I got cylinders 1 and 2 in my block. On the radius side of the crank I have .020+ But I can't get a measurement between the rods. Why is this? The rods should be able to move over as there is clearance on both sides of the pin end.

If you have a radius ground crank instead of a factory one that has an undercut, you will need bearings that have a chamfer on them to clear the crank radius. The rods also have a chamfer on one side that goes to the crank radius as well.

Yeah, the chamfers are out toward the radius.

Sounds like the radius is too large for the amount of chamfer on the bearings. The bearings are riding on the chamfer which pushes the rods together and giving you the exact problem you are seeing. There will be a clearance at the radius side of the rod but they are forced together and no clearance between them. Here's a crude drawing that shows what's going on.
Either you have to have the radius reduced by re-grinding or the bearings will have to be scraped to fit.

I Remeasured everything. My journals are 1.8270 wide. My rods are .8900 wide.

The bearings are narrower than the rod. I'll try to get some pics.

Give me a few mins

Sorry for the poor pic quality.

With the caps off everything fits perfect, the rod will sit tight against the journal no problem. Maybe there is only .001-.002 clearance between my rods. I need to get a new feeler gauge, mine only goes down to .004

I'm thinking I may have to machine a little off the unchamfered side of the rod?

The bearings are narrower than the rod as you have noted but it still appears the edge of the bearing is riding on the lower part of the crank radius. I would bet this is your problem and you may have to scrape the bearings slightly to make them work.

Looks like edge of bearing is on the radius, if I am seeing pic correctly You will probably see a shiny spot on edge of the bearing where it is riding. You can buy a narrow bearing shell clearanced for this or chamfer them yourself.

What is the best way to narrow the bearings?

Your picture is pretty tough to see but it looks like there is very little that needs to be removed. The proper tool is a bearing scraper like this:

http://www.etoolcart.com/bearingscraper.aspx

But if you go slow and easy, a good sharp knife and some patience will work.

Would a utility knife with a new blade do the trick?

Done carefully it will likely work. You just need to put a slight chamfer on the edge of the shell so that it clears the radius. Don't try to narrow the whole bearing.

Maybe practice with an old bearing first.

Check to see if your bearings are marked upper and lower.

Randy

The measurements you gave for rod width and the width of the journal equates to.047 rod side clearance for that journal and pair of rods. Once you have the bearings scraped and you actually measure the side clearance, it will be .047. Anything less and the bearings likely need to be scraped a bit more. If you use this method to check the remaing throws, don't assume the same rod width and journal width. Measure them individually.

You might want to throw a mic on the crank to make sure there's no taper on the journals. I had one that 'greew' .0015 (yes, one and a helf thousandths) from the oil hole to where the radius started.

Just something to look out for.

-Bill