- when/if you weld an advance plate, CHECK the rotor phasing, and make sure with a reluctor that where you end up with the plate that you have enough range to properly adjust the reluctor gap.
IF you look the plate over, you'll find that the two "sit" parallel on two little shoes. You need to make sure this is OK before you tack it together. Doesn't take much to hold it but it DOES need to be correct.
Just me, but if I was going to all this work in this day 'n age, I'd go aftermarket.
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Re: Distributer modifying
#446721
08/23/09 10:33 AM
08/23/09 10:33 AM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 671
Wisconsin USA
Bill MeLater
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 671
Wisconsin USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
While you're at it, do yourself a favor and very carefully remove the vacuum canister, smash it flat with a hammer, throw it in the garbage and weld these two plates together. Your motor will thank you for it..
This method locks the timing advance currect? How many areas does it needed to be welded at? do you have to set anything else or just take the advance off and springs off and weld the plates?
As much as it pains me to bring this up--because I think the problem is vastly overblown-- when/if you weld an advance plate, CHECK the rotor phasing, and make sure with a reluctor that where you end up with the plate that you have enough range to properly adjust the reluctor gap.
IF you look the plate over, you'll find that the two "sit" parallel on two little shoes. You need to make sure this is OK before you tack it together. Doesn't take much to hold it but it DOES need to be correct.
Just me, but if I was going to all this work in this day 'n age, I'd go aftermarket.
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Re: Distributer modifying
[Re: JimG]
#446723
08/23/09 12:58 PM
08/23/09 12:58 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,888
Oregon
hooziewhatsit
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,888
Oregon
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I welded up the thingy in my 318 distributor, and observed results like the chart says. In fact, originally, the stock heavy spring was heavy enough, it was acting as an advance limiter  (I never go over 3k; work truck). If you take out the vac advance and weld that plate in place, you'll lose any advance from the vacuum. You'll still have mechanical advance. The only benefit to doing this would be to keep the plate from jittering around and bouncing the timing. Or, if it's solely a race engine. For the street, I'd tune it so it works 
If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
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