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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: mayhem148]
#442576
08/19/09 07:29 AM
08/19/09 07:29 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 866
Winnipeg ,Mb. CA.
chryco
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 866
Winnipeg ,Mb. CA.
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Ally blocks KB at least have superior strength as well as optimized oiling compared to iron . They are easier to repair not to mention the weight savings.
Gas is fer washin' parts ....Alky`s fer drinkin' ...Nitro`s fer Racin'!
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: mayhem148]
#442578
08/19/09 08:57 AM
08/19/09 08:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442579
08/19/09 09:35 AM
08/19/09 09:35 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
I agree. There may be some here chime in about thermo/power loss. That's all BS. There may be some cylinder movement that can slightly affect ring seal but it's minimal compared to the advantages aluminum has over iron.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442580
08/19/09 02:51 PM
08/19/09 02:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
BIG BEAR
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
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Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
Do you think that alumium is as strong as iron?
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BIG BEAR]
#442581
08/19/09 02:57 PM
08/19/09 02:57 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
juicedcuda
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
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And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda
1970 Plum Crazy "Gold Duster"
1973 Gold Duster
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BobR]
#442582
08/19/09 04:05 PM
08/19/09 04:05 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
I agree. There may be some here chime in about thermo/power loss. That's all BS. There may be some cylinder movement that can slightly affect ring seal but it's minimal compared to the advantages aluminum has over iron.
If your running a N/A motor with NO power adders then the aluminum may be the way to go, maybe not if you can't afford to lose a certian amount percentage wise of the total HP attainable. MY example is Pro Stock, they can run any block material they want, once they lobby NHRA for it, and all of them are using Compact Graphite Iron blocks not aluminum   
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#442583
08/19/09 04:15 PM
08/19/09 04:15 PM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
Hemiroid
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
I agree. There may be some here chime in about thermo/power loss. That's all BS. There may be some cylinder movement that can slightly affect ring seal but it's minimal compared to the advantages aluminum has over iron.
If your running a N/A motor with NO power adders then the aluminum may be the way to go, maybe not if you can't afford to lose a certian amount percentage wise of the total HP attainable. MY example is Pro Stock, they can run any block material they want, once they lobby NHRA for it, and all of them are using Compact Graphite Iron blocks not aluminum
If you're running a n/a motor that's not heads up, then the aluminum is probably the way to go. Even in a heads up situation, taking that weight off of the nose of the car and the overall weight savings coupled with repairability probably make aluminum the best choice even with the slight loss of hp in the ring seal. The new world iron blocks, without cnc lightening weigh like 200 lbs more than a alum block! 
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: juicedcuda]
#442585
08/19/09 05:01 PM
08/19/09 05:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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No problems cruising an aluminum block on the street. Most of the cars on the road today have aluminum blocks. Mine's been on the street and strip for 3+ years w/ no problems. All the pro mods I've seen run aluminum blocks. They are billet, but still aluminum. My good friend has a big NASTY BB Chevy ex pro mod motor that's a cast aluminum block. Another good friend has a 540" Jim Oddy blower motor that made some ridiculous power... aluminum block. The CGI blocks may be the best for making power, but the majority of the time you'd rather have the weight savings of aluminum. Regular cast iron really shouldn't be an option for you unless cost is a factor. CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: juicedcuda]
#442587
08/19/09 10:29 PM
08/19/09 10:29 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442588
08/20/09 08:11 AM
08/20/09 08:11 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell?  CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442589
08/20/09 09:07 AM
08/20/09 09:07 AM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442590
08/20/09 09:14 AM
08/20/09 09:14 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
Aluminum blocks are every bit as reliable as iron. All the GM LS1, LS2, LS6 and LS7 blocks are aluminum. Many of the import high perf blocks are aluminum as well. I have an aluminum block on my Cobra replica-4 years and running with zero problems. The NHRA pro stock guys use compacted graphite blocks but the IHRA guys all use aluminum for their mountain motors.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BobR]
#442591
08/20/09 09:27 AM
08/20/09 09:27 AM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
Aluminum blocks are every bit as reliable as iron. All the GM LS1, LS2, LS6 and LS7 blocks are aluminum. Many of the import high perf blocks are aluminum as well. I have an aluminum block on my Cobra replica-4 years and running with zero problems. The NHRA pro stock guys use compacted graphite blocks but the IHRA guys all use aluminum for their mountain motors.
you did not name 1 mopar block[aluminum aftermarket].i am not trying to argue but learn from this post.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442592
08/20/09 09:37 AM
08/20/09 09:37 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
Aluminum blocks are every bit as reliable as iron. All the GM LS1, LS2, LS6 and LS7 blocks are aluminum. Many of the import high perf blocks are aluminum as well. I have an aluminum block on my Cobra replica-4 years and running with zero problems. The NHRA pro stock guys use compacted graphite blocks but the IHRA guys all use aluminum for their mountain motors.
you did not name 1 mopar block[aluminum aftermarket].i am not trying to argue but learn from this post.
Holds true for these as well. A couple have vouched for their aluminum block's integrity. My post was just vouching for the integrity of aluminum in general.
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_blocks.htm
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442594
08/20/09 10:02 AM
08/20/09 10:02 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
The old aluminum blocks had wet sleeves with O-rings that sometimes leaked. Not anymore, they now use dry sleeves and have done so for many years. So no worries about leaking water.  CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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