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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: mayhem148]
#442576
08/19/09 07:29 AM
08/19/09 07:29 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 866
Winnipeg ,Mb. CA.
chryco
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 866
Winnipeg ,Mb. CA.
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Ally blocks KB at least have superior strength as well as optimized oiling compared to iron . They are easier to repair not to mention the weight savings.
Gas is fer washin' parts ....Alky`s fer drinkin' ...Nitro`s fer Racin'!
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: mayhem148]
#442578
08/19/09 08:57 AM
08/19/09 08:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442579
08/19/09 09:35 AM
08/19/09 09:35 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
I agree. There may be some here chime in about thermo/power loss. That's all BS. There may be some cylinder movement that can slightly affect ring seal but it's minimal compared to the advantages aluminum has over iron.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442580
08/19/09 02:51 PM
08/19/09 02:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
BIG BEAR
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
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Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
Do you think that alumium is as strong as iron?
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BIG BEAR]
#442581
08/19/09 02:57 PM
08/19/09 02:57 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
juicedcuda
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
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And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda
1970 Plum Crazy "Gold Duster"
1973 Gold Duster
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BobR]
#442582
08/19/09 04:05 PM
08/19/09 04:05 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,173
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
I agree. There may be some here chime in about thermo/power loss. That's all BS. There may be some cylinder movement that can slightly affect ring seal but it's minimal compared to the advantages aluminum has over iron.
If your running a N/A motor with NO power adders then the aluminum may be the way to go, maybe not if you can't afford to lose a certian amount percentage wise of the total HP attainable. MY example is Pro Stock, they can run any block material they want, once they lobby NHRA for it, and all of them are using Compact Graphite Iron blocks not aluminum   
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#442583
08/19/09 04:15 PM
08/19/09 04:15 PM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
Hemiroid
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Aluminum is light, easily repairable if windowed, and you can resleeve if you hurt a cylinder. The ONLY downside is the cost.
Cast iron is heavy, it's a boat anchor if you window it, sure you CAN sleeve it, but not like an aluminum block.
In my opinion, if you have the money...there is only one way to go. That's why I have a KB block in my cuda. CHIP
I agree. There may be some here chime in about thermo/power loss. That's all BS. There may be some cylinder movement that can slightly affect ring seal but it's minimal compared to the advantages aluminum has over iron.
If your running a N/A motor with NO power adders then the aluminum may be the way to go, maybe not if you can't afford to lose a certian amount percentage wise of the total HP attainable. MY example is Pro Stock, they can run any block material they want, once they lobby NHRA for it, and all of them are using Compact Graphite Iron blocks not aluminum
If you're running a n/a motor that's not heads up, then the aluminum is probably the way to go. Even in a heads up situation, taking that weight off of the nose of the car and the overall weight savings coupled with repairability probably make aluminum the best choice even with the slight loss of hp in the ring seal. The new world iron blocks, without cnc lightening weigh like 200 lbs more than a alum block! 
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: juicedcuda]
#442585
08/19/09 05:01 PM
08/19/09 05:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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No problems cruising an aluminum block on the street. Most of the cars on the road today have aluminum blocks. Mine's been on the street and strip for 3+ years w/ no problems. All the pro mods I've seen run aluminum blocks. They are billet, but still aluminum. My good friend has a big NASTY BB Chevy ex pro mod motor that's a cast aluminum block. Another good friend has a 540" Jim Oddy blower motor that made some ridiculous power... aluminum block. The CGI blocks may be the best for making power, but the majority of the time you'd rather have the weight savings of aluminum. Regular cast iron really shouldn't be an option for you unless cost is a factor. CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: juicedcuda]
#442587
08/19/09 10:29 PM
08/19/09 10:29 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442588
08/20/09 08:11 AM
08/20/09 08:11 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell?  CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442589
08/20/09 09:07 AM
08/20/09 09:07 AM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442590
08/20/09 09:14 AM
08/20/09 09:14 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
Aluminum blocks are every bit as reliable as iron. All the GM LS1, LS2, LS6 and LS7 blocks are aluminum. Many of the import high perf blocks are aluminum as well. I have an aluminum block on my Cobra replica-4 years and running with zero problems. The NHRA pro stock guys use compacted graphite blocks but the IHRA guys all use aluminum for their mountain motors.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BobR]
#442591
08/20/09 09:27 AM
08/20/09 09:27 AM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
Aluminum blocks are every bit as reliable as iron. All the GM LS1, LS2, LS6 and LS7 blocks are aluminum. Many of the import high perf blocks are aluminum as well. I have an aluminum block on my Cobra replica-4 years and running with zero problems. The NHRA pro stock guys use compacted graphite blocks but the IHRA guys all use aluminum for their mountain motors.
you did not name 1 mopar block[aluminum aftermarket].i am not trying to argue but learn from this post.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442592
08/20/09 09:37 AM
08/20/09 09:37 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
Aluminum blocks are every bit as reliable as iron. All the GM LS1, LS2, LS6 and LS7 blocks are aluminum. Many of the import high perf blocks are aluminum as well. I have an aluminum block on my Cobra replica-4 years and running with zero problems. The NHRA pro stock guys use compacted graphite blocks but the IHRA guys all use aluminum for their mountain motors.
you did not name 1 mopar block[aluminum aftermarket].i am not trying to argue but learn from this post.
