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How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good #3183446
10/12/23 06:27 PM
10/12/23 06:27 PM
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Farmington Hills, MI
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BPBP440 Offline OP
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I have a cone sure grip that was reportedly good when removed. It is not in a housing currently, so I can’t do the usual in car checks.

What should I look for when disassembling the unit to tell if it has “too much” wear?

Thanks!

Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: BPBP440] #3183450
10/12/23 06:53 PM
10/12/23 06:53 PM
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Benton, IL.
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DaveRS23 Offline
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Don't tear it down. You can use your axles to test it.

Clamp one axle in a good vice. Slide the Sure Grip on and then the other axle. Use a good sized pry bar between the lug studs to see how hard it is to turn the axle. Seems like the manual calls for 100lb break away. If that's not right, someone will correct it.

And if it is not tight, don't trash it. I have fixed quite a few of them over the years even though a lot of guys say they are junk and cannot be fixed.


Master, again and still
Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: DaveRS23] #3183457
10/12/23 07:11 PM
10/12/23 07:11 PM
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Farmington Hills, MI
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BPBP440 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by DaveRS23
Don't tear it down. You can use your axles to test it.

Clamp one axle in a good vice. Slide the Sure Grip on and then the other axle. Use a good sized pry bar between the lug studs to see how hard it is to turn the axle. Seems like the manual calls for 100lb break away. If that's not right, someone will correct it.

And if it is not tight, don't trash it. I have fixed quite a few of them over the years even though a lot of guys say they are junk and cannot be fixed.


I’ll do that. Maybe a plate with the same hole pattern as the studs and a nut welded in the middle could allow me to use a torque wrench for breakaway.

Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: BPBP440] #3183463
10/12/23 07:19 PM
10/12/23 07:19 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,825
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda Offline
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Kirkland, Washington
Originally Posted by BPBP440
Originally Posted by DaveRS23
Don't tear it down. You can use your axles to test it.

Clamp one axle in a good vice. Slide the Sure Grip on and then the other axle. Use a good sized pry bar between the lug studs to see how hard it is to turn the axle. Seems like the manual calls for 100lb break away. If that's not right, someone will correct it.

And if it is not tight, don't trash it. I have fixed quite a few of them over the years even though a lot of guys say they are junk and cannot be fixed.


I’ll do that. Maybe a plate with the same hole pattern as the studs and a nut welded in the middle could allow me to use a torque wrench for breakaway.


Just bolt a wheel/tire on the axle that’s not in the vice. The old shade tree test was if you can turn the tire with your arms the sure grip is shot. Then you disassemble and resurface (belt sander) the cones, but that’s a different discussion.

Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #3183485
10/12/23 08:42 PM
10/12/23 08:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,093
Benton, IL.
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DaveRS23 Offline
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Originally Posted by Pacnorthcuda
Originally Posted by BPBP440
Originally Posted by DaveRS23
Don't tear it down. You can use your axles to test it.

Clamp one axle in a good vice. Slide the Sure Grip on and then the other axle. Use a good sized pry bar between the lug studs to see how hard it is to turn the axle. Seems like the manual calls for 100lb break away. If that's not right, someone will correct it.

And if it is not tight, don't trash it. I have fixed quite a few of them over the years even though a lot of guys say they are junk and cannot be fixed.


I’ll do that. Maybe a plate with the same hole pattern as the studs and a nut welded in the middle could allow me to use a torque wrench for breakaway. You can just use a lug nut. 100lbs is not too much for them.


Just bolt a wheel/tire on the axle that’s not in the vice. The only down side to that is the weight. Getting kinda heavy out there with one end in a vice.

The old shade tree test was if you can turn the tire with your arms the sure grip is shot. Then you disassemble and resurface (belt sander) the cones, but that’s a different discussion. Yep, .030" to .050" off the small ends of the cones makes it almost as good as new. Such as that is.


Master, again and still
Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: BPBP440] #3183614
10/13/23 12:42 PM
10/13/23 12:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,817
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel Offline
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Originally Posted by BPBP440
Originally Posted by DaveRS23
Don't tear it down. You can use your axles to test it.

Clamp one axle in a good vice. Slide the Sure Grip on and then the other axle. Use a good sized pry bar between the lug studs to see how hard it is to turn the axle. Seems like the manual calls for 100lb break away. If that's not right, someone will correct it.

And if it is not tight, don't trash it. I have fixed quite a few of them over the years even though a lot of guys say they are junk and cannot be fixed.


