Door hinge plate
#3196453
12/10/23 12:23 PM
12/10/23 12:23 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,487 STL
cdstl
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Hey Guys,
I'm going to need to shim the bottom door hinges on my '65 Coronet to get the rear of the door up. Currently I have some washers under them.
Does someone make a plate to go under the hinge or will it be up to me to find a correct thickness piece of metal and then make it work?
Thanks
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: topside]
#3196471
12/10/23 01:41 PM
12/10/23 01:41 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
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cdstl
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Pins replaced, adjusted as much as can be.
It's needing a shim it would appear at this point.
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: cdstl]
#3196497
12/10/23 02:43 PM
12/10/23 02:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
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Pins replaced, adjusted as much as can be.
It's needing a shim it would appear at this point. Then you are probably on your own to get metal the thickness you need and make it fit between the door and the hinge. It is pretty strange that something that used to match up, with enough adjustments to align the door, no longer does. I would first suspect something is worn, rusty, or bent (were the pin bushing holes elongated, or does the bottom of the door post, or the bottom of the door, itself have rust?), but sometimes time and long term use can change things. I might suggest making a cardboard template to fit where the shim is needed, then transfer the template dimensions to the metal. Don't forget to make sure the mounting bolts are gong to be long enough.
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: cdstl]
#3196531
12/10/23 05:27 PM
12/10/23 05:27 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,487 STL
cdstl
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The door originally had body shims in it and the passenger has washers. I will probably be using shims in the end, I might get the doors aligned without shims but maybe not.
Washers work, but I want something that has both a more finished look and gets the door adjusted to where it needs to be.
I need a piece of metal that's around .065 thick.
Thanks
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: topside]
#3196532
12/10/23 05:28 PM
12/10/23 05:28 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,881 Ontario, Canada
Stanton
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Don't question me!
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1/4" thick might be all that's needed.
1/4" ... YIKES !!! Do the math ... 1/4" will raise the end of the door about 1-1/2". That's one hell of a "sag" !!
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: Stanton]
#3196546
12/10/23 06:24 PM
12/10/23 06:24 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,487 STL
cdstl
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1/4" thick might be all that's needed.
1/4" ... YIKES !!! Do the math ... 1/4" will raise the end of the door about 1-1/2". That's one hell of a "sag" !! I can't even spell MATH. It raised the door 1/2" in the back and the Home Depot washers are .065, sometimes you have to cheat.
Last edited by cdstl; 12/10/23 06:29 PM.
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: cdstl]
#3196586
12/10/23 10:32 PM
12/10/23 10:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,424 Omaha Ne
TJP
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The door originally had body shims in it and the passenger has washers. I will probably be using shims in the end, I might get the doors aligned without shims but maybe not.
Washers work, but I want something that has both a more finished look and gets the door adjusted to where it needs to be.
I need a piece of metal that's around .065 thick.
Thanks As poorboy suggested: I might suggest making a cardboard template to fit where the shim is needed, then transfer the template dimensions to the metal. Don't forget to make sure the mounting bolts are gong to be long enough. Easily fabricated
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: TJP]
#3196588
12/10/23 10:35 PM
12/10/23 10:35 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,487 STL
cdstl
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The door originally had body shims in it and the passenger has washers. I will probably be using shims in the end, I might get the doors aligned without shims but maybe not.
Washers work, but I want something that has both a more finished look and gets the door adjusted to where it needs to be.
I need a piece of metal that's around .065 thick.
Thanks As poorboy suggested: I might suggest making a cardboard template to fit where the shim is needed, then transfer the template dimensions to the metal. Don't forget to make sure the mounting bolts are gong to be long enough. Easily fabricated Yeah, I've decided that a piece of 16 gauge will work just fine.
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: cdstl]
#3197150
12/13/23 11:22 AM
12/13/23 11:22 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,050 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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The door originally had body shims in it and the passenger has washers. I will probably be using shims in the end, I might get the doors aligned without shims but maybe not.
Washers work, but I want something that has both a more finished look and gets the door adjusted to where it needs to be.
I need a piece of metal that's around .065 thick.
Thanks .065 is just over a 1/16" you should have no problem finding sheet that thin and then use your hinge as a template to make a piece of flat shim that will barely be seen.
running up my post count some more .
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: cdstl]
#3197235
12/13/23 03:35 PM
12/13/23 03:35 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,235 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
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Looking for a way out of Middl...
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What I have done with good success: Make sure the door is fully loaded with glass, mechanisms, latches and panels. All the normal weight the door would have. Remove the door latch pin. Loosen all the door pillar bolts (top and bottom, inside & outside of the front pillar) enough for the door to move at both hinges. Leave the door to hinge bolts tight. Position the door near closed position then jack up the door in the rear higher than necessary. Tighten the bolts, remove the Jack and let the door hang. Good chance it will be at or near where you want it to be. Repeat until it is at the correct height at the rear. Adjust the door bolts to twist the bottom & rear edges into place aligned with the rocker & rear jamb. Install the door latch pin so as not to push or pull the door alignment. You may have tried it but hope it helps.
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Re: Door hinge plate
[Re: cdstl]
#3197367
12/13/23 10:11 PM
12/13/23 10:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,213 Minn
SportF
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There is also adjustment slots between the hinge and the door along with the hinge to body slots. I've done this a number of times and its like there is TOO much adjustment every time I have done it. if you are shimming the hinge away from the body, the door should be pulled out on its slots. If you are shimming between the door and the hinge, that should be done by pulling up on the hinge slots in the body.
And, you can't just loosen one hinge as the other will prevent enough movement. Open the door, and slightly loosen all hinge bolts at the body. Support the door a little higher than you want, and tighten the bolts. You may end up moving the latch plate at the body, which can be another soup sandwich.
If you do end up moving the latch plate, remember this, this latch should often be moved exact opposite of what you think! (if the door latches too far out, move the latch OUT.) good luck.
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