Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: sharpie]
#336860
06/04/09 11:40 AM
06/04/09 11:40 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312 SoCal
68HemiB
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
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Old, cracked, ATF-soaked connectors with tired oval contacts (remember your question about that?) have been known to do funny things. The center pin is supposed to get GROUNDED when working properly, and do it in Park and Neutral (see the synchronicity there?). It's not a percentage bet, but it is an easy test to pull out the ohm meter. I could have gotten in my car and driven up there and tested it myself in the time I spent typing out that you should take out your ohm meter. Okay, maybe that was a slight exaggeration...
Down to just a blue car now.
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Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: sharpie]
#336862
06/04/09 12:30 PM
06/04/09 12:30 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312 SoCal
68HemiB
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
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Quote:
Since I don't have an ohmmeter, will a digital multi-meter work?
Doesn't your multi-meter include a setting with the greek letter Omega on it? That would be resistance (measured in ohms). Most do.
If not, all you need to do is confirm when there is or isn't continuity. A wire hooked to a 12 volt source and a test light would work just as well. If you use this method, remember that the CENTER PIN will be grounded (i.e. a DEAD SHORT) in certain gears. Do NOT touch your 12 volt source to the center pin, or any other ground. EVER. Power one outside pin (doesn't matter which one) with 12 volts. In each gear, test the other outside pin with the test light. When it lights - you have continuity. No light = open circuit.
Alternate alternate testing method. Read no further if you get confused, and stick with the stuff above. If you want to remove the risk of a dead short from clipping around with a 12 volt source, do the test backwards, with the 12 volt source hooked into the test light, and the other outboard pin clipped instead to ground. Wherever the probe lights, you have a ground. As above, test for continuity in each gear.
But I bet your multi-meter has a resistance setting...
Down to just a blue car now.
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Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: sharpie]
#336864
06/04/09 12:58 PM
06/04/09 12:58 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312 SoCal
68HemiB
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
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Great picture.
Completely wrong interpretation of my words.
In each gear, you are testing for continuity the NSS switch outer pin pair while bolted into the transmission and disconnected from the harness, with the ignition key having nothing to do with it.
Last edited by 68HemiB; 06/04/09 01:25 PM.
Down to just a blue car now.
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Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: sharpie]
#336866
06/04/09 02:26 PM
06/04/09 02:26 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,880 Oregon
hooziewhatsit
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,880
Oregon
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Quote:
I sort of get it, but I guess I'm not understanding continuity. I thought continuity meant it would make a circuit. If there's no energization from a source (car battery via harness), how would I see continuity? Maybe I don't understand the multi-meter. I know, I am hopeless
When you put your multimeter on resistance (omega), it measures resistance. It doesn't need any outside power. To see this, just touch the two probes together. Resistance on the meter should go to 0 ohms.
Now, touch the probes to the two outer pins, and have someone go through each gear. When you see 0 ohms, you have continuity between the pins, just like when you touched the probes together.
This is the 'safest' method as you're not jumping any 12v points to it.
---Alternate method-----
You only need power from an outside source if you want to use a test light. If you want to use this method, put 12v on the left pin. Ground your test light, and touch its probe to the right pin. When the light comes on, there is continuity between the pins.
-Dave
If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
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Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: sharpie]
#336867
06/04/09 02:28 PM
06/04/09 02:28 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312 SoCal
68HemiB
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
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Continuity (conductivity) and resistance are opposite sides of the same coin. Yes, you need some sort of "juice" to prove a circuit. That is provided by the battery in your multi-meter.
You use the ohm meter mode of your multi-meter to check for resistance (or LACK of resistance):
High resistance (big number) = open circuit. Low number (theoretically ZERO) = intact circuit.
Down to just a blue car now.
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Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: sharpie]
#336871
06/08/09 01:03 PM
06/08/09 01:03 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312 SoCal
68HemiB
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
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You think you're the first one to carry around an eight year-old in the trunk who jumps out with a flashlight every time you back up?
Down to just a blue car now.
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Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: 68HemiB]
#336872
06/08/09 01:08 PM
06/08/09 01:08 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,037 hi
sharpie
OP
Moparts Linguist
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OP
Moparts Linguist
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,037
hi
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Quote:
You think you're the first one to carry around an eight year-old in the trunk who jumps out with a flashlight every time you back up?
No, since I wasn't heading into reverse in the forseeable future (I park on the street in between two driveways), and the NSS itself works fine, I just unplugged the reverse lamps. I know, not the best thing to do, but the only thing that wouldn't take a lot of effort but would make it legal to keep shaking down the drivetrain.
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Re: Dumb reverse lights....
[Re: 68HemiB]
#336873
06/08/09 01:12 PM
06/08/09 01:12 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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ROTFLMAO I thought I was the only one that cut the center wire and grounded it to the frame then run a toggle switch up on the dash to turn back ups on I figured it took care of shifting before cranking,just cranking on the fly and the switch gets the tail gaters off the bumper when I throw the white light on them ya want that rooster comb I gots?? you can have it itss already R&R from the vb lmk
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