Two of my 440 blocks at the machine shop just came back magged and checked out fine, so I'm looking to start getting parts. I have no connecting rods for them, so I need to either get a set and have them refurbished or buy a new set. Not sure how much power a stock set can handle, so wondering if using 50 year old parts for an engine is good or maybe see if there are some decent aftermarket I/H-beam rods I can get. Unsure of how much power I need to make, but one motor I do plan to build is for a heavy, all metal car (guessing weight to be close to 3500lbs+). Any suggestions would be appreciated.

As someone running refurbished stock rods, buy some decent new ones

Personally, I wouldn't but I sold a used LY set to a local guy that pushes 1,000 hp using nitrous.

It all depends on your level of risk.

I would get a new set of H beams , but take note the aftermarket likes round numbers , stock rod length is 6.768 , aftermarket are 6.760 ...

Aftermarker are stronger and you should be able to buy a crank ,rods, piston that are ballanced. Lighter is a good things also.

Kinda depends on planned usage, and cost of corrected LY vs H-beam or I-beam.
Haven't had any issues using LYs in 500-550-HP street-strip B-bodies, but for racing, I'd use H-beams.

By the time you buy a set of used rods, have them magged, checked for straightness, good bolts installed, and resized, you are almost to the cost of new rods.

New performance aftermarket rods are lighter, and stronger.

IF you are going to be buying custom pistons any way, you have an opportunity to use a smaller wrist pin and a longer rod (which allows a lighter piston) to save reciprocating weight, and even a 2.2 crank pin to permit the use of more available, cheaper chevy bearings.

IF you are going with stock pistons, of course, disregard the last paragraph.

The aftermarket rods may be stronger but they're not lighter.

Depends on the rods. Whether it's a 2.200" crank, .990" pin For example 7.100" Molnars are about 25 grams lighter than a LY rod. Not to mention the .990" pins are lighter. Along with that the piston compression height is shorter with the longer rod making the piston lighter as well. Lots of options.
Doug

Stock parts for stock rebuilds, anything with aftermarket heads should be getting aftermarket rods. Molnar, K1 or Compstar is my preference for economy parts, but your entry level Eagle, Scat or Ohio crank are all superior to refinished stock stuff, and likely cheaper, depending on local labor rates. S/F....Ken M

Thanks for the info. I have had several members reach out to me with extra parts from their stashes. hope to make a decision this week.

Forget HP limits.
RPM kills rods.

The typical rod failure happens at the top of the exhaust stroke when the crank rips the rod away from the piston.

Compressive failures like bent rods are usually tune related.

Other failures come from rod bolts or bearings but in those cases the rod is just another victim.

In the grand scheme of things is your engine worth the cost of good rods?

Well looks like I'm needing rods again. I was ready to pull the trigger on and Indy/Eagle 440 set up in the big block/race section, but the guy couldn't wait a few days for my machine shop to reply to confirm my combo. What is even worse, I sold my crank, iron heads and intake to get the added funds over the weekend so I could buy his whole head and engine package.

I might have a set of H beam stock 440’length and piston pin size
Please let me look around and see what I have and I’ll get back to you
As soon as I can , thanks Matt

Appreciate that.