I bought a motor complete. 360 with "O" heads, which are a 915 casting varient (they were supposedly 2.02 intakes from the factory). Moderate lift hydraulic cam (484). Long story short, it's been sitting about 8 years since it's initial breakin. Got it running, but low oil pressure at idle (7 lbs). Valve train "ticked" like the lifters weren't pumping up. It was getting oil to the top end (leaky valve cover let me know that) Replaced lifters. Replaced the oil pump. The oil pump had a "depression" on the mating surface that didn't let it seal against the block. Though my problem was solved. Primed the motor, had 30 psi easily without running the drill at any kind of speed.

Started the motor last Thursday. Popped right off, seems responsive. Oil pressure was 50 psi when it cold, dropped to about 15 psi hot, but no knocking, so I don't think oil pressure is an issue. It's still making all kinds of ticking at all RPMs. Doesn't sound like a single valve or a single side. It sounds like the whole valve train is doing it.

Took the valve cover off on on side. Pushrods seem tight. Lifters seem pumped up (couldn't push them down easily). We checked the valve to rocker arm clearance (underside). Seems adequate. Checked the clearance between the retainer and valve seal. It looked to be better than .25" when valve was open.

I'm running out of ideas on where to go next. Thought I'd see if some of the real experts could help out.

Thanks

Just for grins pull the distributor and see if the galley plug --the one on the inside there at the oil pump drive gear is in ( Drivers side oil galley rear plug )--if it is out engine will run fine with OK pressure until you drop RPM and it gets warm--will tick like crazy--pressure will drop like a rock when RPM goes down--who knows until you look--easy fix if it is missing--just takes some finger gymnastics--all or most small block guys get to see this on the FIRST build they do. Never again though--Good Luck

If that plug was out there be little or no oil pressure showing on the gauge.
Pull of a the valve covers and turn the engine over and see if you are getting oil to the top of the engine. It is entirely possible that you have the rocker shafts on wrong and there is no oil getting to the rockers or top end. The notch on the end of the shaft neeeds to be down and forward on the left side of the engoen and down and to thhe rear on the right side of the engine.

See what you have for lifter preload

I had a 340 exactly the same lower oil pressure and ticking was that plug bear to get in in a truck but doable with the intake off. it had pressure and 15 or so at idle but not enough to stop lifter ticking.
do you have adjustable rockers??

Not an exhaust leak is it?

Or a Fram filter?

Had one small block that would not stop ticking with stock rockers and pushrods and it was push rod wear. bought new stock push rods and ticking was gone??

The galley plug is there. I checked that before I replaced the oil pump.

Can I check lifter preload by marking the pushrod, taking off the rocker arm shaft and checking to see how much the pushrod has moved "up"? If the pushrod was too short, wouldn't I be able to feel it with the valve all the way closed? I would think I would be able to easily rotate a pushrod that is too short.....

How much lifter preload should I have?

Thanks

Mopar brand oil filter

Went from manifolds to headers. Same noise, so I don't think it's exhaust either.

Been through this with an old 318 and just recently, the 304 in my yellow Hornet. After a cam & lifter swap, had some valve tick. In my case, my pushrods and rocker bridges had some pretty significant wear. Installing new rocker bridges and slightly longer pushrods quieted everything up.