Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: s4dustin]
#36774
06/16/07 01:14 AM
06/16/07 01:14 AM
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Anonymous
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Quote:
rustoelum has an aluminum color, has anyone used it?
and is the general consenus Penetrol over M.S.?
tomorrow is the day..i was thinking of doing the satin black primer until I saw the alumunium color....i wanted blue but cant find the right color
Oh boy here we go again, Round and round. No offense, but does anyone read the whole thread like has been suggested over and over? You cannot use the Aluminum color with this paint method. the makeup of the paint is really different from the other colors and you can't color sand and buff it like the solids. Many people have tried and failed in the past.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Marq]
#36776
06/16/07 09:29 AM
06/16/07 09:29 AM
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Today we applied our 6th coat (technically).
Tomorrow I will go sand down the whole car with 800 grit and finishing off with 2000grit sandpaper before the final coats are completed.
We are gonna try to apply un-thinned coats straight from out of the can from this point forward for final coats.
Finally today my roof has complete coverage. The layering helps and most of the old cracks are finally filled in.
Looks very glossy thus far thinned, can't wait to apply the un-thinned coats and see how much more shine it can get.
BTW: I have a palm sander with a 6" disc. But I only have small pieces of 2000 grit that was made for those small manual block sanders. Is there a way where I can hook them up to my orbital sander?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36777
06/16/07 10:43 AM
06/16/07 10:43 AM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 34 socal
s4dustin
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Quote:
Quote:
rustoelum has an aluminum color, has anyone used it?
and is the general consenus Penetrol over M.S.?
tomorrow is the day..i was thinking of doing the satin black primer until I saw the alumunium color....i wanted blue but cant find the right color
Oh boy here we go again, Round and round. No offense, but does anyone read the whole thread like has been suggested over and over? You cannot use the Aluminum color with this paint method. the makeup of the paint is really different from the other colors and you can't color sand and buff it like the solids. Many people have tried and failed in the past.
I read the whole thread 3 months ago, played a little catch up on this new page...
THANK YOU! Save me a huge problem.
Is the same for silver?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Gusteve]
#36779
06/16/07 11:31 AM
06/16/07 11:31 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660 Flint, MI
Gusteve
I Love the Unicorn Song!!
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I Love the Unicorn Song!!
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Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Gusteve]
#36783
06/16/07 06:34 PM
06/16/07 06:34 PM
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still raining here.... so annoying =(
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36784
06/16/07 08:29 PM
06/16/07 08:29 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 34 socal
s4dustin
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: s4dustin]
#36787
06/16/07 10:32 PM
06/16/07 10:32 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
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Quote:
day one, Petit Electric Blue Paint before
Looks like its off to a good start. The paint looks appropriately thin for a first or second coat... and that passenger rear quarter shot gives a hint of how nice it is going to look on that body...
Are you finding that the Petit Electric Blue paint is basically following the same general recipe as the other paints for mixing and application ?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Marq]
#36788
06/17/07 10:53 AM
06/17/07 10:53 AM
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Quote:
I think that Sunburst yellow color looks surprizingly nice on a Volvo wagon. Most folks tend to have very subdued and earthly colors on their 'bricks'. So that yellow makes the car seem surpisingly current modelish. The tinted windows and wheels really make it pop.
If that car was an older woman... you just succeeded in making her look 20 years younger.
Marq.
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Thanks!
That's the general consensus. 240's look good in bright colors. There's a green 240 around here and a guy has one painted Coral Reef. It's very nice. But yeah, I'm very happy with how it turned out and also now that I know I can do this to any car. It's nice to have the experience!