I’ll do that. Maybe a plate with the same hole pattern as the studs and a nut welded in the middle could allow me to use a torque wrench for breakaway.


Here's an old pair of axle stubs that I machined so a torque wrench reading could be taken in a vise. If the cones need to be machined, Doc Diff has spacer shims to take up the distance.

https://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-cone-sure-grip-shim-pack.html

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Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: BPBP440] #3183634
10/13/23 01:40 PM
10/13/23 01:40 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,020
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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It was garabge when it was designed, and still is. The reason one would machine the cones and add shims is because it disintegrates every time you turn, sending little pieces of metal into the gear oil that gets run thru the gear teeth and bearings.Save yourself the headaches down the road , you're almost all the way there, toss it in your scrap bin..


running up my post count some more .
Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: BPBP440] #3183644
10/13/23 02:20 PM
10/13/23 02:20 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
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Wichita
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GY3 Offline
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No cone sure-grip is any good when you apply power and traction!

I didn't pay attention to JohnRR years ago and junked a brand new Mancini built 742 cased 3rd member after just one season of hard use.

~$1,300.00 in the garbage.

Dana 60 and spool for the win.


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Pump gas, n/a, through the mufflers on street tires with 3.54's. 3,600 lbs.
10.01 @ 133mph with a 250 shot of nitrous an a splash of race gas. 1.36 60 ft. 3,700 lbs.

Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: GY3] #3183661
10/13/23 03:04 PM
10/13/23 03:04 PM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,261
nowhere
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Sniper Offline
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Originally Posted by GY3
No cone sure-grip is any good when you apply power and traction!

I didn't pay attention to JohnRR years ago and junked a brand new Mancini built 742 cased 3rd member after just one season of hard use.

~$1,300.00 in the garbage.

Dana 60 and spool for the win.



It's like buying a Mack truck to pick up eggs at the grocery store. Yeah, it could do that but over kill.

Dana 60 and a spool is not for the same application a cone suregrip was designed for, no wonder it failed.

Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: John_Kunkel] #3183784
10/13/23 11:10 PM
10/13/23 11:10 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 264
Farmington Hills, MI
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BPBP440 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by John_Kunkel
Originally Posted by BPBP440
Originally Posted by DaveRS23
Don't tear it down. You can use your axles to test it.

Clamp one axle in a good vice. Slide the Sure Grip on and then the other axle. Use a good sized pry bar between the lug studs to see how hard it is to turn the axle. Seems like the manual calls for 100lb break away. If that's not right, someone will correct it.

And if it is not tight, don't trash it. I have fixed quite a few of them over the years even though a lot of guys say they are junk and cannot be fixed.


I’ll do that. Maybe a plate with the same hole pattern as the studs and a nut welded in the middle could allow me to use a torque wrench for breakaway.


Here's an old pair of axle stubs that I machined so a torque wrench reading could be taken in a vise. If the cones need to be machined, Doc Diff has spacer shims to take up the distance.

https://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-cone-sure-grip-shim-pack.html
. That is a slick set-up!

Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: BPBP440] #3183865
10/14/23 11:49 AM
10/14/23 11:49 AM
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Moparite Offline
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Quote
It was garabge when it was designed, and still is.

I'm not a fan of them either but used em. I would take it apart and look at the condition of the cones. There may be debris or wear. You can grind down any imperfections and get a little more time out of it before it gets worse. If you don't already have one get a magnetic drain/fill plug, It will catch any metallic debris and help keep it out of the cones.

Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: Moparite] #3183887
10/14/23 12:38 PM
10/14/23 12:38 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Originally Posted by Moparite
Quote
It was garabge when it was designed, and still is.

. If you don't already have one get a magnetic drain/fill plug, It will catch any metallic debris and help keep it out of the cones.
I have glue strong magnets in the housings to catch debris in one of my old drag race cars that I would swap the third members around for different race tracks at higher elevations, I would wipe it cleans each time I had the third member out up scope
the reason for gluing them it was Murphy whistling shruggy


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: How do I know if my Cone Suregrip is good [Re: Cab_Burge] #3184336
10/16/23 10:06 AM
10/16/23 10:06 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,020
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Originally Posted by Moparite
Quote
It was garabge when it was designed, and still is.

. If you don't already have one get a magnetic drain/fill plug, It will catch any metallic debris and help keep it out of the cones.
I have glue strong magnets in the housings to catch debris in one of my old drag race cars that I would swap the third members around for different race tracks at higher elevations, I would wipe it cleans each time I had the third member out up scope
the reason for gluing them it was Murphy whistling shruggy


I have done the same thing.


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