Holds true for these as well. A couple have vouched for their aluminum block's integrity. My post was just vouching for the integrity of aluminum in general.
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_blocks.htm
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442594
08/20/09 10:02 AM
08/20/09 10:02 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
And is there any problems just cruising an aluminum block on the street?
and just because a handfull of people did it does not mean it is reliable.
Why isn't it reliable? Please, do tell? CHIP
my point was about the pressed in sleeves possably leaking if nothing else over time.
The old aluminum blocks had wet sleeves with O-rings that sometimes leaked. Not anymore, they now use dry sleeves and have done so for many years. So no worries about leaking water.  CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BobR]
#442595
08/20/09 10:04 AM
08/20/09 10:04 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
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Have owned both, nothing wrong with running a aluminum blocks on the street, yes some of the old KB water block, due to there design, and sleeve construction would typically find water in the ol etc.
Those days are over with.
It really a matter of preference. Yes, for a fact the aluminum block gives up some power over the same iron brother. Some top engine builders say this approaches 50+hp. Some say 25-30hp. Its easy to understand just by looking at the lash growth between iron vs aluminum. Aluminum blocks lash grows near 100% more than iron. For example, my last iron block aluminum head engine, lash would grow .005-.007 from cold to hot. Keeping everything else the same, same heads, same rocker arms, even the same pushrods, the Indy maxx block grew .012-.014 inch. I would say this would effect ring seal etc.
IMO
Power loss almost offsets, weight gain. The repearability of aluminum makes it a nice choice. If your building a dragster or a 2200 lbs tube chassis car, then the weight diff shouldn't be much as a factor.
Stripping weight off our old Mopars really isnt a problem, just takes a phone call, and for one to open his wallet.
This debate will never end, and we all have diff idea's what works, and which is better and why.
Its really a matter of preference.
But on a side note, you dont hear about to many aftermarket block failures today. Even with the added community of forums like Moparts. These aftermarket blocks are made to handle about anything the average Joe can throw at it.
In other words, which every block you have, even a nice a nice repairable KB block, a catastrophic engine failure suxs big time regardless of block type.
Last edited by Bob_Coomer; 08/20/09 10:05 AM.
[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color]
[color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: mayhem148]
#442597
08/20/09 11:23 AM
08/20/09 11:23 AM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
for the after market blocks what would be a better choice. what holds up better. advantages and disadvantages. can aluminum blocks really be rebuilt after some explosions or catostrophic failure.
advantages iron is 3,000$
and disadvantages aluminum is 6,000$
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442599
08/20/09 11:46 AM
08/20/09 11:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,997
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,997
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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I did the math on hp loss versus weight loss, and with a loss of 40 hp, it is a wash at 8.80 and 3000 lbs.
The biggest advantage of all is the loss of 100+ lbs up front! This weight removal can really be an advantage, especially if you want to stay anywhere near the stock engine location. Want to buy a slightly used mega block, 4.501 bore?
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: sdaurity]
#442600
08/20/09 11:53 AM
08/20/09 11:53 AM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
for the after market blocks what would be a better choice. what holds up better. advantages and disadvantages. can aluminum blocks really be rebuilt after some explosions or catostrophic failure.
advantages iron is 3,000$
and disadvantages aluminum is 6,000$
So thats your only disadvantage?
i am not sure i dont have any experiance with the aluminum blocks.
how about availabillity?
how about lifter bore sleeving?[any issues?
can barings spinning?block growth?
maintainance with valvetrain?block and head growth with heat?
are there any drawbacks in these areas?
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442601
08/20/09 12:50 PM
08/20/09 12:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
for the after market blocks what would be a better choice. what holds up better. advantages and disadvantages. can aluminum blocks really be rebuilt after some explosions or catostrophic failure.
advantages iron is 3,000$
and disadvantages aluminum is 6,000$
So thats your only disadvantage?
i am not sure i dont have any experiance with the aluminum blocks.
how about availabillity?
how about lifter bore sleeving?[any issues?
can barings spinning?block growth?
maintainance with valvetrain?block and head growth with heat?
are there any drawbacks in these areas?
They don't cost $6,000. My KB was $4,850 plus $150 for shipping to SC from CA. So it was $5,000.