The windows have crappy tint right now. It's scratched, but you can't really tell. They're going to get stripped and then I'm probably going to apply 5% in the rears and 15% up front. Should look good. I love the wheels on it.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: s4dustin]
#36789
06/17/07 03:04 PM
06/17/07 03:04 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 133 Orange County, CA
Jolly_Raj_R
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Hey S4Dustin, I'm keeping an eye on your paint experience because that blue looks pretty nice! I'm interested to see how it'll look on a muscle car that usually looks best in a metallic.. My car was a metallic blue originally and I'm sort of iffy about painting it a non-metallic blue.. You're going to be my decision maker, I think.. I'll be looking forward to completion pics "You're my boy, blue!!" hehe.. Raj 67 beatercuda
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Jolly_Raj_R]
#36790
06/17/07 06:42 PM
06/17/07 06:42 PM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,590 Piqua, Ohio
dodgeram440
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Some 20 years ago, my little brother painted some stripes on his car using old house paint and a paint brush. It looked like craap and I still make fun of him to this day for doing something so hillbilly. But now after reading these posts and seeing the results you all have posted, I'm seriously concidering trying this on my truck. I've read this current version of this thread from the beginning, but still have some questions.
My 86 ram has some pretty bad surface rust problems, including a left front fender that has a pretty big rust hole and a left rocker panel that has a small hole. I have a fender to replace with that has been stripped to bare metal and needs just some minor massaging.
A local body/paint guy here suggested that I sand everthing with 180 grit to knock down the rust, then use an epoxy primer to seal it. A quart of epoxy primer and a quart of the catalyst will cost me about $60, so I'm concidering other options, that being rustoleum. I checked at the local Home Depot and the quarts are going for about $8. There was also a rustoleum clean metal primer and a rusty metal primer.
My current thinking is to do like the body guy said and sand the truck with 180 paper, then covering the whole truck and the good fender with the rusty metal primer, mainly because I'm not going to buy a quart of primer just to do one fender. What is everyones opinion about that? Does that sound like the right thing to do?
Another issue is that I will be doing some minor bondo work, which will require more sanding and primering. Can I do the bondo work over the rusto primer or do I need to take it down to bare metal first? Then when I'm doing the bondo work and trying to smooth it out, should I use the rusto primer or use the rattle can primers to sand with then finish with the rusto? I had planned on using a hvlp gun to spray the paint, will that work for the primer also?
Thanks to everyone for your opinions. I hope my truck will look as good as what y'all have done.
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Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long)
[Re: Marq]
#36791
06/17/07 10:33 PM
06/17/07 10:33 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 756 North Florida
RebelDart
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Haven't got to the finish coat yet, but I'm leaning towards this method. My question is regarding prep process, I had a bad day today (despite being Fathers Day) with spraying some high-build 2K primer out of a cheap Harbor Freight gun, I've done this before and not had issues, must be the gun. Anyway, I ended up grabbing a foam brush and brushing on some areas I had done some bodywork. Why could I not use a foam roller and brush for this entire process - bare metal, then epoxy, then roll multiple coats of 2K, guide coat, block, then roll more 2K as needed ? The only issue I see is these primers eventually eat the foam brush/rollers so I may need to swap to a new one after 5-10 minutes (my 2K sets up in 10-15 anyway). I'm just thinking, since I'm blocking the car down as much as necessary, why could'nt/would'nt I roll the sucker. It would be so sweet to not have to worry about water in my airline, pressure regulation, cleaning the friggin' gun 3-4 times, just roll it out and trash your rollers! Block, roll and repeat until you have the conditions you want! Yes ? Why not ? I don't dare ask this question on any autodody website, but any of you that have sprayed over the years - what's your opinions ?
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Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long)
[Re: RebelDart]
#36792
06/18/07 12:01 AM
06/18/07 12:01 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
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Quote:
.... Why could I not use a foam roller and brush for this entire process - bare metal, then epoxy, then roll multiple coats of 2K, guide coat, block, then roll more 2K as needed ? The only issue I see is these primers eventually eat the foam brush/rollers so I may need to swap to a new one after 5-10 minutes (my 2K sets up in 10-15 anyway). I'm just thinking, since I'm blocking the car down as much as necessary, why could'nt/would'nt I roll the sucker.
There is no problem rolling your primer. Just treat it like the paint and thin it down a bit with mineral spirit so that it will self level out.
You should not have any problem using the 4" high density foam rollers. They will not disintegrate if they are the white high density foam type. You would have problems with the cheap foam rollers.... either the foam will start to disintegrate or the glue that holds the foam to the plastic core will separate. The other problem with the cheap foam rollers is that they have more air pockets in them... and hence they tend to leave behind more bubbles when being used.
