Hey Guys,

I'm going to need to shim the bottom door hinges on my '65 Coronet to get the rear of the door up. Currently I have some washers under them.

Does someone make a plate to go under the hinge or will it be up to me to find a correct thickness piece of metal and then make it work?

Thanks

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question, but the door is sagging ?

Door hinges are adjustable at the pillar and/or door shell.
Strikers are adjustable as well.
Likely the hinge pins, after all this time and usage, are worn.

Pins replaced, adjusted as much as can be.

It's needing a shim it would appear at this point.

Hmmm, sounds like the door is damaged/bent at the front. Like caved in a bit.
That can happen when the rear of the door is hit, like backing it into something.

Old trick - get a floor jack & something to protect the door's flange (small wood block, for example).
With the door ajar (not closed, say 30 degrees open) jack the door up. Might be scary.
It's kind of a last resort, but it's effective.

I believe they did make them but finding one or a source will likely take more time than getting the plate and fabbing one

Then you are probably on your own to get metal the thickness you need and make it fit between the door and the hinge. It is pretty strange that something that used to match up, with enough adjustments to align the door, no longer does. I would first suspect something is worn, rusty, or bent (were the pin bushing holes elongated, or does the bottom of the door post, or the bottom of the door, itself have rust?), but sometimes time and long term use can change things.

I might suggest making a cardboard template to fit where the shim is needed, then transfer the template dimensions to the metal. Don't forget to make sure the mounting bolts are gong to be long enough.

If the OP decides on shims:
Buy a bunch of body shims - basically squares with slots or sliding around a bolt - in varying thicknesses.
Paint jobbers, maybe even auto parts store, should have them.
1/4" thick might be all that's needed.
But my money's on the door frame being bent; oval pin hole would be obvious when replacing the pin.
A photo or two of upper & lower hinges and door face where they attach would likely be helpful.

The door originally had body shims in it and the passenger has washers. I will probably be using shims in the end, I might get the doors aligned without shims but maybe not.

Washers work, but I want something that has both a more finished look and gets the door adjusted to where it needs to be.

I need a piece of metal that's around .065 thick.

Thanks

1/4" ... YIKES !!!

Do the math ... 1/4" will raise the end of the door about 1-1/2". That's one hell of a "sag" !!

You may well be right - I don't know what we're working with here.

I can't even spell MATH. It raised the door 1/2" in the back and the Home Depot washers are .065, sometimes you have to cheat.

Hmmmm. Maybe you have a car I worked on in my younger days. it was much easier to shove a couple washers between the hinge and the door then it was to adjust that bottom door hinge. If it is, I'M sorry.

As poorboy suggested:

Quote

I might suggest making a cardboard template to fit where the shim is needed, then transfer the template dimensions to the metal. Don't forget to make sure the mounting bolts are gong to be long enough.

Easily fabricated

Yeah, I've decided that a piece of 16 gauge will work just fine.

another way to "adjust" the door is to put a 2x4 or similar on the sill, almost close the door, and lift it up. Door was probably bent
from years of use, vibration, leaning on it. Maybe put a straight edge down the front of the door and see if the hinge areas are tweaked.
If so, bend back.

that is how they would do it on the line, usually a couple of LARGE AA's and they knew exactly where and how much to apply. I've never had much luck with it though, even when using a jack

If you raise the jack high enough while its under the slightly open car door and you start to lift the tires on that side of the car off the ground, it will bend something on or near the door.

For those of you that can't understand humor, that last statement was in just..

.065 is just over a 1/16" you should have no problem finding sheet that thin and then use your hinge as a template to make a piece of flat shim that will barely be seen.

What I have done with good success:

Make sure the door is fully loaded with glass, mechanisms, latches and panels. All the normal weight the door would have.

Remove the door latch pin.

Loosen all the door pillar bolts (top and bottom, inside & outside of the front pillar) enough for the door to move at both hinges. Leave the door to hinge bolts tight.

Position the door near closed position then jack up the door in the rear higher than necessary.

Tighten the bolts, remove the Jack and let the door hang.

Good chance it will be at or near where you want it to be.

Repeat until it is at the correct height at the rear.

Adjust the door bolts to twist the bottom & rear edges into place aligned with the rocker & rear jamb.

Install the door latch pin so as not to push or pull the door alignment.

You may have tried it but hope it helps.

There is also adjustment slots between the hinge and the door along with the hinge to body slots. I've done this a number of times and its like there is TOO much adjustment every time I have done it. if you are shimming the hinge away from the body, the door should be pulled out on its slots. If you are shimming between the door and the hinge, that should be done by pulling up on the hinge slots in the body.

And, you can't just loosen one hinge as the other will prevent enough movement. Open the door, and slightly loosen all hinge bolts at the body. Support the door a little higher than you want, and tighten the bolts. You may end up moving the latch plate at the body, which can be another soup sandwich.

If you do end up moving the latch plate, remember this, this latch should often be moved exact opposite of what you think! (if the door latches too far out, move the latch OUT.) good luck.