I puchased $150 set of advertised as: most popular mounts (part #101-1063) and converted them into a 21st century design.

What I found is misaligned nut and that the 21st century design is a plain rubber mount like anchor you can but at rockauto for 7 bucks, drilled and 2 allen screws screwed in the opposite steel plate, without any nut - juut 2 threads in and then hit with a punch. Passenger mount looks 100% like anchor with "made in korea" inscription filed...

Anyone had success with them? I had a similar "design" mount homemade and 383 sheared the bolts off the plate.

Which bolts are you referring to? The cross bolts or the ones embedded in the mount itself.
The only mount that really needs improving is the L one as it is the one that takes the abuse under forward acceleration. (Motor torques to the R passenger side). I have alwaays just used a 3/4 to 1 inch wide piece of strap steel off the front of the motor straight down to the k member.
For 159.00 I'd send them back if possible

I’ve had the same problem with the mighty mounts. I believe you are 100% correct in your assessment. My biggest complaint it that the steel part that sits on the k frame does not fit properly. I have to grind on it to lay flat on the k frame on one side especially. The last one I used had the nut welded on crooked and just tacked on. The stud that bolts to the upper steel engine bracket is too long and has to be trimmed down as well. Over priced junk is what I saw. I guess the only alternative is that place that rebuilds old mounts with new rubber.

Is there places that do that ? info if possible TYIA

I think it’s called “ then and now automotive.” I’ve seen it posted on here before. I googled it and found a website that does not work well, though. 781-335-8860. There may be other sources as well.

I'll have to check this out , that area code is localish to me, I have a box of original mounts.

exactly.... I requested refund and put my old OEM right mount on the driver side. Mity mount stud is obviously too long, as anchor ones.

see pics - mity mount for driver side has 2 simple bolts screwed thru. and they screw into the steel plate on the other side of rubber. In fact the shearing strength of stock 383 is goint to rip it in 5k miles - like on my pic. this was a similar "design" used by my mechanic. it lasted 5k miles.

On the street I use a solid mount on the left and stock rubber on the right. Never had a problem. Drag cars motor plate front and rear.

A simple piece of strap steel tied to the K-frame will end the torn motor mount issue while being barely noticeable vibration wise. I use to hide them back in the street racing days. We were swapping motors one time trying lift the existing one out. The engine hoist kept lifting the front of the car ???? Duhhh the hidden torque strap was still in place LOL

My E Body allways tore up the one mount. That was untill i went solid. But got old so bought one of the tie downs that Manchini sold.

I just installed a driver side solid mount in my 383 Challenger. I thought there would be some extra vibration. Nope, don't notice any extra vibration in the car. Wish I would have done this years ago. Now my fan and shroud will live longer!

hi
old school here , a piece of 5/16" chain on motor to k frame .
'

Yep.

I use a hardware store turnbuckle from the head to the K member. Cheap, effective, and a polished one looks good. Or they can be painted to be very inconspicuous if desired.

I put bolts through the halves like the ones you got, but I put locking nuts on them, you can see the engine flex in this photo but the mount did NOT break, but I really should put a solid mount on the driver side. The Hilborn Stacks REALLY make it obvious LOL

picture OFF the throttle

thats some serious torque my is stock 383 auto. The manufacturer accepted refund-return so i just need to ship them overseas back to alabama

[quote=willard

thats some serious torque my is stock 383 auto. The manufacturer accepted refund-return so i just need to ship them overseas back to alabama
[/quote]

A gdzie jestes w Polsce?

Haven't used those. The POLY mounts are good if you can find them, (and are expensive.)

I sort of make my own Mighty Mount, but use a single 3/8" grade 8 countersunk screw with the countersink/head on the frame side, and then drilled all the way through the engine mount bracket, with a locknut on that end.
The motor mount end plates are just too thin to work as a nut.

Summit Racing used to sell them