Re: suspension w big block
[Re: slammed39]
#421719
07/28/09 01:45 PM
07/28/09 01:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,992 Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
Mopar Ron
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,992
Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
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This is just my Opinion and does not answer your question. But If you already have a fatman mustang II frontend (as you say for sale) "WHY" would you go with 70 year old technology with the stock front end???? In over 30+ years of rod building I have only done 1 car with the modified stock front end and have done dozens with aftermarket front ends like mustang II,volare' and dakota. again,just my opinion but I think the mustang front end would be the better way to go it may take a little more work to do it but it has so many more options in brakes, A arms, rack and pinion, springs and air ride over the stock style frontend. Good luck in whatever way you deiced to go. Ron....
Last edited by Mopar Ron; 07/28/09 01:50 PM.
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Re: suspension w big block
[Re: slammed39]
#421721
07/28/09 04:29 PM
07/28/09 04:29 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,392 Thayer, MO
bohmer2
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,392
Thayer, MO
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I am not sure you are going to be saving yourself any cost upfront with your current approach. 1. with the Mustang II front end you may not need to cut the entire front section off. You should be able to buy a cross member which can be installed inside your current frame sections. Also you can buy parts in pieces for the MII as well, after all the only thing you need to start is a cross member which may only be a $300-$400 investment. Then you can go junk yarding for some of the parts as well. 2. Parts wise it will likely always be cheaper for the Mustang II parts (more options) than the Stock parts. 3. Options and more options in terms of drop, air bags, and big block springs. There are people that are doing just the cross member swaps and companies that offer cross member swaps for tons of frames. Here is just an example: MII IFS Cross members
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Re: suspension w big block
[Re: bohmer2]
#421722
07/28/09 05:36 PM
07/28/09 05:36 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481 Chino Valley
RodStRace
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
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Big dad has said that when all costs are considered, they are about a wash. I usually say keep the stock stuff if you are doing a mild build, but in your case, I think the MII might be the better way. MII + plenty of options with ride height track width, air bags and readily available components and kits. Also has rack and pinion factory engineered from the start. Able to beef up the proven design to handle current speeds and weight. - having to do major frame work and proper welding. First buy-in cost could be higher if going with a full kit with lots of options, but this can be spread out too. Stock with dropped uprights, shock mount, disc conversion, rack and pinion swap, and air bag conversion + no frame work, only welding for the shock mounts maybe the steering, and maybe the lower control arms for the air bags and lowering, No sheetmetal fitting after. - old technology never designed for 75+ MPH, old harder to find suspension parts, stuck with track width and frame height, all the mods come from different sources so little to no support, spending almost as much or the same for less handling, and probably less resale value. More restricted fitting, since the MII frame stubs can be designed for a bigger radiator, easier exhaust routing and starter access.
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Re: suspension w big block
[Re: RodStRace]
#421723
07/28/09 07:44 PM
07/28/09 07:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 34,905 S.E. South Dakota !
bigdad
Still Posting A Lot
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Still Posting A Lot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 34,905
S.E. South Dakota !
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Since you are in the area of these folks www.jimmeyerracing.com .. Contact them with local people that can do a swap for you, At the same time they can mock up a 440 for you, etc . The biggest issues on the "later" pre-war and post war frames is the stock spring pockets really cut into your stock frame and they have a taper that makes a swap a bit harder And, the starter being where is is makes the steering shaft a bit difficult to plan around, just have to put some extra thoughts on it Comes down to skil, tools and place to do it at Mine turned out well but, it was a challenge to make it correct
The lips of fools bring them strife, and their mouths invite a beating.Proverbs 18:6
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Re: suspension w big block
[Re: bigdad]
#421724
07/28/09 10:32 PM
07/28/09 10:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,563 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,563
Freeport IL USA
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The flathead 6 that was pulled out of your car probably weighs about the same as a 440, so the extra weight won't be an issue.
As far as which way to go????? A modified stock suspension can be made to work. Key words "made to work". You will be the guy that has to modify it to work. The aftermarket suspensions have already been modified to work, your paying for that work, then it sounds like you will have to pay to get it installed. When its all done, you are the guy that has to determine if it was a good move. I'd venture to say, nearly all of use that have been through a few cars have all modified a stock suspension to make it work. The 2nd time around, we try something else, the 3rd time we try something still different. At some point we decide which system works the best for us, and tend to stick to that. When someone asks, we skip all the details and tell which way was the best for us.
I was told when I built my first car that I would build at least 3 cars before I got what I wanted. I'm way past that and still don't know which one I really want, but given that you will probably build 3 cars, I think everyone should modify a stock suspension system at least once.
The thing I don't get is the air bag thing. Most guy do them so the can lay the car on the ground (or close to it) with the bags deflated. Bags, lines, and compressors all can fail at any time. If the car lays on the frame when the bags are deflated, it will lay on the frame when something blows out. Bags were originally intended to aid in caring extra weight, not carring the entire weight, and they were not designed to be defalted and inflated every time the vehical is moved, the rubber hardens and eventually fails. Its only a matter of when. No thanks, give me real springs. Gene
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