The spring weather has got me thinking

I am doing some fixing/tuning up on my 318 two barrel in my 69 coronet 4 door.

The 2 barrell has a tag on it saying it is a remanufactured unit in 2006, but already the gaskets are leaking and it just looks rough.

I plan on putting a gasket kit in it to clean it up, but if it still leaks or is more hassle than it is worth, I was thinking about putting a small 4 bbl on it!

If I decide to do this (probably next winters project) which 4 bbl would be best?

I was thinking a 500 cfm eddy?

any suggestions, comments?

thanks
eight

For an otherwise stock 318, a Holley 4160 vaccuum secondary 600 cfm on a Edlebrock performer intake (2176)or Edelbrock 500 or 600 cfm carb. I would choose the 600 version of either.

Edelbrock Performer intake, I would try Summits new 600 cfm carb for the street, electric choke should be okay although I haven't heard a review on this carb.
I'm toying with doing this to my truck, I picked upo a Summit intake cheap, and think I'll use the 600 carb, I also have a Summit cam & lifter kit for my 318 that I'd add at the same time.

I had an eddy preformer 500 cfm on my 273 that had headers hipo ign. shift kit in tranny, hyd. cam, in my 67 barracuda, it ran Great! and got decent mileage. You could go bigger, but depends on what you want...

are planning to do any thing else to the engine or keep it stock?

When I pull the motor, I plan on a complete regasket set, new oil pump while I am in there (since it sucks to change in the car), and stripping/repainting the engine.

If the heads look good, I will leave them alone, put new valve stem seals on.

It already has dual exhaust, I may change the intake/carb.

The only sure change in all of this, I want to change the distributor to a DUI unit. One wire in, all works better. The current distributor is stock with electronic ignition, but I believe it is getting worn. I have an intermittent miss at idle that sometimes occurs on acceleration. I belive the unit is just worn out.

Since I have to pass emissions here, this electronic distributor upgrade is worth it to me.

Anyway, mostly ideas at this point, I am just exploring options so when I get there I will know what I am up against.


thanks
eight

i to have a 318 cid motor in my 74 satellite sebring i have duel exhaust and i recently installed a eddy performer intake with a eddy 600 cmf 4bbl carb manual choke. works good and it will break the tires lose nicely too.

might check phasing of the reluctor on the dist,was a good post on that recently

I would use the stock cast iron intake off any sb engine with a striped down q-jet

the linkage is easy enuff as mopar used it on stock engines

I would run a points dist with a pertronix point s conversion,works great and gives a little better adv curve to the stock engine,IMO

I would also up grade the points style voltage reg to the soild state replacement one they have for the older cars(I am thinking it has a 1 wire
alt and the points style vr)

a good intake for the 318 is the small port LD4B from eddy...kinda old but works right up there on the LD340 level,,,not much gain going to the eddy airgapRPM one over the LD340 intake,IMO

if it dont have headers yet they are worth the headache to run some long tubes and let the teen breath a little,leting more in means letting more out

and with the 8 3/4 (you had..cough,cough) I would run some 3.55 to 391s in that heavy cruzer

but the 8 3/8 you getting could do the same thing adding a sg

if its a peg leg,I recomend some old skool traction bars on that 4 -door sled,it wheel cut the tire spin down some and it will stiffen up the rear spring pack to help launch it

runwhatya brung

Is this a streeter .....and MPG a concern ?

We do some cruising with this car, its a 4 door so I am not looking to shut down any ricers on main street. I just want it reliable and running well.

I do need to look deeper into the distributor though. The previous owner put an electronic ignition into it, but it doesn't seem to be doing the trick.

any hard acceleration over half throttle predetonates like crazy and lags in power. From my experience it seems to be advancing way too fast....plus it has the miss at idle.

As far as the carb goes, I just don't want to spend extra money on another two barrel. I prefer to get something that is an improvement in air flow.

as the car runs now on the open road, it runs great with the one legger rear. 21-23 mpg has been my best recorded open road run. Can't beat that.

eight.

a stock 318 spread bore cast iron intake and a Demonsizzler prepped thermoquad but I would without a doubt address the pinging 1st. What is your initial/total(w vac plugged),stock dist w stock springs/slots? Fastest temp fix may to back off the initial a bit. Do not let it ping.

no but its in the last couple dasys if you scroll down it called dist phasing or some thing

do a compression test to see if you gots a leaky valve before checking the dist

that could be you miss at idle
an old skool test on the valves was to take a $ bill and stick it at the end of the tail pipe..if it sucks it in and blows it back out poping the $ bill it is in need of a valve job

I would bet the dist is adv to much and pings on light to med throttle

I use a good vac gauge to help set the timming on them

hook it up and adjust till it gets the highest vac reading..back it off one full # then lock it down test drive,a couple wide open throttle blast listening for it pinging..keep backing the timming back out till it just barly pings on a WOT blast

can play with it to see how much it can take adv doing the same thing add till it pings and back off some

this is the most common thing I fix for people after they cant get it tuned up right by ear...allways to much timming

if you run the cheap gas the more time you gotta remove

I got mine set on the edge and it pings at med throttle on cheap gas and no pinging on 92=93 gas

the q-jet will help on mpgs but an eddy is ok and easy to tune like a q-jet also

getting a good tune will help it run better and using the vac gauge will help getting the ping under control

it is hammering the pistons when its pinging and will led to damge in the long run

to much adv of the timming and runing it hard can and will burn a piston right out of a cyl so its worth getting by with less if need be

maybe the balencer has sliped

I would double check TDC i=on the #1 piston and look at the timming marks..should be dead on zero and rotor at the #1 plug tem

I run mine around 10-14 but I have a cam in there and not stock

I would back down to 10 and try it,may be no noticable change and the engine just might like it

or use the vac gauge to see how much vac you got and if its steady or bumpy,IMO

Also, since i am asking stupid questions and also to avoid blowing myself up....

When looking directly at the vacumn advance, using an allen wrench....

clockwise = advancing

counter clockwise = retards

correct? I seem to have confused myself

thanks \

eight

Use a Thermoquad. I wouldnt run a brand new AFB, even if ya gave me one.