As noted earlier in the thread... you should do all the surface preparation just as you would if you were going to spray it.
As for the metal surfaces, I don't think you have to resort to using an expoxy at all. The Tremblad/Rustoleum and Brightside are all quite capable of going over bare metal and bringing a halt to future rust.
Depending on how many types of surfaces you have on your vehicle ( bondo surfaces, bar metal surfaces and just scuffed paint surfaces... you may go to priming the whole vehicle just so that you have one uniform and consistent color laid down on the vehicle before you go to adding the paint layers.
Like the other case we had just discussed, that primer coat on the whole vehicle may save you seval paint coats later ( and hence save you some work in the long run ).
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: dodgeram440]
#36793
06/18/07 12:24 AM
06/18/07 12:24 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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Quote:
A local body/paint guy here suggested that I sand everthing with 180 grit to knock down the rust, then use an epoxy primer to seal it.
The 180 will do a good job at rooting out the rust. It will probably rough up the surface so that you need a high build primer to blend out the surface scratches/scars. The epoxy primer would give you the build up to accomplish that... but I would think you could use the Brightside primer or some other primer liquid in a can to accomplish the build up and seal of the bare metal surface. ( I am not a fan of the aerosol primers when it comes to sufficiently choking the bare metal surface from oxygen or moisture. The areosols lay on too thin a coat - compared to a rolled on primer that is 3 x 5 times thicker. The extent of the sanding into the metal may require a thin skim of bondo to level it out... as the thicker primer just may not be able to build it up level as efficiently as a thin skim of bondo ( which you would primer over after the bondo cures. )
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A quart of epoxy primer and a quart of the catalyst will cost me about $60, so I'm concidering other options, that being rustoleum. I checked at the local Home Depot and the quarts are going for about $8. There was also a rustoleum clean metal primer and a rusty metal primer.
Rustoleum/Tremclad or Brightside can all go straight onto metal and be pretty successful. But when you have scarred up the surface removing rust, it would be better to lay down a build up layer of primer. The paints will not be able to build up their coats evenly enough to mask out the sand paper scrathes on the bare metal.
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My current thinking is to do like the body guy said and sand the truck with 180 paper, then covering the whole truck and the good fender with the rusty metal primer, mainly because I'm not going to buy a quart of primer just to do one fender.
This seems like the root to go. My personal preference would be to use the Interlux Brightside primer - simply because I was impressed by its coverage and thickness when applied. It left me lots of room to work it with an 800 grit sand paper to smooth the primer down nicely.
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Another issue is that I will be doing some minor bondo work, which will require more sanding and primering. Can I do the bondo work over the rusto primer or do I need to take it down to bare metal first? Then when I'm doing the bondo work and trying to smooth it out, should I use the rusto primer or use the rattle can primers to sand with then finish with the rusto? I had planned on using a hvlp gun to spray the paint, will that work for the primer also?
Quote:
I think you have to approach this job in the logical sequence to get the best results.
a) get all your rust removal, overall body sanding and bondo'ing done. Surface prep is where this project is going to make it or break it.
b ) lay down your primer layer over everything. This will stop the bare metal area from rusting.. the bondo from sucking in the paint... and provide good adhesion for the rolled paint layers on the scuffed paint. If you spot any body defects once the primer stage is done.. sand the respect spots, bondo it... and then blend in primer over that spot. Sand the primer layer smooth
c ) start laying down your rolled paint layers as per the recipe we have been following for the roller method.
As previously noted... I think you will get better results using liquid primer that you roller... than the primer spray in the aerosol cans. You will get better coverage with the liquid that is rolled on - and as a bonus you will probably save money ( because the number of aerosol cans of primer will cost more overall then the cans of liquid primer ).
The problem with primer, painting and then trying to go back to certain spots to slap on bondo is that it will make to much work and extra coats of paint to bring that repaired surface back up to the same consistent color as the rest of the body. In some cases the catalyst in the bondo can cause the paint it touches to wrinkle, soften or shrivel up like elephant skin. So it is best to nail down your bondo and surface preparation before going for your primer and paint coats. It will just cut down on the number of opportunities for something to go wrong...
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Last edited by Marq; 06/18/07 12:41 AM.
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