I figured at the time a Mega Block was about $2,600 or so plus another grand in corrective machine work to fix the usual Mopar Performance junk, it was only about $1,500 difference. I'll gladly pay an extra 1500 bucks for a block I can repair if I grenade it and not have to start all over with another new block. The World blocks weren't available yet when I built my hemi a few years ago. It was either KB, Indy, or a big pile from MP.
KB has a few months of wait time, but I think it's worth it. Indy has them in stock as far as I know.
My lifters don't get any oil at all (solid roller) and there is no lifter bore sleeve. The only oil they get is drainback from the heads and what gets splashed on them. No trouble here. I sent my lifters back to Isky for a checkup after 2 years of use and they sent them back saying they were in perfect condition and needed nothing.
They can gundrill oil passages if you're going to run hydraulic lifters though.
The block is gonna grow since it's aluminum. My lash changes .012" from cold to hot. Again, no problems. CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: blownzoom440]
#442604
08/20/09 04:20 PM
08/20/09 04:20 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
juicedcuda
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
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So if I was to purchase an aftermarket aluminum block and build a street friendly 500" stroker with up to a 400 shot of spray, what would be my best choice in aluminum blocks? INDY, World, KB?
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda
1970 Plum Crazy "Gold Duster"
1973 Gold Duster
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: juicedcuda]
#442605
08/20/09 04:33 PM
08/20/09 04:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,363
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
So if I was to purchase an aftermarket aluminum block and build a street friendly 500" stroker with up to a 400 shot of spray, what would be my best choice in aluminum blocks? INDY, World, KB?
All 3 are quality blocks, I chose to stay away from Indy b/c they are A-holes. If you do buy an Indy block, get it from a dealer and not from them directly. I'm 100% happy with my KB block. CHIP
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442606
08/20/09 04:39 PM
08/20/09 04:39 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
juicedcuda
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 761
KY
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Is there any huge differences in machining of any of the aluminum blocks?
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda
1970 Plum Crazy "Gold Duster"
1973 Gold Duster
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: juicedcuda]
#442607
08/20/09 05:03 PM
08/20/09 05:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
BIG BEAR
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
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Quote:
Is there any huge differences in machining of any of the aluminum blocks?
IMO the biggest difference in machining is the sleeve and how it fits into the block, but that is a manufacturing step so as far as anything else goes I would think it would'nt be to hard. But I would have to think you may lose some of your bore size due to the sleeve in the cylinder wall
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: BIG BEAR]
#442608
08/20/09 05:30 PM
08/20/09 05:30 PM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 656
Kokomo, IN
540dust
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 656
Kokomo, IN
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Don't get me wrong, I would pick Al for sure, but the HP loss is real. When I bought my Al block I used the same rotating assembly, same compression, heads, clearances, everything to do a back to back comparision to the iron half filled block. The weight differece was 90lbs the et loss was 2 tenths, I got to within about 1.5 tenths tightening the lash and leaving with some more heat. That being said, the advantages of durability, repairability, and lightening the front end in my opinion outweigh the HP loss.
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Re: iron versus aluminum
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#442609
08/20/09 09:57 PM
08/20/09 09:57 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
blownzoom440
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,647
ELYRIA,OH
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
for the after market blocks what would be a better choice. what holds up better. advantages and disadvantages. can aluminum blocks really be rebuilt after some explosions or catostrophic failure.
advantages iron is 3,000$
and disadvantages aluminum is 6,000$
So thats your only disadvantage?
i am not sure i dont have any experiance with the aluminum blocks.
how about availabillity?
how about lifter bore sleeving?[any issues?
can barings spinning?block growth?
maintainance with valvetrain?block and head growth with heat?
are there any drawbacks in these areas?
They don't cost $6,000. My KB was $4,850 plus $150 for shipping to SC from CA. So it was $5,000.
I figured at the time a Mega Block was about $2,600 or so plus another grand in corrective machine work to fix the usual Mopar Performance junk, it was only about $1,500 difference. I'll gladly pay an extra 1500 bucks for a block I can repair if I grenade it and not have to start all over with another new block. The World blocks weren't available yet when I built my hemi a few years ago. It was either KB, Indy, or a big pile from MP.
KB has a few months of wait time, but I think it's worth it. Indy has them in stock as far as I know.
My lifters don't get any oil at all (solid roller) and there is no lifter bore sleeve. The only oil they get is drainback from the heads and what gets splashed on them. No trouble here. I sent my lifters back to Isky for a checkup after 2 years of use and they sent them back saying they were in perfect condition and needed nothing.
They can gundrill oil passages if you're going to run hydraulic lifters though.
The block is gonna grow since it's aluminum. My lash changes .012" from cold to hot. Again, no problems. CHIP
the cost of the ali block was takin from the link posted above.
["P5153868
Block, Aluminum, Wedge, Siamese-bore, Finished Bored at 4.50"
$ 5,695.95 "]
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