Fresh overhaul, reverse pattern manual valve body. Reverse works fine 1st and second are fine, when you go to shift to third it feels like it wants to lock up any thoughts? It air checked fine.

Why the overhaul?

What did you do inside during the overhaul?

What did you replace during the overhaul?

Sounds like the typical overlap - but why, all guesses until you provide more info.

And, is this on the jack stands or driving the car?

Which brand manual valve body?

A&A valve body no low band apply

It was a core I purchased replaced clutches seals bands has billet front and rear servos from A& A . Front clutch has 5 clutches clearance was .082 rear clutch was .040 band adjustment front and rear was 72 ft lbs back off 2 turns. A& A valve body no low band apply.

This is driving the vehicle

How many servo springs in the front clutch? How is it under heavy accell? A little overlap on 2/3 may save the forward clutch under full power. Since it's all Rick's stuff call and ask him.
Doug

Might need a restrictor orifice in the front clutch passage..

Doug it is the early style servo with 2 springs

John for OP's info, what size is the hole in the restrictor?

I don't think Rick uses a restrictor with his valve body's. That's why I would call and talk to him.
Doug

Following closely.

As mine has a nasty shift to 3rd.

Mine will slam into 3rd gear on normal driving, almost like no springs in the front clutch is the best way I can describe it

If I lay into it and let it shift up itself, its not bad at all.
Plus mine will NOT downshift out of 3rd until darn near a full stop. Sucks when slowing down to make turns onto side streets or pulling up to a light and light turns green as an example, Ive got to where I pull it down to 2nd manually then shift back up once turn is completed

ps, Ive talked to the guy who built it 25 years ago and he isnt sure what was done to it back then

.090"-.120" usually works.