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You guy's all crack me up

You can spend 20-30 grand or even more on
your ride, but can't spend $1500 or a little more,
for a good safe block. Think on the safty side of it.

Only if 440source would of made a block, right?
But now they are having problems with the
water pump housing they sell.

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I think you guys are looking at it all wrong!....... Most people start out with for an example lets say about $10,000 to spend on a engine and this is what they have to spend...... So I can see why someone wants to maximize there dollar I dont thinks its about $1500 more thing! I mean alot of guys love the sport and will do whatever to go racing

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Just giving an option..And opinion here Bob..

Not saying who is right or wrong.

Am only going by what I have personally seen..


Chris.. [/quot

I appreciate that and I'm sorry if I sounded offensive but at some point it gets to be a safety issue. IMO those blocks were not engineered for the kind of power today's heads allow and when you talk about throwing nitrous on top if it things can get ugly real fast.

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If I had a 230 block laying around that already had been machined and had the caps and I was building a 600hp bracket motor I'd use it no problem. If I was starting from scratch and was looking to build 800+hp no way I'm using a 400 block.

There was a time when those blocks were used out of necessity. With all of the blocks now available that time has passed.

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That combo may likely last longer in a dragster than a heavy street car. Just like an 8 3/4..takes alot more grunting to move a 2 ton than a 1 ton.

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How do you figure this?
Were not talking 8 3/4 rears LOL
The engine doesnt know what its in, or cares for that matter.

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Its just common sense. If the crank is working harder to turn the shaft there will be more flexing... and thats what tears those blocks up.

In this scenario, both cars would have the same gearing and trans. The lighter car runs faster because the motor is doing less "work" to move it. The motor is subject to the laws of physics just like you or I. Thats all I'm saying.

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Sorry My common sense must be broken
How does it work harder, and make more stress?
If the engine makes 800 hp, and you shift it a 7K in car A weighs 3800 lbs.
Car be weighs 2000 lbs. The engine still makes 800hp, and the torque and power range doesnt change, so you shift it again at 7K
Explain to me in lamens terms how it works harder to achieve the same power level?
Were not looking at E/T time slips here, acceleration, 60 ft times...No increments.
How does the engine live longer in the lighter car?
If this were true they would never blow up on the dyno. The engine see's the load and tries to move it.

I have had some in depth college Physics classes, i dont see how weight of a vehicle or chassis setup can effect engine longevity.

Just a friendly debate here..

IMO vehicle size has nothing to due with the stability of a engine. Things like bearing clearance, and bore thickness, detonation does however.

Just think about what your trying to say.

If told you the weight of a vehicle in theory has little to do with max top end speed given a perfectly flat surface you would also think I am

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That combo may likely last longer in a dragster than a heavy street car. Just like an 8 3/4..takes alot more grunting to move a 2 ton than a 1 ton.

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How do you figure this?
Were not talking 8 3/4 rears LOL
The engine doesnt know what its in, or cares for that matter.

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Its just common sense. If the crank is working harder to turn the shaft there will be more flexing... and thats what tears those blocks up.

In this scenario, both cars would have the same gearing and trans. The lighter car runs faster because the motor is doing less "work" to move it. The motor is subject to the laws of physics just like you or I. Thats all I'm saying.

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Sorry My common sense must be broken
How does it work harder, and make more stress?
If the engine makes 800 hp, and you shift it a 7K in car A weighs 3800 lbs.
Car be weighs 2000 lbs. The engine still makes 800hp, and the torque and power range doesnt change, so you shift it again at 7K
Explain to me in lamens terms how it works harder to achieve the same power level?
Were not looking at E/T time slips here, acceleration, 60 ft times...No increments.
How does the engine live longer in the lighter car?
If this were true they would never blow up on the dyno. The engine see's the load and tries to move it.

I have had some in depth college Physics classes, i dont see how weight of a vehicle or chassis setup can effect engine longevity.

Just a friendly debate here..

IMO vehicle size has nothing to due with the stability of a engine. Things like bearing clearance, and bore thickness, detonation does however.

Just think about what your trying to say.

If told you the weight of a vehicle in theory has little to do with max top end speed given a perfectly flat surface you would also think I am

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P.S. Want to go in the 8's real quick? My pro stock hemi can be had for "just a little" more than a B-1 set-up.

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Ruh Roh...You know we might like to try S/ST at 165 and then be able to run T/S with the same bulletWith NO BOTTLE I'm just saying

As for my engine, well we may be calling Mr Pettis real soon to see if we can squeak a bit more out of the ole gal...

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The lowdeck allows a lighter rotating assembly. First off, it WILL be lighter, maybe not a ton when in an all aluminum block, but the rotating weight reduction alone is worth it, not to mention you have a touch more room for stuff in the engine bay. Pushrods get shorter, con rods get shorter,bearings get less stress, rod/stroke ratio improves for huge heads, sounds like enough to me with those items alone. We do need an aluminum low deck option.

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The lowdeck allows a lighter rotating assembly. First off, it WILL be lighter, maybe not a ton when in an all aluminum block, but the rotating weight reduction alone is worth it, not to mention you have a touch more room for stuff in the engine bay. Pushrods get shorter, con rods get shorter,bearings get less stress, rod/stroke ratio improves for huge heads, sounds like enough to me with those items alone. We do need an aluminum low deck option.

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I've done aluminum rod tall deck 572's with 2000g bobweights. Rod/Stroke ratio on a drag engine is almost an insignificant consideration. The short rod/long stroke combo (meaning higher side loading) with the pistons hanging way out the bottom of the cylinder are more of a concern than that. I'm not arguing, just wondering why everyone feels they need a low deck combo.

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We never run a power adder ever. Have you seen
the price of a Word aluminum race block? $7800.00

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World had their aluminum blocks on sale recently for $3,995