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rustoelum has an aluminum color, has anyone used it?

and is the general consenus Penetrol over M.S.?

tomorrow is the day..i was thinking of doing the satin black primer until I saw the alumunium color....i wanted blue but cant find the right color

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rustoelum has an aluminum color, has anyone used it?

and is the general consenus Penetrol over M.S.?

tomorrow is the day..i was thinking of doing the satin black primer until I saw the alumunium color....i wanted blue but cant find the right color

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Oh boy here we go again, Round and round. No offense, but does anyone read the whole thread like has been suggested over and over? You cannot use the Aluminum color with this paint method. the makeup of the paint is really different from the other colors and you can't color sand and buff it like the solids. Many people have tried and failed in the past.

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Speaking of Satin Black:

After weeks of prep and crappy weather (too hot or raining) I was able to start rolling again this morning.

I'm hoping to pull it out of the garage later and late it bake in the sun, then I can do another coat this evening.

The bondo just sucks the paint in, so I think I'll start priming those areas first.

I hereby rename Satin black to be SATEN black!

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A possible whacky side effect is that the carrier being drawn into the bondo may in fact work to soften the bondo. And when the paint layer dries, the carrier trapped down in the bondo will not be able to rise and easily evaporate through the skin of the paint. It may cause sort of a blister type effect as the gas evaporating from the bondo and gets trapped under the paint skin.

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day one, Petit Electric Blue Paint
before

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I think that Sunburst yellow color looks surprizingly nice on a Volvo wagon. Most folks tend to have very subdued and earthly colors on their 'bricks'. So that yellow makes the car seem surpisingly current modelish. The tinted windows and wheels really make it pop.

If that car was an older woman... you just succeeded in making her look 20 years younger.

Marq.

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Thanks!


That's the general consensus. 240's look good in bright colors. There's a green 240 around here and a guy has one painted Coral Reef. It's very nice. But yeah, I'm very happy with how it turned out and also now that I know I can do this to any car. It's nice to have the experience!


The windows have crappy tint right now. It's scratched, but you can't really tell. They're going to get stripped and then I'm probably going to apply 5% in the rears and 15% up front. Should look good. I love the wheels on it.

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.... Why could I not use a foam roller and brush for this entire process - bare metal, then epoxy, then roll multiple coats of 2K, guide coat, block, then roll more 2K as needed ? The only issue I see is these primers eventually eat the foam brush/rollers so I may need to swap to a new one after 5-10 minutes (my 2K sets up in 10-15 anyway). I'm just thinking, since I'm blocking the car down as much as necessary, why could'nt/would'nt I roll the sucker.

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A local body/paint guy here suggested that I sand everthing with 180 grit to knock down the rust, then use an epoxy primer to seal it.

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A quart of epoxy primer and a quart of the catalyst will cost me about $60, so I'm concidering other options, that being rustoleum. I checked at the local Home Depot and the quarts are going for about $8. There was also a rustoleum clean metal primer and a rusty metal primer.

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My current thinking is to do like the body guy said and sand the truck with 180 paper, then covering the whole truck and the good fender with the rusty metal primer, mainly because I'm not going to buy a quart of primer just to do one fender.

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Another issue is that I will be doing some minor bondo work, which will require more sanding and primering. Can I do the bondo work over the rusto primer or do I need to take it down to bare metal first? Then when I'm doing the bondo work and trying to smooth it out, should I use the rusto primer or use the rattle can primers to sand with then finish with the rusto? I had planned on using a hvlp gun to spray the paint, will that work for the primer also?

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I think you have to approach this job in the logical sequence to get the best results.

a) get all your rust removal, overall body sanding and bondo'ing done. Surface prep is where this project is going to make it or break it.

b ) lay down your primer layer over everything. This will stop the bare metal area from rusting.. the bondo from sucking in the paint... and provide good adhesion for the rolled paint layers on the scuffed paint. If you spot any body defects once the primer stage is done.. sand the respect spots, bondo it... and then blend in primer over that spot. Sand the primer layer smooth

c ) start laying down your rolled paint layers as per the recipe we have been following for the roller method.

As previously noted... I think you will get better results using liquid primer that you roller... than the primer spray in the aerosol cans. You will get better coverage with the liquid that is rolled on - and as a bonus you will probably save money ( because the number of aerosol cans of primer will cost more overall then the cans of liquid primer ).

The problem with primer, painting and then trying to go back to certain spots to slap on bondo is that it will make to much work and extra coats of paint to bring that repaired surface back up to the same consistent color as the rest of the body. In some cases the catalyst in the bondo can cause the paint it touches to wrinkle, soften or shrivel up like elephant skin. So it is best to nail down your bondo and surface preparation before going for your primer and paint coats. It will just cut down on the number of opportunities for something to go wrong...

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