So here is my combo:

74 Cuda, 360 727 (stock converter), 3.23 gears, 27.5 in tall tires.
The engine is a around 9 - 1 compression.
Torker II intake,
Torker plus cam (@.050 Int dur. 222 , Ex dur. 234 Lift Int .447 Ex .450 Intake Centre line 107 Ex centerline 116)
750 Holly vac seconday carb.

My initial timing is set to 14 degrees, car starts runs and idles ok (rumbles away at at 750 rpm with no problem). No detonation that I can here under aceleration.

The timing will advance all the way to 55 degrees as you rev it up (not sure if that is it, or at what RPM it stops advancing.)

The car does not bog at all from a dead stop when you mash the go pedel. However, the car will not spin the tires from a dead stop, and it does not accelerate the way I would like / think it should.

So my question is, how do I fix it / make it better?

I am open to hearing all options. Lets start with tuning options, and go from there.

Thanks,

Jason

I use a vacuum guage to do my idle tuning. You need to have your dist recurved to limit your total advance to 36ish. Vacuum guage is like $15 at sears and is one of the best investments Ive made yet. Try bumping your initial to 16 or 18, if it'll smoke em then then thats where you want it.

I'd get a baseline, A compression test to see what your cyl pressure is. What total timing is w vac adv disconnected and at what rpm it maxes out at. What springs are in the dist. What do your plugs look like and how much vacuum at idle.

Pull the vacuum advance off and check total mechanical advance. I think around 36 degrees total (without vacuum) should be close.
The problem sounds like is may be in the fuel system/carb tuning. If you have too adjust the idle screws out more than about 2-turns, and increasing the accelerator pump nozzles/shot dosen't help, then you may have to drill the metering plate to open up the idle restrictions, and maybe the power valve restrictions too. If you don't want to drill the plate, you can get one of the billit plates with the screw-in restrictions.
This assumes there is no problem with the fuel pump/lines, and only the carb needs adjustment.

As previously mentioned, try bumping the initial timing to 18 degrees. Then with the engine at running temp (after a short drive), leave the car in D and apply the emergency brake. Then hook your vacuum gage up to the intake (manifold vacuum)and write down your baseline vacuum reading. Then start with one of the metering screws and turn it in 1/8 turn and watch the gage for 20 seconds or so. If the reading produced more vacuum, then go to the next metering screw and turn that one the same amount and the same direction. If the vacuum got worse, then turn the screw back to where it was and then another 1/8 turn in the opposite direction. Do this with both metering screws (back and forth) a few times and then take note of the vacuum reading. Then readjust your in gear rpms to where you want them and take note again of the reading.
You will want to accomplish the in gear idle rpm desired along with the highest in gear vacuum reading along with the steadiest vacuum reading while in gear.
Note: Before this test, make sure both (or all four) metering screws are currently set at the same amount of turns outward. It helps me to make a mark at the 12:00 position on the metering screws once I know that they are all at the same position. Then after I am done tuning, I can reference all of the metering screws to see how far they had to be turned.